I'm being told I need to have the rear cambers replaced during my alignment because they are off by some measurement and this is causing my rear tires to cup.

It sounds like the vehicle has been in an accident and is not straight.

Take it to a body shop with a box of donuts and a tray of coffee and ask if they can have a quick look and tell you if the vehicle has been in an accident. They have laser tools that check 'straightness'. They might also do Laser Wheel alignment, which is the new technology.

It does appear to be a long way out from a quick read here

https://www.google.com/search?q=2007+Toyota+Avalon+XLS+Front+axle+Right+camber+measurement+before+-3.27


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The first thing to do is to have your alignment checked again. Wear on the inside edge usually points to an excessive negative camber problem caused by a bent suspension component or something like a worn ball joint. In some cases it can be caused by excessive toe out.
Alignment shop will be able to diagnose what is causing the neg camber.
Throwing parts at it is not a good idea could be just one part or multiple parts acting together. That's why a reputable alignment shop is in order.

It sound like the Camber is off in the rear. Did you have an alignment done after the new struts wear installed?

Are you sure it's the 'camber' needs adjusting? Camber is the measured distance between the two front wheels at the top AND the bottom, measured ACROSS the car.
The most common adjustment used is 'Toe'. It's the same method of measurement as camber BUT is at the Front and Rear edges of the front wheels. (Think of your own feet. toes in, / \. Toes out, \ /).
That hit you mentioned to the left side of the car might also have bent something else, like suspension or chassis.
Get a GOOD wheel alignment specialist to look at it.

if you don`t rotate the tires this can cause abnormal tire wear.but with tire wear on the outer 1/2 of the tire indicates either the camber setting is off or you could have bad rear springs changing the ride height of the car causing the change in camber.to find out you would have to have a 4 wheel alignment done to check rear alignment readings.if the springs are worn then the ride height can be checked with a tape measure and compared to specs,if off then the springs should be changed along with the rear shocks.

what you need is an alignment. to have an alignment done, no parts need to be replaced. the car is put on a machine which measures 3 things on the wheels. then after the measurments are in, the suspension is adjusted, which makes your tire wear even. but like i said, no place needs to be replaced for an alignment. unless the part is visually damaged or making unusual noises it shouldnt need to be replaced. also, regular mechanics usually dont have the equipment to measure if your alignment is off or not. which means you have to take it to an alignment specialist, and they should give you a price of how much it should cost. usually is around 100 dollars for one pair of wheels(front or back) and should be under 200 for both front and back. hope this helps, goodluck.

Before making wheel alignment adjustment, perform the following checks:

1. Tires should be equal in size and runout must not be excessive. Tires and wheels should be in balance, and inflated to manufacturer's specifications.


2. Wheel bearings must be properly adjusted. Steering linkage and suspension must not have excessive looseness. Check for wear in tie rod ends and ball joints.
3. Steering gear box must not have excessive play. Check and adjust to manufacturer's specifications.
4. Vehicle must be at curb height with full fuel load and spare tire in vehicle. No extra load should be on vehicle.
5. Vehicle must be level with floor and with suspension settled. Jounce front and rear of vehicle several times and allow it to settle to normal curb height.
6. If steering wheel is not centered with front wheels in straight-ahead position, correct by shortening one tie rod adjusting sleeve and lengthening opposite sleeve equal amounts.
7. Ensure wheel lug nuts are tightened to torque specifications

Ride Height Adjustment

Before adjusting alignment, check riding height. Riding height must be checked with vehicle on level floor and tires properly inflated. Passenger and luggage compartments must be unloaded. Bounce vehicle several times, and allow suspension to settle. Visually inspect vehicle from front to rear and from side to side for signs of abnormal height.
Measure riding height. See figure. Riding height between left and right sides of vehicle should vary less than 1′ (25.4 mm). If riding height is not within specification, check suspension components and repair or replace them as necessary.
Wheel Alignment Procedures

Honda recommends using commercially available computerized 4-wheel alignment equipment. Follow equipment manufacturer instructions to obtain vehicle alignment settings. Use following procedures for necessary adjustments.
Civic Camber Adjustment
Compare camber settings with vehicle manufacturer recommendations. If camber is incorrect, check for bent or damaged front suspension components. Replace faulty components. Recheck camber.
Civic Caster Adjustment
DO NOT use more than 2 shims. If more than 2 shims are required to adjust caster angle, check for bent or damaged suspension components.
Compare caster settings with vehicle manufacturer recommendations. If caster is incorrect, check for bent or damaged front suspension components. Replace faulty components. Recheck caster.
Civic Toe-In Adjustment

1. Secure steering wheel in straight-ahead position. Measure front wheel toe-in. If adjustment is needed, loosen tie rod lock nuts. Turn both tie rods equally in the same direction until front wheels are in straight-ahead position and toe-in reading is correct. Tighten tie rod lock nuts. Reposition tie rod boots if twisted.
2. Ensure parking brake is released. Check rear wheel toe-in. If adjustment is needed, hold adjusting bolt on rear compensator arm and loosen lock nut. See figure. Adjust rear toe-in by sliding rear control arm until rear toe-in is correct. Install NEW lock nut, and tighten it while holding adjusting bolt.

Wheel Alignment Specifications

• Camber - Measurement in degrees.
  • Front: 0 (range -1 to 1)
  • Rear: 0.33 (range -1.33 to 0.67)
• Caster - Measurement in degrees.
  • 1.17 (range 0.17 to 2.17)
• Toe-In - Measurement in inches (mm).
  • Front: -0 (0)
  • Rear: 0.08 (2.0)
• Toe-In - Measurement in degrees.
  • Front: 0.00 (range - 0.16 to 0.16)
• Toe-Out On Turns - Measurement in degrees.
  • Inner: 41.00
  • Outer: 33.50

Torque Specifications Ft. Lbs (N.m)

• Rear Control Arm Adjusting Bolt: 48 (65)
• Spindle Nut: 136 (185)
• Tie Rod Lock Nut: 41 (55)
• Wheel Lug Nuts: 80 (108)

hope this helps you out.

Camber is an alignment term and is a measurement of how far the top of the wheel is in or out from the vehicle.

Things like lower control arms, lower ball joints, outer tie rod ends, struts or inner tie rod ends would be parts that would need to be repaired if they are bad before an alignment could be done.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

There is likely an eccentric bolt on the lower contorl arm. The one on the arm closest to the bottom center of the wheel hub is the camber adjustment, the other eccentric is the toe adjustment. You really should have it aligned with a computerized alignment machine. Changing the rear camber changes the rear toe and vise versa. It would be nearly impossible to get both within an acceptable range without the proper equipment. You can crudely measure rear toe using a tape measure but you won't know what the thrust angle is and that could cause some serious alignment issues.

most front wheel drives do have a rear camber bolts on the inside of the lower control arm. you can change these yourself. just mark the rough position of the old ones knock them out and replace with the new bolts. probably 1/2 hour job. real easy but you will definitely need an alignment after.