2011 Dodge Caravan. Ran into a metal wheelchair ramp rain. Drove back - dislodged - the black trim insert near the bottom of the plastic bumper cover. That black plastic thing has to be just put back on its clips - it isn't damaged. Body shop said $1000. Bumper has to come off, they say. I can't afford the grand. Doing it myself - taking off the bumper. Obviously, there's a fastener outboard of the headlight where bumper cover attached to fender front. Can't get access. Tried to remove headlight, can't manage that either. Do you know how to get the bumper cover off my Caravan?

No, there was a body change in 2011. 2011 to 2018 will interchange with a 2013 as far as the hood. 2011 to 2014 for the bumper.

Step by step instructions follow with pictures.

Using a plastic trim tool, remove the aluminum piece on the door handle and the two bolts underneath. (T15 I believe.)
: Using same trim tool, remove the plastic trim behind door handle and remove screw using same T15 as before.
Step 3: Same trim tool again, remove the door panel, bottom to top and lift off of the window channel. Watch for the metal clips to fall. Some will. Two go on the door panel and two go on the door itself.

I recently purchased a 2008 BT50 dual cab then 2 days later we had 500mm of rain and of course it leaked :( I had about 80mm of water on the drivers side floor and 30mm on the passenger side floor. I stripped the interior out of the car and started hosing the outside and watching where it was coming in. I took all the windscreen surrounds off and the cowl panel off below the screen there was no water coming in from that area. I had taken the gutter seals off but left the door seals on so the water was running down around the outside of the seals (with the door shut) and out at the bottom. From inside near the drivers side kick panel I could see water coming through seams in the metal work and when I took the door seal rubber off the body on the car I could see water was getting in at the top of the door seal rubber going down the front inside edge of the rubber and getting in through the seam where the rubber push's onto the body of the car (first problem). I took all the door seal rubbers off and run a bead of non corrosive silicon inside the cavity and pushed them back on. It seemed to have fixed the problem I dried the carpet and put it back together..Two weeks later we got another 325mm of rain and it leaked again :( not near as bad this time. Looking at the bottom of the door where the door trim meets the door I could see water coming from behind the trim and then into the car. I took the door trims off and could see water gets in when the window is up (all cars do) and is supposed to run out the drain holes in the bottom of the door but the water was dripping and splashing up to the back side of the door trim against the sheet of plastic that is supposed to seal against the door with the black mastic (it doesn't) and running straight into the car. I cut some plastic and siliconed them onto each opening on the inside of the door frame and then put the factory piece of plastic on as well (properley this time) as a backup.
So far so good.

Can you take the van to a local family owned shop near by that could hook them up for you reasonably? Google the manufacture and contact them or take it too a dodge garage? The wiring from the motor should be very basic, like 1-3 wires and not costly or time consuming to hook back up. What brand lift do you have? The more info you give us, the more help we can be!

On the inside trim, you can remove screws (these screws may be covered by filler pieces or may be visible, or they may require you pry a plastic piece off that covers the screws) that are by the door handle, arm rest, under door and side of door and then gently pull back on the panel as there will also be retaining clips attached and you don't want to break them. You'll need to lift the door panel upwards in order to get it off the window ledge. Then you'll need to manipulate the panel and disconnect the door handle linkage from the door handle and disconnect any other wiring that may be attached to the door. Then you need to pull back the weather seal and then you can disconnect the screws and clips that secure the outside trim to the door.

Here's some instructions for removing bumper and headlights.

E-Class W211 front bumper removal (standard body style).

Tools needed:
- Automotive wheel ramps (Rhino ramps from Autozone).
- 1/4" drive socket set with 8mm and 10mm sockets.
- #20 torx bit.
- Floor jack, optional but useful.
- Flat blade screwdriver.

Instructions for bumper removal:

1) Turn front wheels full right to remove push-pin fastener at lower front corner of left wheel well plastic splash guard. It's difficult to remove this fastener once the car is up on the wheel ramps.

2) Turn front wheels full left to remove push-pin fastener at lower front corner of right wheel well plastic splash guard.

3) Drive car up on wheel ramps. Block rear tires. Open hood.

4) Remove lower mesh plastic grille. There are five attachment points on the top edge of the grille. You can get to three of them with your hand by reaching between the radiator and the back side of the grille. The two outer ones can be released with a screwdriver also reaching in between the grille and radiator. Once the plastic tabs are released, you can remove the grille by pulling it out from the front of the car.

