Seems like you were given very good advice and Diagrams. You may be unfamiliar with the term "Flash" so I will add that the operating instructions(Software) may not installed on the computer you purchased. The operating info may need to be added (Flashed) so the computer can work. Just having the box fit the connections does not mean it is ready to go.
Another point is that when you add electric equipment to your vehicle, always have a fuse in place. If you don't want to use an inline fuse then there are Aftermarket parts that clip into your fusebox and they provide power terminals you can use with your existing fusebox.
Your Alternator could be damaged, but an engine can run without an Alternator for a short time period.
Check your coilpak using an Ohmmeter with the Battery disconnected. If it has continuity, it should work. Then set up a test light to the supply wire for power to the coil and turn on the Ignition to RUN position after you reconnect the battery. The coil should be getting power in the RUN position. If it does not, you need to trace down that power line.
Thanks man you were right on also. Im glad to know that there are people out there willing to take the time to pass on their knowledge and help. Thanks like i said. Im really good and great with computers if you ever have a computer problem im your guy just email me at [email protected] anytime and ill do what i can. Thanks man.
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The Ignition Control Module (ICM) could be the source of all of your car's
problems. It's also simple to fix. Shop
around online to get the best price.
I always recommend replacing ICMs at 120,000 miles or 10 years,
whichever comes first. These are extremely problematic components. Conceptually, the ICM is a large output transistor (switch) controlling
current through the primary coil. ICMs replace points and condenser in
older vehicles. In the primary coil, current builds to 5 to 12 amps,
generating lots of heat (due to inductance). Then, the ECM controls when
the ICM "switches off" current to the primary coil, causing amperage to
go to zero. When this happens, 12 to 14 volts in the primary coil is
"stepped-up" to 30,000 volts in the secondary coil. This process creates
a "type" of alternating current required for the coil (step-up
transformer) to work. In a properly working ICM, timing is precisely
when needed to fire each spark plug. In your Cavalier, I believe fuel
built up and was ignited at the wrong time, because the ICM was not
firing when it was supposed to. It resulted in blowing out the exhaust.
IMPORTANT NOTE: I am not a fan of bench testing ICMs and coils. DIY
bench testing does not simulate the heat that often causes these
components to exhibit intermittent failure. It's safer to replace these
critical ignition system components every 120,000 miles or 10 years,
whichever comes first.
Thank you for using fixa and keep us posted, stay safe and post back.
Try using rockauto.com, they have low prices and name brand parts. I have used them for years.
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That fuse that kept blowing is a direct wire to the PCM. Below is a picture of one of the connectors at the PCM. I have marked the pin number that you need to check. Make sure you're getting power at that pin number (it's a pink wire). Also below is a picture of a main ground for the circuit that the fuse was blowing. Also is a picture of the connector that that ground wire goes through. It's a black and white wire. Also I see you said you got a new computer. Did you have it or was it flashed for your vehicle ? Any questions feel free to email me at [email protected] and I'll do my best to help.
Man thanks a lot this was very helpful. Your AWESOME.. GREAT DIAGRAMS... I found out the problem. I had to replace a wire harness. i didnt fry anything at all thank goodness. What happened was i went over everything atleast a dozen times and finally found it. I jacked my car in the air and looked everywhere and with my flashlight got a glance of soem copper wire. i looked what my stupid tail did was mount a freckin light on a wiring case and screwed the dam screw right into the wires. after all this time it was that simple. need to say i will not install something i dont know how to unless i have my brother help me which i should have waited for him to do so this time but i was to ansy to get them on. and second of all i wish my car wasnt lowered 3inches because i would have seen this problem a lot sooner. i guess we all learn from our mistakes and this was a big lesson learned and a hard one to. like i said thanks a lot for all your help my car is running again finally. Thanks...
I just wanted to add one more comment to let you know that you were right on the money man. These diagrams were very helpful. I the type of person you could tell me where to look a hundred times and be lost and show me once and ill always know where to go after that. Thanks a lot again i will refer you to anybody.. Thanks.
Anytime and thanks for the compliment. If you have questions in the future you can email me directly at [email protected] and I will do my best to help
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The alternator wouldn't keep it from starting if its being jumped by another vehicle, it would only die out after the cables were removed (if battery was below 10volts or until battery voltage was low as the car would run off of a good battery until it drained it) I would not recommend installing another PCM only because if your short to ground is on that circuit it will fry the new one (and they are expensive). If you have no spark and are 100% sure of that start there. If your not Pull plug wire out and put a spark tester on it while cranking. Harbor Freight has these for a bout $5 and you can test each plug individually. If no spark start start with the easiest which is the coil pack. Ohm them out and see if they have the proper resistance (I can look u the specs for you later. You probably have one that does all 4 cylinders. Chances are you fried something on the ignition circuit but being that its electrical its really hard to diagnose one the net. If no fuses are blown (double check) and you have verified your also getting fuel to the motor then spark is your next option and if spark then timing which leads you to the PCM/ECU etc and additional wiring.
Sounds like pcm or wiring has a short causing fuse to blow. Maybe try another pcm.
You could also remove the alternator and have it bench tested at autozone or advance auto parts or your local auto parts store. This will tell you if the alternator is blown.
Check that there aren't any shorts to ground from the wiring, as well, but this can be more time consuming.
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What is this post about, what do the laws of Spain have to do with this repair?? Silly Asss post, has zip to do with problem at hand.
