Battery indicator light and the hibeam indicator light are on at all times ignition off in park,this drains the battery in 2/3 days
The battery indicator light flickers and sometimes it goes out the period, of time its out varies constantly the blue hibeam light looks like its at reduced voltage due to its brightness ,or lack of
I disconnected the neg battery cable . I put a 12vdc test light between the neg battery post and the neg, battery cable the test light ,lights .I pulled individual fuses and relays in the fuse panel under the hood one at a time the light stays on ,I pulled the gage panel fuse the test light stays on.I pulled the fuses one at a time in the fuse panel on the side of the dash ,the light stays on .The light for the battery indicator and hibeam indicator lights are still on ( they went out when I pulled the gage fuse),I installed a new battery and it went dead in 2 1/2 days ! I'm at a total loss where to look ,HELP PLEASE !!!!!!!!!I disconnected the neg battery cable . I put a 12vdc test light between the neg battery post and the neg, battery cable the test light ,lights .I pulled individual fuses and relays in the fuse panel under the hood one at a time the light stays on ,I pulled the gage panel fuse the test light stays on.I pulled the fuses one at a time in the fuse panel on the side of the dash ,the light stays on .The light for the battery indicator and hibeam indicator lights are still on ( they went out when I pulled the gage fuse),I installed a new battery and it went dead in 2 1/2 days ! I'm at a total loss where to look ,HELP PLEASE !!!!!!!!!
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Hi jeremy,good thought on the stuck relay but unfortunately I still have the problem,looking more like a gage cluster replacement ,Geez i hope not it will stay a problem if thats the case thanks againHi jeremy,good thought on the stuck relay but unfortunately I still have the problem,looking more like a gage cluster replacement ,Geez i hope not it will stay a problem if thats the case thanks again
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limited info generic --test the switch probable failed but since no model this link is the owners manual for e150 and pages 128 --129 tell which fuses are for headlights and multi switch https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/99ecoog1e.pdf
ah double posted and added that key word, PARKED
no matter, the alternator does nothing parked, sorry.
this i called phantom drains.
battery charged before bed time, parked.
next morning its not 12.6vdc but 12.0, that is called battery discharge.
A possibility is an ignition fuse has blown when the radio was removed. Does the battery light light up when the ignition is turned on. The alternator needs that light to energise and charge, (without it you just run the battery flat), failing that charge the battery, connect an amp meter in series, with every thing switched off, should have a reading of about 0.5 amps (Time clock). If above 2amp that is what is draining the battery. Watch meter and pull fuses one at a time, when the reading drops, that is the circuit/equipment that's causing the trouble.
Hello Vicky... Your Malibu has what is known as a parasitic drain...It could be a stuck relay, trunk light staying on, or a direct short circuit.Something in the electrical circuit is not turning off when then ignition switch is turned off.. You will need to perform a parasitic draw test to determine the cause and correct the problem to keep the battery from draining,
Well even a new battery can be drained down is you have something on all the time, in about an hour.
So start with checking for a drain. Remove the battery cables in order to clean and grease them. Then only put one on. With everything off if you jump the gap of the cable that is off to the battery, with a test light, is should not light up. If it does, then you have a constant drain that will kill a batter over night. You have to check for things like interior light, and disconnect everything, one at a time, to pin it down.
If you don't have a drain, then the next thing is to check continuity. When you turn the ignition on, first the dash indicators come on. The battery should read 12.5 volts. Then you try to crank it. The voltage should drop to 10 while cranking, and come back up after. If it does not drop to 10, the starter is blocked and not drawing. It could be the neutral safety switch, so try in neutral instead of park. It could also be the ignition switch. Use a test light to see of the small wire plugged into the starter solenoid (the small cylinder on top of the starter), get power when keyed to starter? If it does not, then ignition switch or neutral safety switch. If yes, then starter solenoid is probably bad. But try turning the engine over at the alternator by hand or wrench, and try again. Could be binding between starter and drive plate.
Once you get it started, then rev the engine up and verify alternator goes over 14 volts, to recharge battery. Otherwise battery will go dead in a day.
something draining the battery .check blower motor sometimes keeps running even when indicating it is off .remove battery terminal and tap against the terminal to see if there any large sparks.if they are . remove fuses one by one as u test till the spark is not there .find out what links are used on that link and disconect one by one when the fuse is on and test if the large spark is still there
Depends on how long he was trying to program the TPMS. With the engine not running and the ignition keys on, the day time running lights are on and the head lights are draining the battery. Next time your going to have the ignition keys on for a long period of time with out the engine running, set your parking brakes. Setting your parking brakes will keep your Day time running lights from coming on.
No, corrosion will not cause a battery to drain, even if the corrosion is on the terminals. Several factors can cause battery drain, I would first have the battery tested to see if the battery it self is not bad. If the battery is good, then the most common is a short. All most all new cars have a certain amount of drain,(measured in milivolts) this drain is for clocks and computer memory's, and it would take several days of a vehicle sitting for the battery to be drained. Don't immediately assume you have a problem if you see 2-6 milivolts of drain on a battery with the key out, now if your battery is being drained after being parked over night, you have a problem. The easiest way to pin down the problem short is to disconnect your positive battery cable from the battery, take a 12 volt test light and clamp one end to the positive cable, and hold the probe to the positive post. Now if you have a short the light will come on. Have someone help you by pulling the fuses one at a time. If when a fuse is pulled the light goes out you have isolated the short to that system. If you pulled all the fuses and the light never went out try disconnecting all the wires from the alternator, 9 times outta 10 do this will let you know where your short is. If the system is not critical like power locks some people just leave the fuse out.
I disconnected the neg battery cable . I put a 12vdc test light between the neg battery post and the neg, battery cable the test light ,lights .I pulled individual fuses and relays in the fuse panel under the hood one at a time the light stays on ,I pulled the gage panel fuse the test light stays on.I pulled the fuses one at a time in the fuse panel on the side of the dash ,the light stays on .The light for the battery indicator and hibeam indicator lights are still on ( they went out when I pulled the gage fuse),I installed a new battery and it went dead in 2 1/2 days ! I'm at a total loss where to look ,HELP PLEASE !!!!!!!!!
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