99 Suburban solenoid gets hot with just the positive connected to it. Plus without the ign wire connected as soon as i connect the pos cable back to the batt the starter turns without evan a key in the ign. Help

get a horn button (large black push only) n run one wire to pos term on bat n other to pos connection on coil (marked ign)...mount horn button inside where itz handy to get to n simply push the button to start vehicle n of course release it as soon as vehicle startz...make sure you remove the old ign wire from the coil b 4 u hook up ur new wire...

my 1999 chevy suburban will start with starter fluid bbut wont stay running already replaced coil,rotor on distribitor,and oil pump cant seem to figure it out any ideas

The solenoid has two large terminals--one side goes only to the starter motor. The other side gets the positive battery cable plus 1 or 2 small wires with large-hole ring-terminals. The small terminal should have only one small wire with a push-on connection. If you had hooked the cable to the starter side, as soon as the battery was completely connected, the starter would run. Hope this helps!

I have provided an image that will assist you and it will connect like so;

1. Connection 1 should have the Pos. (+) battery cable and all of the wires with the large eyelet connectors from the wiring harness connected to it, except for the large cable that runs down to the starter.

2. Connection 2 should only have the large cable going down to the starter connected to it, and there should be no other wire connected there.

3. Connection 3 is the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid, and it is the wire with the small push on connector that is hot only when the key is in the "start" position, usually it is a red wire with a blue stripe, but that is not always the case.

4. Connection 4 is the "I" connection on the starter solenoid and it feeds current back into the ignition, and it is not used on a lot of vehicles after 1981, but if your vehicle has it it will be a small push on connector that will not have any power from it at all, and it will usually be a black wire with a white stripe, but that is not always so.

If your vehicle has a starter solenoid out by the battery and fender well, then I have provided an image that will assist you and it will connect like so;

1. Connection 1 should have the Pos. (+) battery cable and all of the wires with the large eyelet connectors from the wiring harness connected to it, except for the large cable that runs down to the starter.

2. Connection 2 should only have the large cable going down to the starter connected to it, and there should be no other wire connected there.

3. Connection 3 is the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid, and it is the wire with the small push on connector that is hot only when the key is in the "start" position, usually it is a red wire with a blue stripe, but that is not always the case.

4. Connection 4 is the "I" connection on the starter solenoid and it feeds current back into the ignition, and it is not used on a lot of vehicles after 1981, but if your vehicle has it it will be a small push on connector that will not have any power from it at all, and it will usually be a black wire with a white stripe, but that is not always so.



If the starter in your vehicle has the solenoid mounted on the starter then it will connect in a similar way, and the Pos. (+) battery cable along with all of the wires that have the large eyelet connectors on them will be connected together on the upper large terminal on the starter solenoid, and the wire with the smaller eyelet connector on it will be connected to the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid, and the "I" terminal if it even has one should not be used.

It could be any of the following,

1. The field wire to the starter (the wire that is hot when you turn the ignition switch to the start position, and should be connected to the "S" on the solenoid) has the wire connector pushed over and touching against the main connection and battery cable on the solenoid, or has insulation missing somewhere on the wire and the exposed wire is touching together with an exposed wire from one of the constantly hot wires from the main battery connection on the solenoid.

2. The ignition switch is stuck in the start position (the switch itself, not the key and tumbler) however if you were not having a problem with the ignition switch before you replaced the starter then it is unlikely to be the problem.

3. The starter solenoid is defective. This does happen once in a while and you should be able to have the starter tested where you bought it from.

If your battery is fully charged, then it sounds like one of the connections are loose or corroded, or a bad fusible link at the starter solenoid.

If this is an older ford, mid 70's or older then the solenoid is located out under the hood usually on the passenger side fender area, and the POS. (+) battery cable will lead straight to it.

There are two main (large connectors) on the solenoid, and there is one or two smaller connectors on the solenoid.

All of your hot wires to the vehicle should be connected with the POS. (+) battery cable and connected with a nut (usually a 1/2 inch nut) on one side of the solenoid (large connection), and the cable to the starter should be the only thing connected to the other side of the solenoid (other large connection).

There should also be one or two other small wires with push on connectors, one is from the ignition switch and has power to it when you turn the ignition switch to the start position. This is usually a red or orange wire with a white stripe, and should be connected to the "S" connector on the solenoid. The other wire if it has it (not on all vehicles) will usually be dark green or black with a white stripe and it should be connected to the "I" connector on the solenoid.

1. Connect a test light to a good ground.

2. Pull the wire off of the solenoid "S" connector and place the end of the test light into the end of the wire connector and turn the ignition switch to the start position, the test light should light up when the key is in the start position.

If the test light does light up with the key in the start position then it is the solenoid or the starter that has a problem.

Use a piece of 10 GA. or 12 GA. wire and jumper between the battery cable side of the solenoid, and the "S" connector on the solenoid, if the starter works then there is a poor connection on the battery cable side of the solenoid (clean and tighten the connections there), or a burned up fusible link on the battery cable side of the solenoid, or the ignition switch itself is bad.

If the test light does not light up when the key is in the start position, and all of the connectors are clean and tight, and all of the fusible links are good on the battery cable side of the solenoid, then the ignition switch is the problem.

Use the wire to jumper between the battery cable side of the solenoid straight across to the other side of the solenoid to the cable that goes down to the starter, if the starter works then the solenoid is the problem, if the starter does not work being directly jumped then the starter is the problem.

Logically, if there is power at the solenoid all the time there is a problem with the brake switch assembly or wiring. If not, the solenoid may simply be stuck in the activated position.

Battery cables can be purchased at any auto parts store. Always remove the Negative cable first. The positive cable connects to the solenoid to the starter. After removing both cables, connect the positive cable to eh solenoid to the starter, and route it up to the battery. If the new battery has protective caps on it, leave them on for now. Connect the negative cable to the ground. Connect the positive cable to the battery (remove the caps) Once secure, connect the negative cable to the battery (be very careful not to touch anything metal) IMPORTANT: Make sure the Positve cable is connected tot eh Positeve battery terminal (indicated by the + sign. The Negative cable connects to teh Negative post indicated by the - sign. I hope this answers your question fully and best of luck to you!
Greg

On most climate control systems you must have the ignition switch in the on position when you put the battery cables back on the battery. Then let the car sit for about 1 minute for reset. Put the neg cable on first then the pos cable on last .This should do it
good luck