SOURCE: 1991 honda civic wont start...
I had the exact same problem - the solution is to replace the main relay (or just run a soldering iron over it's contacts). I have a '91 Honda Civic Hatchback and it now runs beautifully after I retouched the solder on the circuit board of that relay.
http://www.marklamond.co.uk/tech-honda/pgm-fi/main-relay/main-relay.htm
http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-trucks/91-honda-civic-main-relay-11244-2.html
SOURCE: 1994 Honda Civic Si...fuel pump, filter, or fuse...computer maybe..
had the same thing- fuel pump is defective
SOURCE: idling problem when ac turned on honda civic lxi 1999
Hi,
To my knowledge (at least in my country), some Honda Civics have a compensator solenoid the pushes on the throttle that adjust the engine's RPM to its standard idling when the A/C compressor is activated. Technically, this solenoid is nothing more but a coil and a plunger. When the compressor runs, the same relay activates this solenoid and pushes the plunger forward increasing the RPM. Pls check/clean/adjust/replace as deemed fit and necessary.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.
SOURCE: i have a honda civic 95 with a d15b3 engine...the
Overcharging could be one issue, but not likely. Sounds more like your compressor clutch is starting to freeze-up. U might wanna try adding some compressor oil in your system, although I believe most rifrigerants do have that as an additive already. Another posibility is that you have a bad pressure switch. There is a switch that will adjust your rpm accordingly when the AC is turned off or on. It is usually located along the lines of the AC system. Good luck!
SOURCE: oil filter in civic 97
If you go to a reputable motor factor,
you can only be sold the correct filter for the civic.
As there are soo many variables in engine type, it's almost impossible to tell, oil volume, or which type filter.
However, I will say, be sure that you don't mix semi-synthetic oil, and mineral oil.
Oil changes should be undertaken every 30,000 miles, (unless under extra work load, (in which case, slightly more regularly))
Otherwise, 10/40 or 15/40 grade oil, is perfectly fine.
The trick to not overfilling the oil, is simply just to take your time, clean the dip stick and retry, until you have the correct reading.
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