How do you test the fuel pump relay on a 1991 Toyota Celica 1.6 Car just died and won't crank. We changed the ignition coil and still won't crank. Fuel pump is working. Toyota place does not check relays.

Did you check for spark? Is the fuel pump working? Is the fuel filter clogged? Ignition coil any good?

Check for spark when it won't start. If you have spark, might be your fuel pump relay, maybe the map sensor. If no spark, check another or all plug wires. If ignition isn't working, it could be Crankshaft Position sensor, Camshaft position sensor (or pick-up coil), ignition control module, coils, pcm, or the wiring associated with them. PCM determines spark timing after inputs from crank and can sensors, and sends ground signal to ignition module, cutting primary voltage to coils, initiating spark or high voltage from coil to sparkplug. All these parts have to be working right for ignition. All can be tested too. You'd need a digital volt ohm meter (DVOM) and a repair manual for your car with the test procedures. That Mitchell alldata-diy site has a special on subscriptions, pretty reasonable for a 1 month subscription, and excellent info and troubleshooting flow charts, wiring diagrams, etc.

check for spark, no spark, no fire engine wont run, possible bad ignition coil, wire from coil to distributor cap, no power to ignition coil from ignition switch (rare) wire broken to ignition coil (even rarer)

This sounds like to me a fuel pump relay or fuel pump it self problem. I would check that first. I do not believe it is your ignition module. Your owners manual should tell you where these are. This will at least help you get started to make sure you are getting fuel. Thanks mike

When the fault occurs you need to check the spark and also the fuel settings so as to confirm the area of fault. If there is no spark check for the TRIGGER pulses to the HT coil. If absent check on the ignition system.
Also check on the fuel pressure /fuel settings , if there is overflow or no flow of the fuel from the pump specially when it is heated up..

Usually that happens when the ignition coil gets hot. Not sure if your car has one. It looks like a round cylinder with a spark plug wire connected to it.

After changing the ignition module, you may have broken the communication between all the components in the anti theft security system. This is common on GM antitheft systems. Check out this link for how it works and solutions to security problems. http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

I'll tell you four common failures on 90-93 Accords: 1.) The PGM-FI relay goes bad cutting power to the fuel pump. 2.)The distributor ignitor goes bad cutting spark. 3.) The ignition coil goes bad cutting spark also. 4.) The electrical portion of the ignition switch goes bad cutting power. (Quick check: try wiggling the key in a circular motion while its running, if it dies the ign switch is bad.) Note: Watch the distributor rotor while cranking. If the rotor turns while cranking than the t-belt isn't broken.

pull the fuel pipe off the injector rail and turn on the ignition, fuel will fly out when the dash lights are lit, maybe only for a few seconds as some pumps shut off after this time unless the engine is running.

Check the relay for the fuel pump is clicking / working when the ignition is on, you can usually bypass the relay with a wire across the N/O normally open terminals of the relay, but be careful not to short the feed to the coil of the relay, usually terminal 30 on the relay body. Get someone who understands the graphic on the relay to point out which pins to connect to trigger the pump.

It could be your crank sensor thats preventing the car from starting you know...no fuel will come out nor will it spark, if the crank sensor is dead.

Usually found near or behind the crank pulley at the bottom of the engine.

Have you checked the fuel pump relay? On my UK ST185 model, it's in a small box on the left hand side of the engine bay as you look at it, at the front. Yours may well be somewhere else.

If this is not the problem, there are two main things to check: Ignition and fueling.

First, whip out one of your spark plugs, plug it into the lead from the distributor cap, and have someone else turn it over. If you don't see a spark, it's going to be an ignition issue. That means it could be (in order of connection) the supply to the coil, the coil itself, the "king lead" (main central lead into the centre of the distributor cap) or the cap or rotor. The cap & rotor are the most likely to be at fault, and the easiest to check and change.

If that's not the problem, the next thing to check is the fuel injection system. Have a sniff in the hole where the spark plug was and see if you can smell gas. If not, there's your problem - no gas! While I appreciate that you've checked the pump, you may well not yet have looked at the fuel pressure regulator (on the end of the fuel rail) or the injectors.