A huge noisy at the rear axle. i change the following parts as follows axle shaft R/L, axle bearing and axle-u-joint.but still noisy
Your carrier bearings and possibly the pinion bearings are the source if the noise is a low pitched grumble or gravelly noise that starts just about 20 mph and up. If it is louder when quickly changing lanes to the left, it is probably the right wheel bearing, and if it is louder when changing lanes to the right, it is the left wheel bearing. If it is a whine that is really annoying at 45-65 mph, your ring and pinion are probably worn beyond their design specification limit. If your U-joints are OK, but you can hear a loud clunk from the rear when you get on and off the throttle, you definitely have play in your ring and pinion. Have the cover removed and you can sheck this easily. I have worked on several Jeep Grand Cherokee differentials, and the ring an pinion has needed replacing on them all. A few had bad bearings, too. You should probably replace the bearings and the ring and pinion, because the labor is nearly the same and the parts are just a bit more. If you look through the forums on the www you will find many people that replaced the bearings to fix the grumble, only to finish the job and find out they also have the whine.
I had the same issue around 150k it required the replacement of the ring and pinion in the rear diff. There were damaged bearings in my case, but very commonly a rear differential hum or whine is just a wearing of the differential and the movement or air and oil into the worn bearings and gears. If your don't plan on hauling any heavy loads your differential could still last a very long time, just monitor the hum for increasing intensity or other rear end noises.
Hi there, this sound like the differential this is a common problem with most four by fours and usually indicates that at some time in its life it has been worked hard although not in all cases. Hope this helps
Lexus Car ES, IS, LS 1998-06
Coil Spring Rear Suspension
Hub & Bearings
Adjustment
Check the backlash in bearing shaft direction and the axle hub deviation. Maximum for backlash should be 0.0020 in. (0.05mm) and for axle hub deviation 0.020 in. (0.05mm).
Fig. Checking wheel bearings for excessive play
NOTE
The rear wheel bearings are non-adjustable. If the wheel bearing is out of specifications, replace the wheel bearing.
Removal & Installation
Fig. Removing the oil seal (inner)-LS 430
Fig. Removing the axle hub from the axle carrier-LS 430
Backing plate.
Inner race (outside) from the axle hub
Fig. Removing the inner race (outside) from the axle hub-LS 430
Oil seal (outer) from the axle
Fig. Removing the oil seal (outer)-LS 430
Snapring from inside the axle housing
Bearing from the axle housing
Fig. Installing the oil seal (outer)-LS 430
Backing plate to the axle housing. Do NOT install the bolts or nuts at this time.
Inner race (inside) to the axle housing
Axle hub to the axle housing
Backing plate in position. Tighten the bolts and nuts to 43 ft. lbs. (59 Nm).
New oil seal (inner) to the axle housing. Coat the oil seal lip with multipurpose grease.
Fig. Installing the oil seal (inner)-LS 430
New dust deflector. Be sure to align the hose for the ABS speed sensor in the dust deflector and axle carrier.
Upper control arm to the axle carrier by installing the nut. Tighten the nut to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
Axle carrier and upper control arm to the vehicle as an assembly
2 upper control arm set bolts and tighten the bolts to 121 ft. lbs. (164 Nm)
Bolt and nut holding the strut to the axle carrier. Tighten to 101 ft. lbs. (137 Nm).
Bolt and nut connecting the No. 2 lower control arm to the axle carrier. Tighten the bolt to 60 ft. lbs. (81 Nm).
Nut and adjusting cam to hold the No. 2 lower control arm to the body. Align the adjusting cam marks and tighten the nut to 57 ft. lbs. (78 Nm).
Stabilizer bar link to the No. 2 lower control arm and tighten the nut to 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm)
No. 1 lower control arm to the axle carrier and body. Install the nut to hold the No. 1 lower control arm to the axle carrier. Tighten the nut to 43 ft. lbs. (59 Nm).
Nut and adjusting cam to hold the No. 1 lower control arm to the body. Align the matchmarks and tighten the nut to 57 ft. lbs. (78 Nm).
Strut rod to the axle carrier and body. Install the bolt and nut to hold the strut rod to the body. Tighten to 57 ft. lbs. (78 Nm).
Bolt and nut to hold the strut rod to the axle carrier. Tighten to 136 ft. lbs. (184 Nm)
Parking brake shoes and cable
Outboard joint side of the halfshaft and align the matchmarks on the side gear shaft and the halfshaft. Coat the threads with clean oil and install the hexagon bolts. Tighten bolts to 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm).
Suspension member brace with the 2 bolts. Tighten the 2 bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
Nut to hold the halfshaft to the rear axle. Tighten the nut to 213 ft. lbs. (289 Nm).
Lock cap and cotter pin
Brake disc to the axle hub with the matchmarks aligned. Install the 2 screws and tighten the screws to 48 inch lbs. (5 Nm).
Brake caliper to the vehicle and install the 2 bolts. Tighten the bolts to 77 ft. lbs. (104 Nm).
ABS speed sensor and wiring harness
Height control sensor link with the matchmarks aligned. Tighten the nut to 48 inch lbs. (5 Nm).
Rear wheel(s)
Negative battery cable
Fig. Exploded view rear carrier assembly, hub and bearing-
Fig. Exploded view rear Axle carrier and hub assembly-ES 330
Stabilizer Bar
Removal & Installation
Strut & Coil Spring
Removal & Installation
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I have the same problem. There is a big noise under my feet 30 to 50kph (i dont know in Miles) Can i repair this myself? On all forum, people explain the problem but nobody knows how to repair.
Thks
the truck is actually a 74 model I'm not sure the rear end is original for this truck . it measures about 14 in. tall and has 23 spline axle I want to know what rear end I have. thanks
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