"Its illegal to fit these lights here in spain and you would face a big fine and points on licence for unauthorised tampering with a vehicle causing it to not conform with the original certificate of homoglonation"
I agree, if you can't supply information that would help solve the issue at hand than there is no reason to post!
I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa
Its illegal to fit these lights here in spain and you would face a big fine and points on licence for unauthorised tampering with a vehicle causing it to not conform with the original certificate of homoglonation
why is it illegal i dont see why? its for car shows and stuff. Its illegal here to ride with certain colors like blue,red,green,white and purple but other than that u can ride with the other colors on. it doesnt make much since but every country has there rules and stuff im glad that rule isnt here in the US.
im not tryin to be rude or anything im just being honest. Did you really need to post this as a soultion to fix my car. If so this wasnt helpful. I can understand you may be against underglows for whatever reason but i would have really appreciated some advice on how to help me get my car started than a lecture on what is illegal on my car. Its legal to smoke weed marjuana in canada but not in the us should i post that for a solution on someones page. i duno you get what im sayin. Thanks for making me relize tho that im pround to be an american and atl least i know im free and can do pritty much whatever i want to my own personal vehicle that i paid for...
this is spain and anything and everythinig has to have a bit of paper with a stamp on it by some beaurocrat or the other ,thats why wood and furniture is so expensive here as all the trees cut down here they make paper out of ,trust me on this you havent tried to transfer ownership of a car or fit a towbar here without certificate of this or that after 26yrs here iam a expert on how to do things like this and earn a living doing paperwork for ex-pats who can only master beer in spanish .If it isnt on the certificate of homoglonation for the vehicle you cannot fit it without a technical engineers report and then another vehicle inspection .Your famous big trucks like the E350 or a GMC thingys are classified as commercial vehicles here and as such when they get to 10 yrs old have to be inspected every 6 months ,i dont mind as it keeps me in work and the first thing they check on the inspection --- chassis number not that thing in the dash but the stamp on the chassis ,and if its corroded ----- well dont go their .must fly have work to do this morning
Since this sight can have posts from around the world than use the "ask for clarification" link under the askers question to help answer questions you may have. If you think the information you have is relevant and will help solve the problem then by all means post a solution.
Posting a solution with no relevance to the question is just irresponsible posting!
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As others have noted, you've probably damaged the ignition module. While you're at it, check the crankshaft sensor (usually attached to this module) and replace it if the housing is cracked.
The main point of my post is this: If the electrical fault was so severe it took out your ignition system, there is a good chance you damaged the regulator or diode pack inside the alternator. I would recommend changing these even if the alternator passes the bench test; there's now too high a probability one of these will fail (and according to the Murphy's law corollary, it will happen after dark when you are at least 100 miles away from the nearest available replacement).
If you have added a lot of electrical accessories, particularly a high-power audio system, you should consider replacing the stock alternator with a unit having a higher current rating. To determine the size you need, add up the current draws for each item, then add that to the rating for your original alternator.
Note: be very careful about tacking accessories onto existing vehicle wiring. If you overload a wire, it could overheat, leading to insulation breakdowns and consequently shorts to ground (fuses blowing), or fire. For something like fog lamps or high-power audio amps, it is better to run a separate wire with an in-line fuse block to a terminal stud attached to the battery clamp. The stock radio supply wire is not intended for lights! Use proper wiring methods; twisting bare wires together and wrapping with tape is unreliable. As you have already discovered, proper wire routing is mandatory - you have to keep the wire away from heat and moving parts. BTW, it really stinks to work on a wiring harness that's been made into a rat's nest (If i see that in a car, I automatically devalue it by $500). Keep it neat, use color coding to distinguish the wires or attach permanent ID tags to them, and document your changes on paper inserted tucked into your owner's manual. That will save you a lot of hassle if you need to work on it a few months later, or if someone else needs to work on it.
CHECK IGNITION FUSE TO IGNITION COIL AND IGNITION MODULE GETTING POWER.IF BATTERY POWER GETTING TO IGNITION MODULE AND COILS.IF POWER GETTING TO IGNITION MODULE.EITHER IGNITION MODULE FAULTY OR CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR AND PCM FAULTY YOU NEED A DIAGNOSTIC SCANNER TO SCAN ENTIRE PCM CONTROL SEE WHAT CAUSING NO START CONDITIONS.
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i have checked all the wiring i havent seen anything out of place. The cls/pcm and pcm fuse are not blowing anymore but yet i still dont have spark. i have put a new computer (ECU) in and still nothing. is it likely that when i cut the wire with the clutch i could have sent a surge of power and blown the coil pack,alternator, or soemthing like that. The only thing that wire was connected to was the positive terminal of the battery and the positive part of my radio thats it. the radio fuse didnt even blow. im stumped. I have checked the wires like i said but im no expert so i may have missed something. i am just trying to it started and im really stumped as it starts one moment and not the next. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Have you checked for injector pulse?
Have you checked for power to the ignition module?
have you checked for signal to the ignition module from the PCM?
Have you checked for power to the fuses?
Are you sure you only cut through one wire?
It is unlikely the alternator. Its only role is to charge the battery.
That fuse feeds the instrument cluster via the PCM. I think it might also have something to do with the speed sensor. I recommend you disconnect the speed sensor (on the transmission) to see if it will start. If it does, replace the speed sensor. If not, try disconnecting the instrument cluster. Maybe you cut into one of the cluster wires or fed a pulse back to the cluster thru the radio.
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