Do an obd scan Intermittent spark or fuel should be caught by the on board computer
Hello wbrown666... The triton v10 has had a history of stalling, in most cases the TPS (throttle position sensor) has been the problem. Some have been the PCM and speed sensor, located on the differential. Ford issued a tech bulletin on the throttle sensor.
I would recommend you run a diagnostic scan & get the freeze frame data. From that data troubleshooting would be much more precise, rather than just guessing and replacing parts blindly. It could be something like the ignition switch, causing the truck to momentarily lose power & stall.
I hope this helps.
P0320 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction
Check the camshaft position sensor. here is how to test it.
Camshaft Position Test Method:
TESTING : 1- Check for battery voltage to the camshaft position sensor with the ignition key ON (engine not running ). 2- Remove the camshaft sensor from the engine and place it on a clean workbench. Check the AC voltage output . Connect the probes of a voltmeter set on the AC scale onto the camshaft sensor and observe that it produces a voltage pulse as a metal object is passed over the tip of the sensor . If no pulsing voltage signal is produced (if the camshaft sensor does not exhibit any reaction as the magnatic field is broken ) , then replace the camshaft sensor .
If that tests ok, then the Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor would be next.
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Sounds like an electrical problem. Check that battery cables are tight (both ends) and the plastic insulation is good everywhere. A short can kill the engine with some bucking. If it just shuts down ike the key was turned off, check your ignition module (computer) is plugged in securely and check your coil wire is tightly plugged in ( on your distributor). Look for broken insulation on all wires.
Odd. I really don't know where to go with that information. Idont know what to suggest.
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Hi, have you tried swapping out the PCM power relay? You can borrow the washer relay to see if this will clear up the problem. If it doesn't we'll need to go thru standard no-start troubleshooting procedure. Check for sparks, fuel, etc. I can give you those instructions next if the relay swap doesn't fix you up.![I HAVE A FORD F350 V10 [GAS] THAT WILL SHUT DOWN - jturcotte_2280.gif](/uploads/images/jturcotte_2280.gif)
I'll be here tomorrow if you have trouble
:o)
OK, we need to narrow down the problem a bit. Can you do a spark test for me? Remove the coil on plug from one cylinder and hold the metal tip close to the engine while someone cranks the starter. If that's good then check for fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel rail. Please see my tip at
You might want to also try swapping the fuel pump relay.
. These are genericinstructions.
You might want to also try swapping the fuel pump relay.
yes, I understand--it runs good when it runs but when it's a bit warm, it stops. That is why I'm focusing on relays. When a relay coil gets weak, the increased resistance due to warming will cause it to cut off. My problem is without a bit more troubleshooting, I cannot figure out which relay is bad.If there is a schrader valve on the fuel rail, you could just push in the stem to see if there is pressure. I'm not concerned about the exact pressure, as your pump is new. I'm only trying to see if the relay is shutting off and causing the pressure to drop to zero. Sorry I didn't explain all this before.
OK, so when it shuts down it starts to hesitate like it's lost fuel pressure? I'm going to look at the diagrams again to see if I can get more ideas.
Is your "check engine" coming on before it dies?
OK, do you think you could make it to a parts store to get a scan? It would help me a lot if you could send me the trouble code.
yes, please send the code. The code should start with a "P" followed by 4 digits. There is nothing on the diagram that shouts out intermittent other than that PCM relay that you already swapped. Sorry, but I would be guessing to go farther without the code.
Hmmm...I answered you earlier today, but maybe my answer didn't post. These codes indicate an intermittent cam sensor signal. the cam sensor is on the driver's side valve cover. Take the connector off and check for corrosion and looseness of the terminals. Make sure the terminals are tight on the blades. I checked the cost, and a new sensor is only about $18, but the symptoms really point to the wiring/connections. One wire goes to power and one to the PCM.
If the connection and wires look good, run the tests by backprobing the connector. Put your black voltmeter probe to engine ground and turn the key on. You should get the power on one wire. The other wire is signal, and should have a small voltage while the engine is cranking. If you have power but no signal, take the sensor out and stick your finger in the hole to see if the tone sprocket is loose on the camshaft. If the sprocket is loose, you will need to pull the valve cover to see if it can be tightened. Get back to me for that procedure, if needed.
TESTING
Check voltage between the camshaft position sensor terminals PWR GND and CID.
With engine running, voltage should be greater than 0.1 volt AC and vary with engine speed.
If voltage is not within specification, check for proper voltage at the VPWR terminal.
If VPWR voltage is greater than 10.5 volts, sensor may be faulty.
Hi, please do note, that I don't believe the sensor is bad. I really think the problem is the connection.
If there is any damage to the connector, you should get a new connector rather than a new sensor.
OK, I still think you have a wiring problem. see if you can get it to stall by moving the wires. In this way, you may be able to find out where the problem is. Inspect the wires carefully. If you cannot get it to stall by moving the wires in the engine compartment, maybe the problem is near the computer. I will look up the location of the computer for you to check that too.
book says the computer is in the driver's side fenderwell. Look for a wad of wires coming up there and push them around with the engine running.
If it isn't there, look on the firewall by the brake booster. See if it's shoved in that way under the dash.
did you poke your finger in the sensor hole when you had it out to verify the sprocket inside is firm and not loose? I will take another look at the diagram.
