How can I get my 1993 Plymouth Voyager, w/ 3.0 V-6 running smooth like it was before I replaced the heads??
The Manuel calls for a firing order of 1,2,3,4,5,6, with 1 being at the 1 O'clock location and a counter clock wise rotation. I have a counter clock wise rotation with a dist, cap that shows 1,3,5,4,6,2, with 1 being at the 1 O'clock location, I wire it like the book it wont start, I wire it like the cap it wont start. I wire it as follows:6,2,3,1,5,4 with 6 being at the 1O'clock location it starts and runs fairly good just a little ruff, but its still not right. WHAT CAN I DO?????
Most likely you have a bad Idle motor which is a small motor mounted on the intake
manifold. If the motor can run better with your foot on the gas but
dies if removed then it is probably this. This motor is controlled by
the OBDII computer which gets it's control signal from the temp sensor
which is located either on the radiator or engine block (which could
also be bad), if the electric fan (if equipped) turns on then this is
not the problem part, but the idle motor is. Another possibility is
that you have some bad /cracked vacuum hoses which should be checked
for first, before replacing the idle motor.
If you look up from under you should see some push clips. if your removing entire bumper with rebar & all, it's probably about 4 nuts holding it to bumper shocks, but be sure to look near ends at fenders for push clips , and or screws, and across mid section. watch it, it's pretty heavy with the rebar attached so make sure you have everything ready & remove nuts last, with some help to hold it up.
I ran into this problem this past winter and after going threw everything I finally solved this problem by taking off the fast idle servo and cleaning behind it with solvant If it gunks up in their it cannot function properly causing it to stall when idiling or coming to a stop. Try this simple solution it will more than likely work for you and keep it from stalling.
Try "google images" and see if you can find picture of face on your radio, that may help jog memory. Unless you have model or at least name on front, and anything else it says.
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Remove the Distributor cap and watch the rotor as you crank the engine. If the motor is turning over and the rotor is not moving then you have a broken Timing belt. If this is the case the Belt broken while the engine was running. I can tell you from experience, I owned one of these and mine did the same thing, Every valve in the head is bent. The good news it is not hard to replace on your own and it can be done without removing the engine. The bad news you have to remove your head and have it serviced by a shop.
Which engine?
To replace the drive belt or serpentine belt on a Voyager check the engine size. For 2.4L engines, a serpentine belt runs the air conditioning compressor and alternator. For 3.0L models, the alternator and power steering share a belt with a separate belt for the AC. Dodge recommends checking the belts every 15,000 miles or 12 months for possible replacement. I have gone 3 yrs with one.. it will start squealing when you turn on the heater to defrost..
Most replacement belts have a diagram on the package. However, the easiest way is to pay close attention to the belt you are taking off, and replace the new one the same way. The pulleys themselves are usually 'grooved' or 'smooth' which tells you whether the front or back of the belt is against it. The hardest part is figuring out how to release tension on the idler-pulley. If you can get the belt on and the idler/tension pulley (same thing) pulls the belt tight, chances are you got the belt right. If you don't know what I mean, then the mostest best way is to get a Clymer Manual and read up. Its really a simple thing to do yourself.
I used a long heavy duty screw driver to release the tension on a Pontiac Sunbird.. the belt will only fit on one way..
My sincere apologies for the delayed response. I am personally going back to answer your unanswered questions. I have only been a free contributor to this site for the past 4-months.
I do not know if you still need this information, but I am going ahead and answering it anyway.
For the 2.5L (4-Cyl): Firing Order: 1-3-4-2 Cylinders: (back of engine) 1------2------3-------4 (front of engine) Distributor: ......(back) ......1......3 (+)..............(+)-screw ......2......4 ......(front)
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!
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