My Horn. Last week I used the horn, and the horn continued to sound after I removed my hand from the steering wheel. So I had to disconnect the wire from horn itself. So my question is.... The problem a wire short, or the horn switch in the steering wheel , or the horn relay? And what is the easiest that I can replace it?

Hello,

If you've recently replaced your indicator switch and light switch with a second-hand one and now your horn is sounding continuously when you connect the battery, there could be a few potential reasons for this issue:

1. Wiring Issue: Double-check the wiring connections for the indicator switch and light switch. Ensure that all wires are correctly connected to their respective terminals. A loose or incorrect connection could be causing a short circuit, which might trigger the horn.
2. Faulty Switch: The second-hand switch you obtained might be faulty or damaged. It's possible that there's an internal issue within the switch itself, causing it to send a constant signal to the horn.
3. Short Circuit: It's possible that during the installation process, a wire got pinched or damaged, creating a short circuit. This could lead to continuous power being supplied to the horn circuit.
4. Grounding Issue: Check the grounding of the switches and the horn. Poor grounding can lead to erratic behavior in electrical systems.
5. Compatibility: Ensure that the second-hand switch is compatible with your vehicle's make and model. Different vehicles might have variations in wiring and electrical systems.

Here are a few steps you can take to troubleshoot and address the issue:

1. Disconnect Battery: Disconnect the battery to stop the continuous horn sound and prevent any further electrical issues.
2. Inspect Wiring: Carefully inspect the wiring connections for any signs of damage, loose connections, or incorrect connections. Make sure that each wire is connected to the correct terminal on the switches.
3. Check Switch Functionality: Test the second-hand switch separately before connecting it to your vehicle. Verify that it functions correctly and doesn't cause any issues when operated.
4. Test Horn Circuit: Test the horn circuit by disconnecting the wires from the horn itself. If the horn stops sounding, then the issue is likely related to the wiring or the switch. If the horn continues to sound, the problem might be in the horn relay or elsewhere in the electrical system.
5. Professional Help: If you're unable to identify and resolve the issue, consider seeking assistance from a professional mechanic or an automotive electrician. They have the expertise to diagnose and fix electrical problems effectively.

It's important to address electrical issues promptly to avoid potential damage to your vehicle's electrical system and ensure safe operation.

Easy problem.
1. Find the horn.
2. Disconnect the wire to the horn.
3. Apply voltage from the battery to the horn via a jumper cable.
4. No sound? Horn is bad, replace it.
5. Horn sounds? Horn relay is bad, find it and replace it. Could also be the horn switch in the steering wheel. With horn disconnected, push on steering wheel and listen for the relay to click. No click? then you have a bad steering wheel switch or no relay.

Or take the car into a reputable service shop. Taking your steering wheel apart is difficult, probably not something you want to do on your own.

if you want to disconnect the horn, the easiest way is to locate it under the hood and remove one of the wires connected to it.

I verify its not a stuck relay...

I disconnect connector under dash and horn stops...

I then suspect its the Horn contacts or a worn grounded wire in air bag/horn switch assembly in steering wheel.

The decorative Vinyl cover shrinks with age...presses on horn contacts against air bag.

I Disconnect Air bag connector (identified as Yellow wire and Connector) usually under dash.

WARNING: ( I Do not - I DO NoT probe the yellow harness/connector with a meter or test light. A test light WILL Detonate my air bag, and impale the bracket in a nearby object/person - me.)

I Removed screws (2) behind steering wheel - which allow air bag horn assembly to be removed.

I Disconnect Air bag connector in this location as well (identified as Yellow wire and Connector) and then;

The red (color varies) and black Horn wires will be plugged into ribbon connectors usually (2) two that feed/connect to contacts for horn function on face of air bag.

I pause here and verify horn will stop blowing when I disconnect the wires going to horn contacts. So I get horn blowing again...

Check horn: To verify this is the cause; I reconnect (whatever fuse/relay/ connector (Not the airbag connector) I disconnected so they will stop blowing) and get horn/s so they are blowing again...

Then I disconnect the ribbon connectors to verify blowing stops.

Note: The experience I had with horn on

Buick Park Ave was at night when temperature cools after hot day, the vinyl cover shrank and horn blows... pressing on horn area of steering wheel firmly would stop horn briefly - then continue.

Note: I will need a rivet tool and rivets... to reassemble.

WARNING: I Do not drill into airbag explosive container. If I do not know how to carefully drill off correct rivet heads and remove vinyl decorative cover from air bag/horn... I STOP and go to the junkyard or ebay and purchase/replace the airbag/horn assembly.

I continued by drilling out rivets (the rivets holding vinyl cover) by using a drill bit as large (or smaller) as the head of rivet and drill gently to release head from rivet body/shank.

I mark all pieces with a magic marker to verify I reassemble right side up (all metal brackets and trim plates and cover).

I Remove vinyl cover exposing horn contact pads which were sandwiched between cover and air bag container.

I used a razor blade to remove vinyl honeycomb material from area of vinyl cover - that when pressed - would activate horn/contacts.

Only a 1/16 of an inch or less needs to be removed.

