My volvo stalled on me this morning and then shut off completly. I have charged the battery twice in the last two weeks with new ones. I have jump started it several times before and it did start but this morning I even tried to jump start it this time when it died on me and every time I took the jump start cables off the terminals, it jut shut off.

Depends on the device capabilities and the type of cells or battery it uses - the common type of jump starter has a sealed lead acid battery and recently high performance types have been introduced that are lighter and smaller and more expensive due to being based on lithium cells.

It is important the lead acid type is never allowed to become discharged as if left discharged for even a short time it will be damaged and in a few weeks could be completely ruined. A jump starter should be recharged after every use and routinely charged every month or two.

A top up charge as above would usually last anything from half an hour to several hours depending on the battery capacity and state of charge. A jump starter designed to start a big diesel will take longer than one designed to start small to medium petrol engines.

If the unit is completely discharged and in the unlikely event it is still healthy, a complete recharge could take days...

Have you had it checked for leakage whilst off? Ask for a DC current leakage test from your battery whilst the key is removed. Leakage will result in the battery draining whilst off. If the test show a leak you will need to start/looking for electrical circuits / lights remaining on.

Is your voltage regulator internal in the alternator? If not, you may try replacing that since it regulates the voltage being put back into battery when used by the car. Make sure there are no things remaining on when you turn vehicle off. An item that was installed by a third party like a radio or driving lights or similar stuff could effect the draining of a battery. If you replaced the battery, be sure you get one with the most cold cranking amps you can find. You may also install a voltage gauge in car to check your voltage as you drive your car. Cheap batteries that you may purchase are exactly that, cheap. Investing in a good battery can help and remember if it goes bad prematurely you can bring it back and get a pro-rated price return on it depending on the quoted months listing on it. For example a 72 month battery is suppose to last 72 months+ and can be returned or prorated towards a new battery. Alternators are also in this same type of group. You want to by a decent one because the cheap ones are bad. Many Autoparts stores will test both of these items for free for you. I suggest having one check those parts and that way your not replacing things that could possibly be still good. It could be something else completely causing the problem.

usually if the battery doesn't get charged...then the car automatically dies...
the cause of this problem should be the alternator...
when the car is running...bring a voltage gauge and put it on the battery...
if it shows 14 volts +
then the alternator is doing its job...
if its giving below 14 volts then the alternator needs to be changed...
Good Luck!

alt reg is bad take to discount auto to test the alt. If alt is good. there is a alt fuse on fire wallthat is going bad

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You need to test alternator voltage output. Most likely will need replacement. Hope this helps

You need to Check the Belts for Tightness and replace the Battery Cables. When you Replace the Cables, you will need to Grind the Area where the Cables attach to Make sure that they are Contacting the Area Completely. A wire Brush will work very well for this. If the Belts are worn, they will Stretch out and will not allow the Alternator to charge the Battery. If you need more Help Just let me Know! Please Rate My Response! Thanks!

when was the last tune up...and check the battery make sure its not frozen just because it jumps doesnt mean it has enough power to crank even if your jump starting and check the belts

Remove the starter & inspect the contacts inside the starter solenoid housing. If they are burnt and/or worn, you will get this condition. Replace the contacts and the plunger, or replace the starter. I change contacts in my shop 3-4 times a week. Quite a common failure. The clicking noise is the plunger hitting one contact, but not the other, due to wear.

Check for a parasitic draw?