95 f-350 brake pedal fade

Once you have bled the air from the brake lines,clamp off the front brake hoses carefully.Does the pedal feel better now?
Then the pad /caliper fit is allowing too much play.Is the pedal the same?Then clamp the rear hose and try the pedal.Is it fine with the rear hose clamped?If so we now know the problem is at the rear brakes.One common low pedal rear brake cause is brake shoes that do not fit the drums.Remove the drums and look at the shoes,are they showing contact wear fully or just in the middle of the shoe?Remove a shoe and place it in the drum.Can you rock the shoe against the drum surface?Once drums have been resurfaced,the shoes will not fit fully against the drum allowing the shoe the flex when applying pressure to it and this can easily create a low soft brake pedal. Of course rear brake adjustment must be correct once brake shoe contact is correct.To correct brake shoe contact,have your shoes re arc-ed to fit resurfaced drums or install new drums.Don't overlook brake master cyl /brake pedal push rod adjustment too.

Lining thickness is dependent on a few factors. A. Is your lining bonded to the shoe or pad, or is it Rivited to the shoe or pad? B. What is the application? Lining thickness is determined ultimatley by the manufacturer. Generally speaking on Automotive and light truck applications new lining for brake shoes is between 6/32nds and 12/32nds of an inch. Add a couple 32nds if rivited. On front brake pads the lining is much thicker when new. On average a new brake pad can have lining between 10/32nds to 18/32nds. Pads are in need of replacement when bonded lining has worn to 2/32nd and rivited lining has worn to 3/32nds since the rivet head can come in contact with the disc brake rotor or drum at 1/32nds. Lining can also break free from the pad or shoe when they get that low due to rotor or drum out-of-round. This can cause lining to break free from the pad or shoe and cause dmage to the drum or rotor surface. When replacing brakes, its always good to have drums or rotors machined or replaced. For rotors, there are three specs to take into consideration. 1. Minimium machining thickness. If rotors are machined beyond their reccomended minimium machining they will warp due to heat. This warping will eventually lead to brake pedal pulsation. 2. Run-out; Run-out is measured using a dial micrometer and usually .003 to .005 of an inch is considered excessive. 3. Material Thickness Variation; or parralleism is measure with a micrometer. .0003 to .0005 ten thousandths of an inch is considered excessive. It is extremly hard to find a rotor that will pass all three of these measurements. If someone tells you the rotors do not need to be machined because they "look good", don't trust them because they don't know what they are talking about. Rotor condition can not be determined by the human eye. Drums have a maximium diameter they can not exceed, as well as an out-of-round specification as well. A good brake job will always have drums and rotors either machined or replaced. Money can be saved if they can be machined as it it cheaper to machine than replace.

Did you clean the protective covering off the drums and rotors before installing ? Is it possible there is a film of oil on them ?

It can be issue with master cylinder or the problem is there is still some air there in the system that has to be bleed. Or else the parts replaced are not aligned properly/.I suggest everything back.

There are few help links mentioned below to troubleshoot the issue.

Click the link below and follow its procedure: -----

All types of brake problems and repairs

http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/11/abs-and-service-light-comes-on.html

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Brake Fade Issue?

http://whoisbyme.blogspot.in/2012/07/brake-fade-issue.html

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Brake System Troubleshooting?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/11/brake-system-troubleshooting.html

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Car Brake lines have no pressure?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/car-brake-lines-have-no-pressure.html

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Car Brakes Dragging?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/12/car-brakes-dragging.html

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Car Brakes grabbing?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/12/car-brakes-grabbing.html

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Car Brakes Making Noise?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/12/car-brakes-making-noise.html

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Car Brakes Pulling?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/12/car-brakes-pulling.html

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Pulsating Brake Pedal?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/12/pulsating-brake-pedal.html

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Spongy brake pedal?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/12/spongy-brake-pedal.html

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Hard Brake Pedal?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/12/hard-brake-pedal.html

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Fading Sinking Brake pedal?

http://whoisbyme.blogspot.in/2012/06/fading-sinking-brake-pedal.html

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Feels Like Brake pedal Pulsating

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.in/2012/06/feels-like-brake-pedal-pulsating.html

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What is Brake Drum Bar?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.in/2012/02/what-is-brake-drum-bar.html

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ABS light stays on but brakes work fine?

http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/11/abs-light-stays-on-but-brakes-work-fine.html

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Vibrations while braking On Chevrolet Van?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/04/vibrations-while-braking-on-chevrolet.html

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Dragging brakes?

http://howtobyme.blogspot.in/2012/03/dragging-brakes.html

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Brake pedal stuck?

http://howtobyme.blogspot.in/2012/03/brake-pedal-stuck.html

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After replacing brake rotors and pads, brake pedal remains on floor?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/after-replacing-brake-rotors-and-pads.html

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How to replace Brake Power Booster?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.in/2012/02/how-to-replace-brake-power-booster.html

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1997 Chevy Tahoe Brake lights not working?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/1997-chevy-tahoe-brake-lights-not.html

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How to service Drum brakes?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.in/2012/02/how-to-service-drum-brakes.html

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What type of problems usually noticed on Drum brakes?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.in/2012/02/what-type-of-problems-usually-noticed.html