(I Bend cover inside out and shave material off of area slowly. Care not to cut myself.)

I Reassemble in reverse order with rivets.

Check horn: ...function at this point... by plugging in horn connectors and assure horn contacts work properly as expected.

Before you pull the wheel (which involves removing the air bag unit) you can test the horn switch at its connector with the cable reel (newfangled horn ring). First remove the dashboard lower cover under the steering column. Remove the steering column upper and lower covers. Disconnect the dashboard wire harness connector (4 pins) from the cable reel. Check for continuity between the cable reel no.2 terminal (light green/blue stripe wire) and body ground in each horn switch position. There should be continuity when horn is pushed and no continuity when horn is released. If one or both continuity checks fail, then you'll have to remove the airbag and change out the cable reel.

It sounds like your clock spring, as we call it, has failed under the steering wheel. To remove the assembly you must first disconnect the negative battery cable to avoid deploying the air bag. There are 2 to 4 screws on the back of the steering wheel holding the horn pad onto the wheel. Remove those screws and carefully lift the horn pad off and disconnect the wire plugs. The horn wire is usually red and the air bag usually yellow. You will need a cheap steering wheel puller from the local auto zone to remove the steering wheel. They have a small round disc type that is easy to use and cheap. Now remove the large nut from the center of the steering shaft. Install the tool and remove the wheel. Now you will see a large round disc or air bag ribbon held on by a clip. use an pick tool and a small screw driver to remove this clip. Now trace the wires under the column and unplug the other end and you can remove the ribbon or clock spring. Now feed in the wiring for the new ribbon and reverse the process to reassemble. While you have the horn pad off test the horn switch to see if the horn pad is bad and may need replaced also. If the switch is good find the horn relay in the fuse box under the hood and see if when you press the horn does it get power from the switch. to test the horn itself apply 12volts to the two connectors on the horn and if it sounds it is OK. The system is made up of horn, horn relay, and horn switch. Thanks for looking for a solution at Fixya.com.

Try to find the horn and use a test light to try to ground out one or the other contacts. The horn should be energized at all times, as long as the battery is charged.

The horn should sound if you ground out one or the other terminal with a test light. If not, then the horn is bad.

Also, one can check the button at the steering wheel. If one uses a test light to ground out the switch there, the horn should sound.

See fig. 3 for wire for horn in steering wheel:

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Without Air Bag
See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8
Disconnect the battery ground cable before removing the steering wheel. When installing a steering wheel, always make sure that the turn signal lever is in the neutral position.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. If your vehicle is equipped with controls for the radio on the steering wheel proceed as follows:

Fig. Fig. 1: Pry out the control button assembly with a thin-bladed tool along the top of the edge, being careful not to damage the control assembly

1. Pry out the control button assembly with a thin bladed tool along the top of the edge of the assembly.
2. Disconnect the steering wheel control.

1. On vehicles without the radio controls on the steering pad, take a thin-bladed tool and pry the pad off the steering wheel. On wheels with a center cap, pull off the cap.

Fig. Fig. 2: Common steering wheel pad types

1. After lifting the trim off, pry the horn wires from the back of the pad. On some models gently push down on the horn lead and turn left, the wire and spring will then come out of the canceling cam tower.

Fig. Fig. 3: Carefully pry the lead wire for the horn off of the horn pad

1. Remove the retainer ring with a pair of ring expanders, then remove the steering wheel nut.

Find the horn and use a test light to try to ground out one of the two terminals to see if it sounds. If it does, then the horn is ok, but it may be the switch in the steering wheel.

To test the steering wheel switch, take the horn cover off of the steering wheel and search for the lead for the button and try to ground it out. It may sound if you do this. If it does, then there is something wrong with the button connection at the clock spring.
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Here are instructions on how to remove and replace the steering wheel which can help to understand how to troubleshoot the horn switch which is related to the clock spring electrical connector:

Steering Wheel Removal & Installation To Remove:
NOTE: Make sure the wheels are in the straight-ahead position. Disconnect the battery ground cable and wait at least one minute.
WARNING
To avoid the risk of serious personal injury, read and follow all warnings, notes and instructions in the deactivation procedure. Deactivate the supplemental restraint system (SRS).

1. Remove the driver side air bag.
2. Disconnect the clockspring electrical connector.
3. Remove and discard the steering wheel bolt.
4. Use steering wheel puller and remove steering wheel.

CAUTION
Removing the steering wheel without using a puller can damage the column bearings. Using a suitable puller, remove the steering wheel.
Remove the steering wheel while routing the wires from the clockspring through the steering wheel.
WARNING
To avoid the risk of serious personal injury, read and follow all warnings, notes and instructions in the reactivation procedure. Reactivate the supplemental restraint system (SRS).
To Install:

1. Install steering wheel, while guiding wires from clockspring through.
2. Install new steering wheel bolt. Tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
3. Connect the clockspring electrical connector.
4. Install the driver's side air bag.

My 2000 Cirrus had the same problem.

