I replaced the timing belt on a 05 suzuki forenza and not i cannot figure out which mark to use on the exhaust cam pulley

Watch the video. Also make sure you replace the water pump. Suzuki Forenza timing belt and water pump replacement part 1 of 2

Here you go

what engine, most cars have many choices new.. what is yours.
"Displacement or VIN"
cam
or
spark?
btw its really a Daewoo Lacetti from S.Korea makers.
by a real FSM.
or got to alldata.com and read

here is the list of engines
1.4 L 93 bhp (69 kW) Petrol I4
1.6 L 109 bhp (81 kW) Petrol I4
1.8 L 120 bhp (89 kW) Petrol I4
2.0 L 132 bhp (98 kW) Petrol I4
2.0 L 121 bhp (90 kW) Petrol I4
2.0 L 121 bhp (90 kW) Diesel I4

before working on any car, engines. in the USA (where you?)
open hood, look up see that vacuum and smog tag there
and it tells you what engine you have,
than ask questions based on that.

the USA forenza uses the
The US model line features the 2.0 L 4-cylinder E-TEC II made by General Motors, developing a maximum power of 132 horsepower at 5600 rpm.

this is a DOHC engine, 2 cams
and a belt (rubber band engine)
cam timng, im not repeating the 38 steps in the manual or torques/
but the crank cog mark is down aligned with the bottom pan mark
the cams are both at 12pm, aligned with markes on back top pan.

install (cut and past just first 8 steps) 2.0L E-tec II only)

1. align the timing mark on the crankshaft gear with the notch on the bottom of the rear timing belt cover.
2. Align the timing marks on the camshaft gears, using the intake gear mark for the intake gear and the exhaust gear mark for the exhaust gear.
3. Install the timing belt.
4. Turn the hex-key tab in a clockwise direction to tension the belt. Turn until the pointer aligns with the notch.
5. Install the automatic tensioner bolt and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
6. Rotate the crankshaft two full turns clockwise using the crankshaft pulley bolt.
7. Recheck the automatic tensioner pointer.
8. Install the front timing belt cover.

Think the timing belt jumped a few teeth

Now you have to replace the timing belt,water pump & pulleys,
and you have overheated & ruined the exhaust converters &
oxygen sensors as well

Hope that is all

$1,500 maybe you'll be good to go

Instructions

• Disconnect the negative cable on your car battery. Make sure to wait for the engine of your Suzuki Forenza to cool off completely before you start working on it.
  
• 2Rotate the engine using a wrench attached to a crankshaft bolt. Align the timing mark on the pulley to the 0o mark on the scale.
  
• 3
  
• Remove the screws and the bolts that hold the timing cover in its place and take the cover off. Loosen the bolts that hold the spring-loaded tensioner of the timing belt a little. Pull the tensioner away from the timing belt and then tighten the bolts again.
  
• 4Pry off the timing belt from the pulley channels and the camshaft sprocket with a flat head screwdriver. Set the old timing belt aside and compare it with the new belt. The new belt should have the same width as with the old timing belt and the inside surface of both belts should have the same size of teeth.
  
• 5Put the new timing belt on the sprockets and make sure it is positioned correctly. Loosen the bolts that hold the tensioner and pull the tensioner toward the timing belt.
  
• 6Adjust the timing of the belt. Strictly follow the instructions on the Suzuki Forenza manual. When the timing is set, check if the timing marks on the can, crank and sprockets are still aligned.
  
• 7Turn the engine with the wrench on the crankshaft pulley two whole circles until you reach the 0o mark.
  
• 8Reinstall the timing cover and tighten the screws and bolts that hold the cover in its place.
  
• 9Reconnect the negative cable on your car battery. Put the key in the ignition and start the car to check if the timing belt replacement was successful and that the car is running properly.
  

REMOVAL
1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Loosen power steering lock bolts and nuts accordingly and remove tension from power steering (P/S) and/or air conditioning (A/C) compressor drive belt.
3. Remove P/S and/or A/C drive belt.
4. Loosen generator mounting bolts and adjusting bolt.
5. Remove generator bolts.
6. Remove water pump pulley.
7. Remove crankshaft pulley.
8. Remove upper and lower timing belt covers.
9. Turn crankshaft so that timing mark on timing belt pulley is aligned with timing mark on engine.
10. Check that "I" mark on intake camshaft pulley is aligned with mark on seal plate and "E" mark on exhaust camshaft pulley is aligned with mark on seal plate.
Do not move camshaft or crankshaft once timing marks have been correctly positioned.
11. Loosen tensioner pulley lock bolt.
12. Protect timing belt with a rag.
13. Remove tensioner pulley.
14. Remove timing belt. Mark the direction of timing belt rotation (on the timing belt) for proper reinstallation.

