Put new cliper brake then 3 mile rotor make hot why

They could put a wrong braking fluid in. For example, if your car needs DOT-4 (which has higher boiling point) and you put in DOT-3 this issue may happen. Or putting DOT-3 or DOT-4 in the brake system which requires DOT-5 can destroy all rubber parts. You need to replace the braking fluid asap and bleed the system again.

About the only thing left is to replace the caliper. I've seen a few times, but not common. Piston gets bound on corrosion in caliper and doesn't retract completely.

sounds like warped rotors have rotors turned/or replaced and put new pads on

I agree with what you were told about turning the rotors. With the lower cost of replacement rotors and the metal in the original rotors, does make them hard to turn and stay true.

Short of jacking up the wheel and putting a new car underneath, you've just about covered all the possibilities. But I wonder, perhaps in your attempts to solve this, if you have inadvertantly introduced another fault? As you know, the brake master cylinder on a disc braked vehicle has no static valve. If there were to be a static valve in the master cylinder, the brakes would lock on after a few pumps. But this would affect both front wheels. There could also be a collapsed section in one of the flexible hoses which would let fluid through for bleeding but not allow the fluid to return. this would hold the brake on too. When you had the cliper off, did the rotor trun freely?

i asume it has disk brakes, is so the cliper is sticking, very common on this truck.

Coleman & Sons
Holly, MI

on the wheel that is hot, jack it up and see it the wheel spins free or drags? if it drags, then loosen bleeder on the caliper, it if now spins free, you want to replace that caliper hose, if it is still dragging, then the caliper piston is stuck and you will need to replace it.

it is a torx bit for your caliper bolt.a size t50 if I am thinking right. use a good one as these can be hard to get broke loose.as far as rotors remove cliper slide bracket with an 18mm two bolts and rotor will slip off. might have to tap with a hammer

Remove wheel, brake cliper, cliper mounting bracket, brake pads and rotor.
Remove tie rod end and strut from spindle,
Remove large drive axle nut from center of hub by removing cotter pin and nut cover
Remove the ball joints 2 nuts and 1 bolt
Pull assy. lose from drive axle.
Take complete Hub assy with new bearing to an automotive machine shop and have them disassemble hub and replace bearing.
Reverse steps to reinstall

Sounds like your brake calibers are sticking. Get new ones and new pads. You probably should get new rotors also because with the dragging calibers they most likely got hot and are warped. Search on ebay and www.rockauto.com . I personally use power stop drilled and slotted rotors with mid grade pads. You can probably get a whole kit.