How to replace head lights on a 2008 cadilac dts

Is the head lifting as if it wants to come free or is it sat solid and refusing to move? If it isn't moving at all it is likely you've missed a stud. Some engines need you to remove both manifolds as some of the lower mount bolts can be in the cylinder block and the upper bolts in the cylinder head.
If the head is moving it could just be a 'sticky' head gasket. Sometimes engine oil and coolant can act like a glue if it gets into the gasket area especially if the head gasket has blown. Try this. Take a small pry bar and cover the tip with a rag to prevent scratching the face of the head and block. Working evenly all the way around the head gasket joint, every few centimetres GENTLY lever the the head upwards. If it is a sticky joint it will suddenly 'let go'.
I would suggest refitting 2 or 3 head bolts a few turns so they are loose. This will stop the head moving too much when it does come free.

It could be the other end of the bolt that is the issue. Try this.
- Using a blunt chisel or a short piece of metal bar as a drift Whack the bolt head two or three times. This can shock the threads loose.
- Use a specialist 'Extractor' socket that bites into the head of the bolt to give better grip as you turn it.
- Another method is to use a longer lever to move the bolt. Using a tight fitting socket and using a longer ratchet or a short power bar. Turn the bolt a quarter to half a turn to 'crack' the bolt loose. Then use a ratchet to remove it the rest of way.

Part 1 of 3: Getting to the head bolts

Materials Needed

• Eye protection
• Gloves
• Oil and coolant drain
• Parts cleaner or brake cleaner
• Shop rags
• Socket set and ratchet1: Drain the oil and coolant. Put on your eye protection and gloves and drain the oilfrom the vehicle.
  Make sure the vehicle can not be started by removing the negative cable from the battery. Next the coolant will need to be drained so it does not leak when the head bolts are loosened.
  Step 2: Clean valve cover. Use some of the parts cleaner or brake cleaner to clean up the valve cover and as much of the cylinder head as is reasonable.Remove valve cover. If necessary, remove other components to make the valve covers accessible, and start removing the bolts from the valve cover.
  Once all bolts are removed carefully removed the valve cover from the cylinder head. If any valve cover gasket material remains, remove it at this time and clean any excess oil from the edges. Set the valve cover aside carefully as it will be reused with a new gasket once repairs are completed.

  Part 2 of 3: Pushrod engine head bolt removal

  Materials Needed
  
  • Head bolt socket (if needed)
  • Numbered cardboard
  • Rubber hammer
  • Socket set and ratchetStep 1: Rocker arm and rocker removal. A pushrod engine has long pushrods that protrude through the cylinder head and attach to the rocker rail.
    The rocket arm will need to be loosened first. Many manufactures have a specific sequence for removal of the rocker arm bolts. After the rocker arm is removed, the rockers will be unbolted.
    Set all rocker arms aside in the order they were removed as they should go back to the cylinder they were removed from.Step 2: Remove the pushrods. Remove the pushrods one at a time from the cylinder head.
    Put them into a numbered piece of cardboard as the pushrods will go back into the same slot they came from.Step 3: Loosen head bolts. Use the ratchet begin to break the cylinder head bolts loose.
    Each bolt will be loosened but not removed. Loosen all of the bolts before removing any of the the bolts all the way.
    Step 4: Remove the bolts. Place each bolt through a numbered hole in the cardboard in case the head bolts are different lengths so they can be installed back into the proper hole.
    The bolts may require a special socket depending on the manufacture.
    Step 5: Lift off the cylinder head. Once all bolts are removed, lift up on the cylinder headgently; the head should come free easilyIf the cylinder head sticks, lightly use a dead blow or rubber mallet to tap the cylinder head to be able to remove it. Set to the side in a safe area.
    
    • Warning: Cylinder head bolts have a specific sequence that is used when removing them. Consult the manufacturer's specifications for the proper removal sequence for the engine being worked on.

    Part 3 of 3: Overhead cam head bolt removal

    Material Needed
    
    • Socket set and ratchetStep 1: Remove the timing cover. The timing cover will need to be removed to gain access to the timing belt or chain.
      This is necessary because the cam shaft sits in the cylinder head and is attached to the crankshaft with either a timing belt or timing chain.
      Step 2: Time the engine to remove the belt. The engine will need to be timed to avoid damage when the timing belt is removed.
      Each engine is different and will have its own procedures to time. There should be marks on the camshaft and crankshaft that will be aligned to set the timing at top dead center (TDC)Step 3: Remove the timing belt. The timing belt tensioner will be removed or released to take the tension off the belt.
      Once the belt is loosened, it should be able to be slipped of the camshaft in the cylinder head.Step 4: Remove the head bolts. Every engine will have its own procedures for the order that the head bolts are removed or tightened.
      Loosen head bolts ¼ turn each in the order specified, which may require a special socket. Once all the bolts have been loosened they may be removed one at a time. The bolts must be organized or marked in case they are different lengths.
      Step 5: Remove the cylinder head. Once all the bolts are removed, the cylinder head may be removed from the engine. If it is stuck, tap lightly on the side of the head with a rubber hammer to loosen the cylinder head.
      
      • Warning: Most head bolts are torque-to-yield. These head bolts are single use only and once removed must be replaced. Torque-to-yield head bolts stretch when they are torqued to allow them to tighten properly and repeated application can cause the head bolt to break.
      Removing the head bolts can seem like a daunting process

Could be as simple as a bad relay. I would start by replacing it with a known good one of the same type.

