My 94 ford probe 4 cyl wont stay running I believe its a lack of the engine getting fuel, after idling the car will try and stall unless I give it some gas, I cant find the fuel pump relay, Maybe the fuel filter is bad? I do not know I just bought the car and need to get it in running shape.

Okay first of all I want you to do a couple of things to get this problem fixed the first is understand if it's running foot on gas it's not the relay it's working ok now changing the fuel filter is must for any new car you just got so you know how long it's been in and can be ruled out next your problem can be 1 of 7(1) clean out the throttle body with a cleaner built up varnish and dirt will cause poor running and stalling (2) check all vacuum lines for cracking or breaks///to also find them take a long enough piece of rubber hose and put 1 end in your ear YES I SAID THAT and put cotton or paper towel in your other one to block outside noise you are making a stethoscope for listening to hissing vacuum leaks from the lines and the throttle body this is a trick I'm teaching you that you'll use for the rest of time (3)take out your spark plugs and inspect them for proper gap any insulator cracking and replace or just regap them cleaning the electrodes of any possible debris inspect the ignition wires for soft Splitting boots by flexing them back and forth and the wires themselves for burns in the jackets and also flex to check for brittleness. (4) observe the coil pack with a magnifying glass and look for cracks in the towers and the whole housing//// also if you have a garage look at the coil pack in the dark any escaping voltage will show itself if no garage a blanket at night ime will do tape it down to avoid flapping in the wind and any hazard of getting hurt if it's a old one poke holes in it and tie it down around you or just pick a very dark location to check for escaping spark (5) now after this process of eliminating other possible causes and your motor still is doing the same thing running only with gas peddle and not at idle your idle air control valve is shot and possibly your throttle position sensor the contact inside could be worn at the idle spot but if you Rev the motor and it runs for 3-4 seconds then dies it's not the throttle position sensor and now it's time to spend $$$ on the idle air control valve make sure when you change it to position the gasket correctly DO NOT USE RTV OR ANY SEALER WHATSOEVER JUST POSITION AND TIGHTEN PROPERLY AFTER START AND SEE IF IT KEEPS RUNNING IT SHOULD BUT IF FOR SOME REASON IT DOESN'T THEN CHANGE THE THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR AND YOU SHOULD BE DONE WITH THE PROBLEM (6)after we have the Ole girl running now take 2 cans of Berrimans B12 Chem tool fuel system cleaner and put it in the tank this double shot will clean out anything in the lines the rest of the throttle body and it will give a higher temperature flame in the exhaust that will help with cleaning out the catalytic convertor combined with a full tank of premium gas like shell,exxon,mobile,bpor sunoco 93 octane Do not use cheap no name gas and the Berrimans is cleaning out that junk so you would contradict what your doing these high-quality fuels have detergents in them and the 93 octane/Berrimans combo is exactly what your motor wants and needs now go cruising on the highway for 5-10 miles each way so you understand what's happening with the fuel the higher the octane level the more stable and slower the fuel burns and with the Berrimans your getting optimal cleaning of your whole fuel and emission system and now that we have a very good running motor and the problems are solved there's one more thing to do and your done (7) I want you to buy carbon conductive grease from an electronics store or from the NET DO NOT USE ANYTHING ELSE OK IT'S IMPORTANT THAT YOU STAY WITH ME HERE ON THIS AND I'LL EXPLAIN WHY ALL OTHERS ARE NOT FOR THIS JOB CARBON CONDUCTIVE GREASE IS THE ABSOLUTE BEST FOR SENSORS CONTACTS AND SWITCHES ////DIELECTRIC GREASE IS A MOISTURE BARRIER GREASE FOR IGNITION IT DOES NOT TRANSFER CURRENT AND YOU WILL HAVE PROBLEMS WITH OTHERS FOR THE SAME REASON AND ALSO THERE MELTING POINT WILL BE A MUCH LOWER TEMPERATURE AND CAUSE IT TO LIQUIFY AND RUN WHICH WILL CAUSE POSSIBLE GROUNDING AND CIRCUITS TO JUMP TO EACH OTHER SHORTING OUT COMPONENTS SO ONLY CARBON CONDUCTIVE GREASE OK!///UNPLUG EACH SENSOR AND WITH A TOOTHPICKS WORTH AT A TIME PUT THE GREASE INTO EACH PIN IN THE PLUG A LITTLE GOES A LONG WAY SO USE IT AT A DOTS WORTH FOR EACH PIN AND PUT THE PLUG IN THEN REMOVE IT AGAIN TO MAKE SURE NO GREASE IS SQUEEZING OUT IF SO CLEAN IT BUT THERE SHOULDN'T BE BECAUSE YOU USED A DOTS WORTH RIGHT! AND NOW GO TO EVERY SENSOR PLUG AND DO THE SAME THING /////WHAT YOUR DOING IS GIVING YOUR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM A TUNE UP YEP THAT'S RIGHT AND WHY? Well because your engine runs on gas but its controlled by electrical voltage from the sensors around the engine and by lubricating the sensor plugs with the right grease you have now brought the connections around the engines sensors to the optimum and the results will be better mpgs and a much better signal transfer back to the computer (ECM) SO IT CAN ADJUST AND OPERATE YOUR ENGINE AT ITS OPTIMAL LEVELS AS IT WAS DESIGNED TO OPERATE ALSO A LESS CHANCE OF SENSOR FAILURE BECAUSE THE SIGNAL FROM THE ECM IS RECEIVED IN THE 100'S/OF A SECOND AS ITS SUPPOSED TO SO EVERTHINGS FUNCTIONING PRECISELY AS IT SHOULD ///////so you know where this info is coming from I'm a taxi mechanic in nyc.with 50 years experience in all phases of the automobile mechanics and we have vehicles with 300,000-400,000+ miles on the original motors and I picked your question because you were a little off the beaten path with the relay and now you and anyone else who reads this thread will now be on the yellow brick road now just joking good luck and enjoy the learning process and experience and and always write down what you're doing as a record for your knowledge later stephen