A new knock sensor was installed, new air filter, new hose-old was leaking antifreeze. The engine light went off but came back on 30 to 40 minutes later. The computer was reset on two different occassion. I took my vehicle to Advance and these are the codes:p0328,p0442 and p0456. Please advise.

Check for intake leaks, intake hose leaks, check mass air flow sensor.
02 sensors will keep setting off a lean code until the air problem is fixed.

follow your upper radiator hose from the radiator back to the engine. At that point remove the hose and replace it. Put it back together , fill up the antifreeze and you are ready to go.

First with the engine cool, drain some of the antifreeze from the radiator. Second, take the hose clamp off of the upper radiator hose on the engine side and slide the hose off the water neck, some antifreeze might spill out. Third, remove the two bolts that hold the water neck and remove the waterneck, some antifreeze may spill out. Fourth, remove the old thermostat and o-ring , clean the sealing surface and install the new thermostat and o-ring the same way it came out. Last just reverse the procedure to get it back together, tightening the two waterneck bolts to 18 ft. Lbs. Fill with 50/50 antifreeze and water start it up and check for leaks. And you are done. Should only take about 20-30 minutes

A vacuum hose cut will cause a lot of symptoms, A code indicating a rich conditions indicates a lack of air, or too much fuel. A dirty air filter or a leaking injector will cause this. A faulty O2 sensor will also cause this condition.

To me antifreeze smells like cat wee but look for oil leaking from there on to the exhaust. I would assume something is leaking on to the exhaust then burning off

Depending on what year and model, you may be able to check the ECM for trouble codes yourself. Either way you need to know what the codes are.
My guess would be they disconnected the air temp sensor in the air filter box. Look for a sensor in the air filter or the hose going out to the front of the engine compartment that is missing a plug.

When you removed the old battery and installed the new one, you effectively reset your Check Engine Light-until the fault (I assume it was a fault for the O2 sensor) reset. A new O2 sensor, installed should run you somewhere in the neighborhood of $70 to $125 depending on how difficult it is to get to, what brand is purchased-there are wide variations and some places will use 'universal' O2's to cut costs.with mixed results. A new O2 sensor will react more quickly to engine demands and conditions, allowing the car's computer to adjust parameters more rapidly and efficently translating into better fuel mileage. The antifreeze leak is hard to predict since you did'nt say where it was coming from-if it is a radiator or water pump, in the low hundreds. If it is a heater core, in the mid-high hundreds, maybe worse, they can be a bear especially on fords. A hose is usually easier and less costly. The big thing about coolant leaks is they can get much worse, and dramatically too. Y ou don't ever want it to overheat an engine that is aluminum-if it does overheat it probably will never be the same. Pay careful attention to the temp gague until you can correct this, it is much more important to fix this first.

I would check for visible cracks and leaking at the overflow tank when the engine is cold, then when the engine is running and at operating temperature and not running and at operating temperature as well as during cool down. Also check the coolant overflow hose for leaks or obstructions inside the hose or if the hose is kinked. Check to make sure that the overflow tank cap is damage free and securely fastened.

If you have some common tools the knock sensors are no big deal.  If you take a lexus they will make is sound like you need to completely disassemble the engine and scare you off.
First, do you really have a problem with preignition causing real knocking due to carbon buildup, or diluted gasoline or do you have failed knock sensor(s).  Try to decarbon the engine first.
There is a technique used with water being sprayed into a warm engine intake.  This will clean up the valves and carbon buildup which can result in engine knocking.  

The job will be a couple hundred for the parts and a couple hours of your time.  After you are done, you have entitled yourself to approximately $500 in new tools for your tool chest since this is what Toyota and Lexus will charge to fix (about $1k+).

You will need to buy the following to address the knock sensors and a couple other items while you're in the neighborhood.
- 1x upper intake plenum gaskets - 2x lower intake plenum gasket - coolant bypass hose found in the same area as knock sensors - 2x knock sensors (bank1 and bank2) - short pig tail cable which connects both knock sensors to common wire harness. - toyota antifreeze  (2 gallons, if i remember correctly... when mixed to 50/50 (antifreeze/ water) you will have 4 gallons.
drain the radiator drain the front of the engine using the engine drain plug - this plug is on the front right side facing the engine, behind the right hand exhaust manifold. (this will lower antifreeze enough to avoid dumping antifreeze all over the engine later) remove the air filter box remove the connections into the throttle body remove the cable from the throttle control remove the upper air intake plenum remove the two lower air intake plenums remove the antifreeze fill port
Knock sensors will be in the valley between the lower intake plenums.  You will need to remove the rubber antifreeze bypass hose (little short hose blocking access to the knock sensors).
By the way, the reason you bought a replacement, is that if this short hose splits from normal wear, you need to spend this money and effort to reach it, so just do it now.
The little pig tail cable which connects both knock sensors to the wire harness is said to cause a big majority of the problem due to the plastic getting hot and brittle, falling off and shorting to the engine.  While in this mode the engine thinks knock is occuring and starts to retune the air fuel mixture to get rid of the knock until it goes into minimal operations mode.
After replacing the knock sensors (and tighten to torque specs), replacing pig tail cable, and reinstalling your new short by pass hose.  Replace the lower gaskets, antifreeze fill port, lower intakes, upper gasket, upper intake, air intake, air filter, reattach everything, reconnect all the rubber lines you pulled off, make sure there are no splits in the air intake passage anywhere, retighten the engine antifreeze drain plug, and the drain on the bottom of your radiator, and your done!
Don't forget the easy stuff.  Dilute the antifreeze with water and fill the radiator and overflow tub.  Run the engine for several minutes until its hot and opens the thermistat to allow antifreeze into the empty engine cavities.  Turn the engine off and get a cold one as the engine cools.  Once absolutely sure engine is cold, refill the radiator with antifreeze and refill the reserve tub.  Do this at until all the beer is gone and you are both full of antifreeze (in one form or another)..... obviously red stuff in the car, amber down the gut.

I have never heard of a knock sensor, the engine light on is usually do to a fuel air problem such has o2 sensors gas caps not sealing right or mass air flow sensors, the a/c problem sounds like if there are no leaks in system then your high low sensors one of them could have failed or your system froze up and needs to thaw if it froze let sit you will see a puddle of water on ground passenger side under vehicle close to engine this is from the evaporator if it froze up it will not allow air flow to go through it therefore you will get only heat turn heater on this will help thaw the evaporator quicker this freezing is usually due to an overcharged system or a system that is contaminated and needs flushed vacuemed and recharged.