Maybe I'm on the wrong track and you have intermittent loss of spark. Have you traced the wires from the crank sensor? The sensor is down at the crank pulley. See pic. That one would run you another $25. Again, if you take it out, inspect the connector pins and terminals and feel in the hole--this hole is a bit deeper, but you want to make sure there isn't something in there interfering with the sensor.
sorry, has to be a wiring issue. You'll have to run the engine and move wires around to make it stall. Find the computer in the wheel well and more the wires there too.
Take the skirt out of the wheel well and find these individual wires. They are the gray, dark blue and dark green from the sensors. Inspect them carefully to find a break under the insulation. If you have to disconnect the computer, always disconnect the battery first. If you cannot find the brake, start the truck and move the individual wires to see which one is causing it to stall. Repair by stripping the insulation on both sides of the break and soldering back together.
If you still cannot find a break in the wire, take the connectors off the computer and inspect the pins and terminals. Because of the location of this computer, there may be moisture in the connector. Inspect for corrosion and issues with the 3 particular sensor terminal.
some of them are in front of the emergency brake. Is there a big connector with about a hundred wires sticking out into the engine compartment?
OK, that's probably it. Can you find the dark blue, grey and dark green wires? There might be 2 gray wires. Inspect them and giggle them with the truck running.
OK, that is just weird. Were you able to identify the wires in question? Can you trace them to the sensors?
Well, at this point I am out of ideas, so I'm going to suggest you consult a Ford expert. We have a guy that has like 35 years experience with Fords. If any of us can figure this out, it's him. What you can do is cancel this question and then go to his ad. You have to use the ad to get him specifically--otherwise you will get whoever clicks on you question. Here is his ad, and I hope he can figure this out:
http://beta.fixya.com/marketplace/servic...
sorry, you are not caught in the system. You may have to ask for a refund on this one, so that you don't get charged for both this question and the ad. If you're lucky, maybe the next expert can solve it, but I think you are wasting time unless you get a Ford expert, like the one in the ad.
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i switched it with the blower motor relay, took it for a short ten min. ride for i live in
a rural area. no problems. i hope this was the ans. to my problem.
thanks
i switched the relays, drove about two miles when it shut down. i coasted back down
a hill and started the engine on the third try and drove it home.other times it would not
start until a few hours has past.
i swicthed the relays, took it for a spin- drove about 2 miles when it shut down. i coasted back down a hill and started the engine on the third try. in the past it would not start for a few hours.
the only time i have with the truck starting is after it shut down after running for a few minutes.
i have no way of checking fuel pressure at this time. let me say when it run it sound good
like it did before i started having problems.
i dont know if you got my last e-mail, so i will repeat that i am not having problems
with starting my truck i am having trouble keeping it running. at the moment i do not have
the equip. to test the fuel pressure.
i did what yiu said -there was pressure on the schader valve and i change the relays.
took it for a spin and it shut down twice. it feel like the gas is being shut off.
yes
i have a friend coming tomorrow with a obd2, will that work?
goodnite, talk with you tomorrow. thank alot
no dtc codes shows up on the scanner,but earlier we use the scanner and it had a code
#p320 and p340. that was a week ago. but nothing is showing up now.
i just put the scanneron and i got codes p0320 and p0340 also the truck did not start
i have been reading all i could about this sensor, so i am happy to see that you
think this might be my problem. will pick one up tomorrow and let you know if this
solved my problem. thanks and good night.
hello, i did replace the sensor and drove the truck about 30 miles. i made three
stops on the way with no problems, on the return trip home it stalled on me just five
mintues into the trip. i restarted the truck & drove home without problems. no dtc
showed on the scanner.
i am having problems with it running, it will start then shut down after a few
sec. i notice that the only time it will restart is after i have connected then disconnect
the scanner. which shows no dtcs. i did not see any defects in the wiring but i could
see them all.
i got it started,was running good, moved wired around did not notice anything,
i put the scanner on after shuting it off and got the code p0320.
will try tomorrow, thanks
just replace the crank sensor, drove it one mile when it shut off.
after about five minutes it started and i drove home. started it a couple
times with no problems. i never know how long before it shut down.
yes it did stalled when i moved the wires in the wheel well, once i get it started
again i will repeat this procedure. if it is the wiring what would you advise me?
we had rainy weather yesterday, here goes. i took the skirt off moved the wired
around nothing but it did shut down after running for 5 min. i noticed that the
fuel pump was running after it shut down. it ran for almost a mintue. are you sure
that the computer is in the wheel well? there is a black box in front of the emerg.
brake.
p.s had the code p0320 again.
yes
did what you asked, nothing. it ran its five min. shut down but started up on the first
try.
not sure, will try again tomorrow during daylight, good nite
thank you for everything, now how do i cancelled this question?
i have a f 350 {gas} 6.8 that will shut down anytime. i have replace the fuel pump & fuel filther.replace crank & cam sensors.at this moment code p0320 is showing.it will start then shut down after running for five minute. a couple of times it has has ran longer {30min}or more.
i'm back, check the thing you asked of me and found nothing, how do i get to the computer
connections?
mark, i noticed today that after my truck shuts down, it will not restart right away.
but if i put my ob2 scan on it and try for a dtc and removed the scan it will start right
up. it has done this three times.
i replace the speed sensor and got the same result, could you please tell
me what the code p0320 means?. this one code keep showing up. there
is nothing on my ob2 at the moment but this keeps returning.
i still do not know what this mean. thank you
i have the same problem but when it stalls you can not restart the truck all all. seems like the battery is completely dead
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