This is the info for the 2.8d CRDI 2008-11 engine code ENS (51C)

1 Replace Head Bolts
2 Stage 1 Tighten to15 Nm
3 Stage 2 Tighten to 30 Nm
4 Stage 3 Tighten to 85deg
5 Stage 4 Tighten to 85 deg
6 Stage 5 Tighten to 85 deg

Sequence


If it is the 01-08 model 2.8 CRD engine code R2816K4 then it is this one
Stage 1 - Bolts 1 -18 = 30 Nm
Stage 2 - Bolts 1 -10 = 75 deg
Stage 3 - Bolts 11 - 18 = 50 deg
Stage 4 - Bolts 1 - 18 - 75 deg

Sequence


If it is the Grand Cherokee then they fit 3.0 CRD, 4.7, 5.7 and the 6.1 SRT-8 engines. I can supply the details if needed. I hope that helps you.

The center head Or Plenium is basically easy to do. First disconnect the negative batter cable, open gas cap on the gas tank. After about 15 mins disconnect the fuel lines. Take the star sockets and remove the 4 bots off the center vaccum ports. Carefuly place these back towards the fire wall. secure with a zip tie. Loosten the plenium bolts and take the top off and the loosen the bottom removing the o rings, replace them once you goo to reinstall plenium. hope this helps. PS Take some pictures so you know how everything goes back to gether.

DeVille, Eldorado, Seville 1999-2005

• REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Cylinder Head

Print

Removal & Installation

Left Side

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   Negative battery cable Exhaust manifold Alternator Water crossover Intake manifold Valve cover Timing cover Secondary camshaft drive chain Power steering return hose retaining bolt from the cylinder head 3 M6 external drive bolts from the front portion of the cylinder head 10 M11 internal drive cylinder head bolts Cylinder head and gasket.
   
5. Clean the head mating surfaces.

To install:

Fig. Left cylinder head bolt torque sequence-4.6L engine

1. Install the cylinder head with a new gasket. Lubricate the bolts with engine oil prior to installation.
2. Torque the M11 bolts in sequence as follows:
   1. Step 1: 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm), plus an additional 70 degrees
   2. Step 2: Turn an additional 60 degrees
   3. Step 3: Turn an additional 60 degrees (total 190 degrees)
   
   
3. Torque the M6 bolts to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm)
4. Install or connect the following:
   
   Power steering return hose retaining bolt to the cylinder head and tighten to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) Secondary camshaft drive chain Timing cover Valve cover Intake manifold Water crossover Exhaust manifold Negative battery cable
   
5. Change the oil and filter.
6. Fill the cooling system.

Right Side

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   Negative battery cable Exhaust manifold Water crossover Intake manifold Valve cover Timing cover Secondary camshaft drive chain Electrical connector from the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor Nut attaching the coil cassette ground wire to the cylinder head Bolt attaching the exhaust crossover pipe to the cylinder head Bolt attaching the right transaxle mount bracket to the cylinder head Bolt attaching the rear transaxle brace to the transaxle Nuts attaching the rear transaxle brace to the cylinder head Rear transaxle brace 3 M6 external drive bolts from the front portion of the cylinder head 10 M11 internal drive cylinder head bolts Cylinder head and gasket
   
5. Clean the head mating surfaces.

To install:

Fig. Right cylinder head bolt torque sequence- 4.6L engine

1. Install the cylinder head with a new gasket. Lubricate the bolts with engine oil prior to installation.
2. Torque the M11 bolts in sequence as follows:
   1. Step 1: 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm), plus an additional 70 degrees.
   2. Step 2: Turn an additional 60 degrees.
   3. Step 3: Turn an additional 60 degrees (total 190 degrees).
   
   
3. Torque the M6 bolts to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
4. Install or connect the following:
   
   Rear transaxle brace over the studs located at the rear of the right cylinder head Nuts attaching the rear transaxle brace to the cylinder head, loosely Bolts attaching the rear transaxle braces to the transaxle and tighten to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) Nuts attaching the rear transaxle brace to the cylinder head and tighten 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) Electrical connector to the ECT sensor Bolt attaching the exhaust crossover pipe to the cylinder head and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) Nut attaching the coil cassette ground wire to the cylinder head and tighten to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) Secondary camshaft drive chain Timing cover Valve cover Intake manifold Water crossover Exhaust manifold Negative battery cable
   
5. Change the oil and filter.
6. Fill the cooling system.

There should be a 10mm bolt holding a clip down (bent over metal attached to bolt you just undid) Remove that bolt which is a rod clip and pull striaght up until you feel the housing come loose, then starting from the outside corner, gently pull the housing out. Only need to remove the one bolt.

Please rate if this helps you.

Removal and Installation

1. Remove the radiator grille. For additional information, refer to Section 501-08.

1. NOTE: There is a blind metal snap located on the lower outboard side of the headlamp assembly that is disengaged by pulling upwards on the headlamp assembly.
   Remove the 3 bolts and the headlamp assembly.
   • Disconnect the electrical connectors.

1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
   • If necessary, adjust the headlamps. For additional information, refer to Headlamp Adjustment in this section.

Headlamp Assembly Printable View (174 KB)
Item Part Number Description 1 W707594 Headlamp assembly bolts (3 required) 2 13008 Headlamp assembly 3 - Headlamp assembly electrical connectors (part of 14290)

lower the sub fram slightly then drop off front pipe to manifold bots
remove drive shaft housing bolts then the lower air con bolts remove lower sump
then remove oil pump and you should be able to rmove sump