Center support bearing on 1991 b2200 driveshaft

I'm guessing your you are referring to the drive shaft center support bearing. Remove u-joint 4 bolts at rear diff., then 2 bolts for center support. Slide driveshaft assembly out of trans. and lay on ground. On either side of the center support, make alignment marks on front and rear half of drive shafts with a crayon or tape (very important for re-assembly). Slide rear half off. Press out center support. Clean sleeve with emery cloth or 400 grit sand paper. Press on new center support, lube splines and reconnect drive shaft halves making sure alignment marks meet. Install assembly and torque bolts.

1) Flat level surface, chock the front tires.

2) Jack the rear up just until the tires clear.
USE jack stands. (DO NOT EVER just depend on a jack)

3) Remove the rear bolts holding the rear U-joint in.
Carefully use a tool to pry one of the U-joint cups, until the U-joint comes loose. DO NOT drop the cups off. Keep one hand wrapped around the cups as you pry the U-joint loose.

When U-joint is removed, suggest use black plastic electrical tape, and tape across the two cups, so they do not drop off.

[GOOD time to see if they are dry, and the U-joint is in good condition. DO NOT loose needle bearings ]

4) Remove the bolts that hold the Carrier Bearing Support to frame.
(Put the nuts back on a few threads of the bolts, after putting them back through the holes, in the Carrier Bearing Support strap. This way you won\'t lose them)

Lay the Support strap, and rubber aside.

5) Slide the driveshaft out of the back of the tranny. (Transmission)
It would be a real good idea to go to an auto parts store first, and rent a plug tool for the back of the tranny, once you remove the driveshaft. Keeps the tranny fluid from leaking out. Manual or automatic. (It is plastic, and a cheap rental)

The rear half-driveshaft slips out of the front one.
BEFORE removing make a mark on the front half-driveshaft, and a matching mark on the rear half-driveshaft. The driveshaft is a Balanced unit. Should be put back together the same way, it was taken apart.

Take the driveshaft with the carrier bearing on it to a shop, so they can press the old one off, and the new one on.

Reverse your steps.

(Owner of 1994 GMC Sonoma 2-wheel drive, extended cab. Civilian mechanic on Army base. Work on ALL wheeled vehicles, and track up to, but not including, Abrams M1A2 tank )

Regards,
joecoolvette

To replace pinon bearing you need to pull wheels and the brake drums off next pull cover off the back of the rear end (make sure you have a drain pan under rear end) next turn dive shaft till you see a small bolt remove bolt pull center pin out push axle in pull c clips out pull axels out remove four bolts holding ring and spider gears remove gears assembly next remove drive shaft remove bolt from pinon push pinon in remove seal and bearing

Remove wheel. Take off outer driveshaft nut. Remove lower ball joint pinch bolt & separate ball joint from spindle. Pull rotor & spindle out & away to pull driveshaft outer splined end out of rotor center hub. Look on the back of the spindle for the 4 bolts that hold in the wheel bearing. Use a 12 point socket to remove the 4 bolts and remove wheel bearing from spindle (out towards the wheel stud side). Probably will have to use a air chisel to get it out. Once it's out undo the 4 bolts on the outer (wheel stud side) of the rotor and remove the rotor from the hub. Clean & lube the hole where the bearing was in the spindle & the inner face of the hub. MAKE SURE IT'S CLEAN otherwise you may get a pulsation on braking if theres a piece of rust or dirt between the rotor center & the hub face. Reverse procedure to install.

If the rear bolts don't come out then you will have to use a slide hammer to separate the bearing to replace the rotor and there is a very good chance you will need to replace the wheel bearing after you're done (noisy on road test).


Not the job to do at home, usually an easy 2-3 hours per side if things go bad (book time is 2.2 hrs per side). Use good quality rotors as you don't want to have to do it again because a cheap rotor gave you a pulsation.

about $200 in parts,,,you can not do this at home,,,,,you need special tools to press yoke on and off and even then sometimes they bend,,,not a easy job,,,,,,i am a master tech and worked at saturn for 8 years and i hated doing these

If the rattle is low it must be a minor issue. but if its high contact your service dealer.

Not unless you bend the tube. You will have to disassemble at least one U-joint--keep track of how it came apart and all of the little needle bearings in the cups on the end of the cross--keep everything clean. Fresh grease will help keep things together when putting it all back.

you have to pull off the driveshaft and take it apart then press off the carrier bearing

here's the illustration with parts and numbers you need. take to dealer parts counter. If the bolts cam out, are you sure the u-joints did not get damaged?

#12 is the bolts


Item Part Number Description 1 — Needle Rollers (Part of 4635) 2 — Grease Seal (Part of 4635) 3 — Bearing Cup (Part of 4635) 4 — Thrust Washer (Part of 4635) 5 — Spider (Part of 4635) 6 4635 Universal Joint 7 4841 Driveshaft Slip Yoke 8 — Snap Ring (8 Req'd) (Part of 4635) 9 4602 Driveshaft 10 4782 Driveshaft Centering Socket Yoke 11 4851 Rear Axle Universal Joint Flange 12 N800574-S100 Bolt (4 Req'd) 13 4635 Universal Joint 14 — End Yoke (Part of 4635) A — Tighten to 93-130 Nm (71-95 Lb-Ft)

the outer bearings can be driven in using a suitable Very Large socket. Removing the old ones either requires a puller or a cutting torch. I use either depending on the state of the bearings.
when driving new ones in, make sure

1. your socket wont jam in with the bearing
2. you only hit against the outer bearing shell
3. you keep it very straight
4. hit it til you hear a resounding solid clunk as the bearing reaches full insertion.
5. you fit a new oil seal
6. use a block of wood across the oil seal face to protect it as you knock it in - keep it straight!

To answer the other question, yes you do have to remove the driveshaft to replace the oil seal. the Diff ack-plate has to be removed, the locking horseshoes from the ends of the driveshaft, & the wheels. It takes about 1 hour to remove them & clean the backplate. about another to reassemble.
I charge about $140 plus parts