Before I describe how I fixed mine, a warning and disclaimer:
Working on the horn switch, clock spring and steering column requires working safely with the air bag module. An airbag that goes off unintentionally can cause serious or fatal injuries. If you don't know how to handle the air bag safely, do not attempt to fix this yourself!

Symptom: Horn sounds when steering wheel is turned or with slight movement of the air bag module in the center of the steering wheel.

Possible causes:
1. Deteriorated insulators under the air bag mounting bracket screws. (This is what caused the problem in my case.)
2. Warped or bent steering wheel or air bag module.
3. Short circuit in clock spring assembly.
4. Short circuit in steering column due to abraded or pinched wire.
5. Faulty horn relay. (Very unlikely if the horn only sounds when turning the wheel.)

How the "horn switch" works: The term "horn switch" is a bit of a misnomer because there is no identifiable "switch" as one might think. The "switch" is actually a combination of parts: The four air bag bracket mounting screws, four plastic bushings and washers that insulate the air bag mounting brackets from the screws which are fastened to the grounded steering column, four springs under the bushings and the metal back side of the airbag module. The horn wire, which comes from the horn relay up the steering column and through he clock spring, is connected to the left hand mounting bracket which is electrically connected to the back of the airbag module which is electrically connected to the right hand mounting bracket when everything is assembled. When the air bag module is pushed in, the metal back contacts one or more of the four air bag module mounting screws completing the circuit to ground and thus activating the horn relay.

Troubleshooting:
1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal on the strut tower under the hood and pull the two 10 A air bag fuses from the fuse panel on the left side of the dash.

WARNING!: WAIT TWO MINUTES TO ALLOW THE AIR BAG SYSTEM CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE PROCEEDING. NEVER DISCONNECT OR RECONNECT THE AIR BAG MODULE ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR UNLESS THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL HAS BEEN DISCONNECTED FOR AT LEAST TWO MINUTES. FAILURE TO HEED THIS WARNING COULD RESULT IN UNEXPECTED DEPLOYMENT OF THE AIR BAG RESULTING IN INJURY OR DEATH.

2. Loosen the two torx head screws on the back of the steering wheel that secure the air bag module to the wheel. The screws are captive in plastic retainers, so don't try to remove them.

3. Remove the air bag module, pull out the connector lock and disconnect the air bag module connector.

4. Place the air bag module on a flat surface connector side down away from where you are working.

5. Locate the four air bag mounting bracket screws. Look for black gritty debris around the screw heads and inside the steering wheel. This is an indication that the top insulating washers have deteriorated allowing the mounting brackets to short out to the screws.

6. Now reconnect the battery negative lead and do the following tests:

a. Move the left hand bracket slightly. If the horn sounds, then the top side insulating washers are either gone or deteriorated. If you want to test the right hand bracket, you will need to connect a jumper wire between the brackets. If one washer is cracked or missing, it is likely they all are.

b. Disconnect the horn wire from the left hand bracket. Start the car and turn the steering wheel to the stop in both directions. If the horn still sounds, then you have either a bad clock spring or a short circuit in the steering column.

The repair if the insulating washers are bad:

The official Chrysler repair manual says to replace the steering wheel (about $260); however, there is a cheaper solution.

1. Remove the four air bag bracket mounting screws, bushings, springs and the two brackets, paying careful attention to how they are assembled so you can re-assemble them later.

2. Clean any debris, dirt and grease from the brackets and undersides of the screw heads.

3. Purchase or fabricate some thin insulating (plastic) washers to replace the ones that deteriorated, which unfortunately you cannot buy from Chrysler. I insulated my brackets and screws with kapton insulating tape plus some very thin plastic washers I cut from some blister pack packaging scrap (probably clear polystyrene). This plastic is very thin, but still is pretty tough. Some hollow punches are handy for punching the holes and making nice round washers, but you could probably do it with small scissors or your wife's scrapbook punches if you are careful.

4. Reassemble the air bag mounting brackets to the steering wheel placing the new insulating washers and/or tape between the screw heads and brackets.

5. Reconnect the horn wire to the left hand bracket and move the bracket around a bit. If the horn doesn't sound, then you likely have fixed the problem. Once again, to test the right hand bracket, you need to jumper the left and right brackets together.

6. Disconnect the negative battery lead and wait at least two minutes before proceeding to ensure the air bag capacitor is discharged.

7. Reconnect the air bag connector to the air bag module and insert connector lock.

8. Reassemble the air bag module to the steering wheel.

9. Reconnect the negative battery lead and test the horn. It should blow only when the air bag module is pushed in. Start the car and turn the wheel to both extremes to test the repair.
If the horn sounds continuously, then the washers you put in are two thick causing the air bag module to rest on the screw heads.

10. Turn the car off and reinsert the two 10 A air bag fuses, then restart the car and make sure the air bag light comes on briefly then goes off.

Hope you find this helpful.

Check the horn actuating contact at the centre of the steering wheel. It may be damaged or mis-aligned.
Also check the carbon contact that runs on the slip ring under the steering wheel (associated with steering wheel horn actuate switch) It may be damaged or mis-aligned.

If none of the above are faulty, you should look for a possible intermittent short to ground on the horn actuation control wiring.