2002 Mazda Tribute Logo
Anonymous Posted on Sep 27, 2011

Rough engine wet weather - 2002 Mazda Tribute

  • Anonymous Sep 27, 2011

    I have a 3.0L. The engine light has stayed on, but the code was cleared when they looked and it had only been driven maybe 12 miles total. They looked same day?? today the engine light flashed on and off

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  • Master 4,803 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 27, 2011
Anonymous
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So whip out some sandpaper and some elbow grease to smooth out the engine and get onto the weather people to get that weather changed! Just kidding! :)

It sounds like you are getting an engine misfire. If it is bad enough, it SHOULD be turning the check engine light on. Something is breaking down when wet like an ignition coil or a spark plug wire. It's really hard to tell you how to check your vehicle for this without knowing which engine your vehicle is eqipped with. The 3.0L engine has coil-on-plug ignition and does not even have ignition cables to check. The 2.0L engine does, however. Either engine could be collecting moisture in the boot area at the spark plug.
If your check engine light is coming on, the fault codes stored in the computer will be able to point you to the cylinder (cylinders) that is (are) having the problem.

  • 4 more comments 
  • Anonymous Sep 28, 2011

    There should be codes present if your check engine light is coming on while driving. If there are no codes, there are several reasons this could happen:
    1. The codes that are present are "manufacturer specific" codes and the person scanning your engine computer is using a "generic" OBD code reader. Most generic code readers CANNOT retrieve these types of codes.

    2. The code reader that is being used is set for automatic code clearing. Some code readers have this option for when you are wanting to look at engine data that will not be accurate with codes present. I have forgotten and left my scanner in this mode before. It is handy if you have already recorded the codes and are continuing with diagnosis, but can mess you up if you forget and leave it in this mode when you go to scan the next car. It will clear the codes, then show you the engine data...coll feature unless it is the codes you actually want to see....Not all scanners have this feature.
    3. Your problem may be caused by intermittent power loss to the engine computer. I have seen things like aftermarket alarm and remote start systems cause this, as well as faulty ignition switches or corroded connectors inthe wiring system. Faukts like these are the reason that you should perform a COMPLETE NETWORK scan. By this I mean scan ALL of the computer modules in your vehicle, including the Body Control Module, The Antilock Brake Module, The Instrument Cluster Module, The Passive Restraint Module, etc.. Sometimes a loss of power at the engine computer will set communications fault errors in the other modules. These communications faults can be clues to what is actually causing your problem. Another way to verify if this could possibly be the problem is to check your OBD readiness monitors when or just before you scan for codes. If there are no codes present and there are several monitors that show "incomplete" or "not ready", then it is because the computer has been reset. Intermittent power loss can cause the computer to reset on its own.
    4. Your problem could also be caused by charging system problems such as a shorted battery cell or bad diodes in the alternator. This can cause the source voltage to the computer to become erratic and can cause the computer to do all kinds of weird things.
    5. You COULD have a defective engine computer. These are pretty rare, and I have seen too many techs that jump to conclusions and replace them way too often - much of the time, it doesn't fix a thing because they overlook BASIC things like the charging ststem before making these decisions. However, engine control computers do fail, and this could be an explaination of what is going on with your vehicle.

  • Anonymous Sep 28, 2011

    P.S. I can't belive I said all of that without saying this:
    If the check engine light is coming on and there are no codes present, then THAT is what needs to be diagnosed. The fact that it happens only in wet weather can be a clue as to why that is happening - like an intermittent loss of power to the engine computer because of water getting into a connector...

  • Anonymous Sep 28, 2011

    Hi again Debbie,

    I did a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) search for your vehicle. I DID find one that very wel could apply to your situation. Here is a brief description of the issue and the TSB reference number:

    DESCRIPTION

    Some vehicles may exhibit a Powertrain Control Module (PCM) concern that results in no crank, no start, or malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on with one or more Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) present. There may also be intermittent or inoperative power windows, door locks, keyless entry system, lighting, speed control, radio, instrument cluster warning lamps (possibly dimly illuminated instead of being off), or other electrical accessories. The concern is typically more noticeable in wet and/or cold weather conditions.

    TSB: 01-047/06
    APPLICABLE MODELS: 2001 - 2004 Tribute

  • Anonymous Sep 28, 2011

    I should be getting the system check out first. The engine is running rough and "sputtering" still....so once the system is checked then see what the readings maybe? If I understand correcting the garage needs to check their equipment also. Thanks!

  • Anonymous Sep 28, 2011

    Yes, that is correct. The garage needs to make sure that their scanner is not set on "automatic code clearing" (IF their scanner even HAS this feature) Then, If the check engine light has been coming on there should be codes present, They need to scan ALL modules. If there are no codes present in the Engine Control Module, They need to check the OBD monitors to see if they are "Incomplete" or "Not Ready" This will tell you if the engine control module is resetting for some reason. In any case, If the check engine light has been coming on (even for a few seconds) while driving, there should be one or more codes set. If there are no codes, then they need to find out WHY there are no codes...Finding this out and repairing the problem will most likely fix your vehicle.

  • Anonymous Oct 11, 2011

    Hi Debbie,
    Just checking back with you. Any luck?

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