Starter was replaced sounds like teeth are not meshing right is there a shim that goes with the starter

Generally speaking OEM dont shim starters because the tolerances are correct in manufacturing. If there are shims present the starter may have been replaced or rebuilt and the shims compensate for teeth mesh and reduce noise in startup.

I'm not familiar with your vehicle, but I've never encountered a vehicle needing shims on a starter motor.

What may happen is the teeth on the ring gear - the teeth on the outside of the flywheel - become worn. The starter meshes with these teeth and spins the engine to start it. If the teeth are worn the starter cannot mesh with them and consequently, can't turn the engine over.

Because of compression the engine usually stops in the same position - the worn teeth are at the starter.

Try turning the engine by hand/with a wrench through 180 degrees so that any worn teeth are away from the starter, and then try starting it. If the engine spins - the fault is worn teeth on the flywheel.

did you replace it with a new starter or a wrecker starter, maybe a bad starter. check the teeth on the flywheel they maybe damaged causing the starter not to engage. you may have to shim the starter. were there any shims when you pulled the original starter off.

Without being able to hear the sound it's hard to point you in the right direction without more details. My first assumption from what you've described would be that the noise is present only while cranking/initial starting. If this is so, there are a few possible reasons for this. 1. The starter that was put is is faulty. 2. The starter was incorrectly installed. (Some starters actually have an alignment and/or shims although it's uncommon on most cars.) 3. The starter that was installed was the incorrect starter for your vehicle. (A lot of vehicles have different starters for automatic and manual transmissions that'll look identical and bolt on but the throw of the starter gear is different and/or the gear's teeth on the starter is different and doesn't properly mesh with the ring gear. This will ruin the teeth on the ring gear on your flex plate/flywheel.) 4. The teeth on the ring gear of your flex plate/flywheel were previously worn because of your old starter and now the teeh on the starter gear are not properly meshing. (This will ruin any starter that you put in.)

Hope this helps. If you can provide any more information, I'd be happy to help you to further narrow down the problem. e.g. Year, make, model, engine size, transmission type of the vehicle and part number of the starter installed. A better description of the noise and conditions of occurrence. e.g. A rough grinding noise while holding the key in the start position followed by a hollow metallic pinging noise or prolonged whining. Etc.

recheck the parts to be the correct ones because what you are describing is a gear mesh problem. ensure the gear on the starter matches those gear teeth on the flywheel. once you know they are matching and are correct for that year and size of engine, you will need a variety of shims to set the distance between the two correctly. (which you already have experience at). But it is important you have the correct starter because the solenoid and the throw-out spring are specific made to travel a set distance. If that distance is not far/long enough the gear will not full engage the width/thickness of the flywheel tooth/teeth (which causes the starter gear to strip those teeth of the back side of flywheel). SO you need to do some serious looking at those parts and the meshing when solenoid is engaging.

Shims can be where the starter case meets the bell housing. There are not many models using shims anymore, they were used a lot in GM vehicles, not so much in Ford products.
The gear on the starter drive needs to mesh with the flywheel teeth. Sometimes a starter would rock loose in its mount and wear the starter case or the bell housing. When you try to align the 2 parts, it would throw off the mesh of the gears and teeth. The shims are usually patterned after the shape of the facing of the parts. You may need to go to the Dealer for these shims.

when replacing a starter motor, some have shims or spacers to make correct distance when installed. if these wre left out on instalation this will cause the problem. another problem can be incorrect number of teeth on starter motor which will cause grinding sound and prevent correct meshing of teeth on flywheel
it is also common to get a bad new starter
check solenoid

In the kit of bits and bobs you got with the starter, there should have been a small, round feeler gauge rod just for this purpose. Add/remove shims as needed so that the rod barely slips between the teeth of throw-out gear and starter ring where they mesh together. This can be checked with starter in place, the throw-out gear in the starter nose housing pushed forward and into the ring gear manually. This will require you to leave the trans bell housing cover off to check.

If all goes well, the starter should sound sharp and engage with no whine or grind.

Make sure that starter wears a condom.

If you meant that the starter makes a high-pitched whine but does not turn the engine, that starter is bad. More specifically, its drive (the "Bendix") is bad.

If the starter makes a screeching noise as it turns the engine, like it is working too hard and is irritated about the situation, you need to shim the starter. There are shims available at the parts store that fit around the mounting bolts, between the starter and the block. They are used to ensure that the starter drive gear teeth are not too close to the ring gear. If they are too close, the starter has to work much harder as it forces the teeth to mesh.

If you meant that the starter makes a whining noise for a short while after you start the engine, don't worry. Many starters do that.

If you meant that the starter makes a loud whine constantly after you have started the engine, it is staying engaged. It is either bad and that is the source of the problem, or there is another problem (like incorrect shimming) that caused it to stay engaged, and it is now bad. The same gear reduction that allows a small electric motor to spin a big heavy engine can work in reverse if the one-way clutch in the starter drive goes bad, and the high speeds that the starter guts would be subjected to if this happened would lead to self-destruction.