249 transfer case bearings

Leaking by axles or input shaft (driveshaft),if it is the pinion change the seal, make a dot mark with a punch on the nut and the pinion before removing the yoke to tight it at the same place, unless you do that you will burn the bearing it hapen to me one time

Here's what Chilton has to say on assembling the main shaft.
1.assemble 2nd gear, from rear of main shaft, with hub toward rear.
2.Install 1-2 synchronizer ring , with clutch taper to rear, together with a blocker ring on each side so their keyways line up with the clutch keys. Some units will have a snap ring to go on now or some units will have a 1st gear spacer sleeve to go on.
3. Install 1st gear with hub toward front and 1st gear thrust washer.
4.Press rear main bearing onto shaft being sure to seat it firmly. The diagram shows a piece of 1 and 5/8 ID pipe used to do this.
5. Install correct snap ring in groove on mainshaft behind rear bearing. Max gap between snap ring and rear face of bearing is 0"-.005".
6.Install 3rd gear, hub to front, and synchronizing ring, notches to front.
7. Install 3-4 clutch assembly with taper and hub to front. Make sure keys in hub correspond to notches in 3rd gear synchronizer.
8.Install snap ring on mainshaft with ends of snap ring behind spline teeth.
9.Install rear bearing retainer. Spread snap ring in plate to allow plate to drop around main bearing and press on end of mainshaft until snap ring engages groove on bearing.
10. Install reverse gear with collar to rear.
11. Press speedometer gear drive on mainshaft. From the inside face of the speedometer drive to the inside face of the rear bearing retainer should be 4 and 5/16".

Use white paint, chalk or a scribe to mark the relationship of the front U joint to the front diferential pinion yoke. Mark the relationship of the rear U joint flange to the transfer case companion flange. Unbolt the front end of the drive shaft from the pinion yoke and the rear end from the transfer case companion flange and remove the drive shaft from the vehicle.
hope thei info helps.
sammyc47

Likely either the shaft has a wear scar on it that's too deep for even a new seal to compensate for or the bearing that supports the shaft is worn. Other possibility is that the same tech is installing it dry every time he replaces it....you need to put grease on the seal lip so it does not self-destruct before the normal lube can reach it.

The mode fork inside the transfer case has a weak or broken spring. This is allowing the fork to engage the mainshaft, causing it to place it in 4x4 drive. To repair this the transfer case will need to be replaced. To solve this issue temperarly, you can remove the front drive shaft to keep it from locking the front wheels, but you most likely will hear a grinding noise from time to time while driving, and would still need to address the mode fork issue.

You know for a fact no power is being sent to the front axle? This transfer case only sends power to the front axle when the rear axle is slipping. Are there any unusual noises in the front axle?

If it is the transfer case, replacing it is not too big of a deal. If you are the least bit confident of your abilities, then you can do it yourself. I believe you have the NP242 transfer case, but I could be wrong. There will be a tag on the back side of the case, facing the rear axle, to the left of the drive shaft. On that tag, it will tell you which case you have. You can either have yours rebuilt, or buy a replacement either new or used.

To remove the t-case, first drain the fluid. Next remove the front driveshaft by removing the four bolts holding the u-joint in place. Then remove the rear drive shaft by doing the same as the front driveshaft, only this time it's at the rear differential. Once the drive shaft is free, support the full weight of the driveshaft, not that heavy, and pull it out of the t-case and set aside. Disconnect the shifter linkage and wiring harness. Next, remove the bolts that connect the t-case to the t-case cross member. Lift slightly and support the tranny/t-case assembly and remove the cross member. The t-case isn't very heavy, but you don't want it falling on your head, so remember to support it as you remove the bolts that connect it to the rear of the tranny. Once you bring it out from under the Jeep, and it's rebuilt or you have another unit to replace it, installation is the reverse of removal. Just remember to refill the t-case with the proper fluid.

Check the front differential for proper spacing inside, also the bearings. Then check the homocinetic joint right behind the front diff. on the drive shaft. If all of them are fine, open the oil screw at the transfer case, drain the oil and check if there are some metal in it. After draining the oil out, use a flat screw driver, insert it into the transfer case (be careful!!) to locate the drive chain. check if there she is very loose ( if you can slide the chain more than 1/2" it need to be replaced). To rule out the transfer case, disconnect the rear drice shaft (U-Joint on rear diff. and then slide them out of the case), disconnect the front drice shaft right on the transfer case (U-Joint), disconnect the shifter and any wiring you find on the case, remove the bolts from the chassie and then remoce the bolts between the case and the auto transmission and slide the case backward till you have it in your hand. Install a new or rebuilt one the same way back, fill it with auto trasmssion fluid as told in the user manual. Do not overfill the case and do not use other fluid as in the user/service manual.

duse the howl go away when you trun a conner ?if it duse its a wheel bearn. as for the squeak its hard to pin point. try finding some one how duse mud run they would be ableto help you with the howl noise. have a nice day

If it doesn't move forward or backward, then the pump or torque converter are likely bad. First put it in drive with the rear wheels up. Pull out the speed sensor in the overdrive unit( rear housing on the trans) and look in the hole to see if the output shaft is turning. This will tell you if this is a trans problem or a transfer case problem. If it is turning but the rear drive shaft isn't, inspect the transfer case. If the output shaft isn't turning, hook up a pressure gauge to the transmission and check for line pressure. If line pressure is low, replace the pump. If line pressure is good, replace the torque converter.

If you removed the pinion and only replaced one of the bearings that was a mistake. You need to replace both at the same time. Also since it is a Dana differential you should have replace the crush sleeve also as this set the correct preload on the pinion bearings.