INSTALLATION
1. Install tensioner pulley. Replace tensioner spring whenever timing belt is replaced.
2. Pull tensioner pulley to its furthest point and tighten lock bolt.
3. Check that timing mark on timing belt pulley is aligned with timing mark on engine.
4. Check that "I" mark on intake camshaft pulley is aligned with mark on seal plate and "E" mark on exhaust camshaft pulley is aligned with mark on seal plate.
If existing timing belt is being reused, install belt in proper rotation direction marked prior to removal.
5. Install timing belt onto timing belt pulley first, then idler pulley, exhaust camshaft pulley, intake camshaft pulley, and tensioner pulley in that order.
6. Check that there is no looseness in belt between idler pulley and exhaust camshaft pulley or between intake and exhaust camshaft pulleys.
7. Loosen tensioner pulley lock bolt and allow tensioner spring to apply tension to timing belt.
Do not add additional tension.
8. Tighten tensioner pulley lock bolt to specified torque.
Tightening torque:28~38 lb-ft (38~51 N·m, 3.9~5.2 kg-m)
9. Rotate crankshaft two full revolutions (clockwise only) and align timing mark on timing belt pulley with timing mark on engine block.
10. Check that "I" mark on intake camshaft pulley and "E" mark on exhaust camshaft pulley are aligned with marks on seal plate.
11. If they are not aligned, remove timing belt and start process from tensioner installation.
12. Measure timing belt deflection by applying moderate pressure midway between camshaft pulleys. If deflection is not correct, repeat from tensioner installation.
Deflection pressure:22 Ib. (98 N, 10 kg)Deflection:0.39~0.50 in. (11~13 mm)
13. Install lower and upper timing belt covers in that order.
Tightening torque:5.8~8.0 Ib-ft (7.9~10.7 N·m, 0.8~1.1 kg-m)
14. Install timing belt guide plate and crankshaft pulley.
Tightening torque:9.0~12.6 lb-ft (12.3~17.2 N·m, 1.3~1.8 kg-m)
15. Install water pump pulley.
Tightening torque:9.0~12.6 lb-ft (12.3~17.2 N·m, 1.3~1.8 kg-m)
16. Install generator belt and adjust the tension.
17. Install P/S and/or A/C drive belt and adjust the tension.
18. Connect negative battery cable.

INSPECTION
Never forcefully twist, turn inside out or bend timing belt. Do not allow oil or grease to come in contact with timing belt.
1. Replace timing belt if it is contaminated with oil or grease.
2. Check timing belt for uneven wear, fraying, peeling, cracking and hardening. Replace timing belt as necessary.
3. Bend timing belt into a "U" shape as shown in figure. Distance "A" must be at least 1.0 in (25 mm).
4. Inspect both idler pulley and tensioner pulley for uneven wear and smooth bearing operation.
5. Inspect camshaft pulleys and timing belt pulley for broken teeth or damage.
Replace any component that shows damage, excessive wear, or that appears prone to a possible failure.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

There should be little marks that you lineup for each gear line them up and install the timing belt.

I hop you are replacing the belt and tensioner/ idler pulleys. the crank pulley has a notch approx 12'oclock. the cams will be marked rear cam "I" and front cam "E" .. put both letters at 12 o clock. there should be a notch at the top of the cover for the cams at 12 o clock. thats all there is to it. to tension the belt, after you have it all timed up. put some tension on it, tighten tensioner bolt, turn the engine 2 revolutions, then double check your marks, push down with you thumb between the cam sprokets with 20 lbs of force, the belt should delfect about 10MM if its too loose, loosen the tensione rbolt an dturn it tighter a little more an dck tension again. If you get it too tight it will whine and wear the cam journals, too loose and timing will not be correct.

here is the entire procedure tart to finish.
Required tools:
13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers
If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.
Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponding line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple.
In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long.
One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it

Required tools:
13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers
If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.
Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponding line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple.
In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long.
One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it