5) Remove the plastic panel located immediately behind the bumper from the bottom of the engine compartment. This panel is held in place with nine sheet metal screws with a 8mm hex head. Five screws are on the bottom of the car and there are two screws in each wheel well at the inner lower edge. After removing all nine screws you can work the panel free.

6) Disconnect the cable from each fog light and remove both fog lights. They are held in place by two sheet metal screws with a #20 torx head.

7) Remove the side marker bulbs. The one on the passenger side turns clockwise to remove and the one on the driver side turns counter-clockwise.

8) Remove the temperature sensor from its socket on the driver side.

9) If you have a floor jack, raise the car at the jack point on the cross member below the engine. You do not want to raise it off the wheel ramps. But it helps to have more clearance above the tires to work in the front wheel wells.

10) Remove three of the plastic nuts holding the forward half of the plastic wheel well liner in place. It's not necessary to remove the plastic liner. You just need to loosen it up so that you can pull it away from the fender to gain access to the screw and bracket securing the bumper to the fender.

11) Pull back the wheel well liner and remove the sheet metal screw from the rear end of the metal bracket . There is only one sheet metal screw (#20 torx head) holding this bracket in place. Don't attempt to remove the bracket yet. I used a #20 torx bit in a 1/4" socket with a 6-inch extension for a 1/4" drive wrench. The head of the screw faces the ground.

12) Remove the 5mm bolts (8mm hex head) holding the bumper to the headlight assembly between the small lens and large lens (both sides).

13) Remove the two 6mm bolts (10mm hex head) on either side of the large grille area opening.

14) Remove the two 6mm bolts (10mm hex head) securing the bumper to the bottom edge of the crashbar. You can access these bolts through the front where you removed the plastic mesh grille.

15) Remove the three 5mm bolts (8mm hex head) holding each headlight assembly in place. Two longer bolts are on top. One at the rear outer corner and one at the front inner corner. The third bolt is accessed from the bottom. It's in the area above the fog lamps. You don't need to disconnect the headlight cables and remove the assembly. But it helps to allow the headlight assembly to "float" freely while you disengage the bumper from the fender.

16) At this point all of the fasteners holding the bumper in place have been removed. The only thing left to do is to remove the two brackets "clamping" the bumper cover to the lower front edge of the front fenders. Before you do this, position some cardboard boxes, bags of packing material, six packs of paper towels, or other suitable items to protect the bumper in case it falls off the car.

17) The bracket holding the bumper cover to the fender has a "pin" that slips into a slot at the front edge of the bumper cover. There is a matching slot near the front edge of the fender. It's not possible to see this pin from the bottom of the car. Use a flat blade screwdriver to pry the bracket away from the bumper/fender and towards the center of the car. The bracket will "hinge" on the pin at the front end of the bracket. After you swing the bracket away from the bumper, you need to slide it forward to remove it from the slot in the bumper cover and fender. You will probably scratch some paint off of this bracket with the screwdriver. I recommend repainting the scratched areas of the bracket before reinstalling it.

18) After removing the bracket from each side of the car you need to deal with the small plastic "hook" holding the bumper cover to the very front tip of the fender. This hook is an integral part of the bumper cover. Disengaging this hook from the fender is probably the most difficult step of removing the bumper. Simultaneously raise the head light assembly slightly, push the leading edge of the fender outward slightly, and push the bumper cover inward toward the headlight assembly. Don't get too aggressive with the fender. It's aluminum and you will make a real mess if you apply too much pressure on the fender. It took me about 20 minutes to free each side from this hook. It should take you less time, since you now know that the hook exists!

19) Gently pull the bumper forward and away from the car. This is one step where a second person would be helpful. But I did manage to do this step alone. There is a "pulley" like attachment point on each side just below the fender/bumper seam.

To re-install the bumper, reverse the order of the steps above. When re-installing the bracket between the bumper cover and fender, I smeared a thin coating of car wash soap on the bracket to facilitate snapping the bracket back into place.

yes actually most of the body parts are identical the trim is a lot different though you will be able to tell because of that. the interiors are also alot different you will have to change all the inside plastic

Easy. First you need to remove the rear splash guards(the plastic pieces located near the tires)
After that, it should be about 6 bolts/clips and they are located in plain view just standing facing the bumper. Then the bumper pulls right out.

Good luck

josh the only way to replace the headlight is to take off bumper now look at top should be roughly 4 retainers pull the top middle out and pull out do the bottom of bumper and the at fenders these are usually 10mm orscrew 10mm take them out and slide the bumper off buddy and then go backwards. if you need anymore info go to collisionrepairadvice.com