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How to test Drum Brakes?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.in/2012/02/how-to-test-drum-brakes.html

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Brake Bleeder Screw Function?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.in/2012/02/brake-bleeder-screw-function.html

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Toyota Tundra: Parts diagram to replace Brake Drums?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/06/toyota-tundra-parts-diagram-to-replace.html

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Squeak and grinding sound is heard when brakes are applied?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/squeak-and-grinding-sound-is-heard-when.html

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Brake Pads Inspection on Acura Integra?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.in/2011/11/brake-pads-inspection-on-acura-integra.html

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How to remove Brake Pads on Acura Integra?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.in/2011/11/how-to-remove-brake-pads-on-acura.html

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How to remove Brake Disc Rotor on Acura Integra?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.in/2011/11/how-to-remove-brake-disc-rotor-on-acura.html

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Brake Caliper OVERHAUL on Acura Integra?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.in/2011/11/brake-caliper-overhaul-on-acura-integra.html

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How to remove Brake Caliper on Acura Integra?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.in/2011/11/how-to-remove-brake-caliper-on-acura.html

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How to remove Parking Brake shoes on Acura Integra?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.in/2011/11/how-to-remove-parking-brake-shoes-on.html

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How to remove Parking Brake Cable on Acura Integra?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.in/2011/11/how-to-remove-parking-brake-cable-on.html

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Brake pedal is pulsating and vibrating?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2012/01/brake-pedal-is-pulsating-and-vibrating.html

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2002 Ford Windstar: Brake Warning Light ON dash?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.in/2012/06/2002-ford-windstar-brake-warning-light.html

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These details will help.

Thanks.

keep bleeding the system,if u didnt bench bleed the master cylinder,you will need to do that.Its a must

I would go with not bled correctly

The booster should hold up with a hard pedal until
you start the engine, then vacuum causes it to move
down when pressing on the brake

How to replace the rear brake pads on a 1995 through 2001 Ford Explorer The system utilizes a drum-in-hat type rear brake rotor. The integral drum allows the use of a drum-and-shoe type parking brake system. All other components are similar to their front disc brake components Remove the two bolts on either side of the brake hose with the rubber boots. Do not remove the four bolts where the axle ties in. The two bolts to be removed require a 10mm socket/wrench. Loosen the pads from the caliper Rotor Removal In order to take the rotors off (replace with new or have them machined), it is best to loosen the emergency brake shoes. To do this, behind the rotors, in the back there is a rubber plug, remove that and you can use a screw driver to engage the teeth of the adjusting screw, turn it clockwise to loosen, usually 10-20 teeth. Usually this means turn it downward. After this, it may still be difficult to get the rotors off without tapping them. Use a rubber mallet and hit them from behind. Before really whacking the rotor, make sure you have loosened the adjusting screw enough. It may take heavy swings of the rubber hammer to do this. It will eventually break loose. Parking Brake You might want to check the parking brake while you are here. To remove:

• Remove the rear disc brake rotor.

• Remove the outboard return spring.

• Remove the adjusting screw spring.

• Remove the rear brake shoe hold-down spring and pin.

• Remove the brake shoe adjusting screw and nut.

• Remove the front brake shoe hold-down spring and pin.

• Remove both parking brake shoes and the inboard return spring.

• Check the parking brake lever for excessive wear and replace as necessary.

To install:

• Position the front parking brake shoe to the backing plate and install the hold-down pin and spring.

• Install the rear parking brake shoe with the inboard return spring.

• Position the brake shoe adjuster screw and nut on the shoes and install the rear shoe hold-down pin and spring.

• Install the brake shoe adjuster spring.

• Install the outboard return spring.

• Adjust the parking brake shoes and install the rotor, caliper and wheel.

• Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).

ADJUSTMENT

• Measure the inside of the drum portion of the rear brake rotor

• Remove the rear disc brake rotor.

• Using Brake Adjustment Gauge D81L-1103-A or equivalent, measure the inside diameter of the drum portion of the rear disc brake rotor.

• Subtract 0.020 in. (0.508mm) from the first measurement, adjust the brake shoes to that size

• Adjust the parking brake adjuster screw until the outside diameter of the parking brake shoes measures 0.020 in. (0.508mm) less than the drum measurement.

• Install the rear disc brake rotor.

Reassembly Reassembly is easy. Put new or machined rotors back on by sliding them over the lugs (they should slide on easily.) Loosen bleeder valve (having a catch bottle handy is good). Push calipers in slowly (using a c-clamp or large channel lock pliers), close bleeder valve. Put on pads. Lubricate metal clips with small amount of anti-seize. Re-adjust the emergency brake by turning the opposite direction from loosening. Refill the brake master cylinder

rotors are out of round have front or rear rotors/drums machined on a lathe and check condition of pads/shoes check calipers lube and clean and replace all worn parts

Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.

You probably need to surface the rotors and the drums. I have gotten brand new rotors that were so warped that they were below min. thickness (not kidding) after surfacing them. Needless to say, they went back to the parts store. So now I surface every new rotor that I install. Happens to rotors way more than drums, but have hade a couple of drums that were warped when new so I check them before installing them. Good luck. Hope this helps.