How to install new timing chain on GA 1.6L engine

White smoke means a coolant leak, check it and repair before to overheating your engine.

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Here you go This will help you

Hello,


I am writing to tell you about a new BREAKTHROUGH method for repairing a leaking Coolant Transfer Pipe in the BMW N62 V8 engine block using the BimmerFix Stint. The N62 V8 is a popular BMW engine that was used from 2002 thru 2010, in such fabulous vehicles as the BMW 735i, 740i, 745i, 750i & Li, 645Ci, 650i, 540i, 545i, 550i, and the X5 SUV.


Located deep inside of this BMW N62 engine is a Coolant Transfer Pipe, which carries antifreeze from the Water Pump to cooling chambers within the engine. However, the Front Seal on this Cooling Tube can fail in as little as 40,000 miles, and start leaking antifreeze from the engine block, through a weep hole in the Timing Chain Cover. When this happens, the car will lose antifreeze from the engine, and the engine will overheat.


In the past, this has been a very expensive repair because it required disassembly of the engine, in order to access the leaking Cooling Pipe Seal. The original method of replacing the crossover Coolant Transfer Pipe required the removal of the Timing Chain Cover. This repair could cost $6,000 or more at the BMW Dealer.


Then, an after-market Collapsible Coolant Pipe was developed to save time and money on this repair. This Collapsible Coolant Pipe method involves removing the Intake Manifold, cutting out the old Coolant Pipe and installing the after-market Collapsible Coolant Pipe. But even this method required many hours of shop labor and expensive parts and supplies. The repair bill for this method can still cost between $1,500.00 and $2,500.00 to remove the Intake Manifold, cut out the old Coolant Pipe and install the new Collapsible Coolant Pipe.


However, BimmerFix Products Co. has discovered a BREAKTHROUGH system to stop the leak! The BimmerFix method is much faster and less expensive than these old methods. This simple, yet durable and long lasting method inserts the BimmerFix Stint into the leaking crossover cooling tube, through the Timing Chain Cover. The thin aluminum sleeve creates a long lasting repair that is much easier and less expensive to install than the old repair methods.


The new BimmerFix Stint will stop the Coolant Pipe leak, and only requires the removal of the Water Pump. This new patent protected invention can save YOU or your customer's time, hassle, and thousands of dollars. It works or your money back!


Save time and money! Take a look at www.BimmerFix.com.


Watch The Video! You will be glad you did!http://youtu.be/UABuZYvI3SM


Thanks for your time!


BimmerFix Products Co.


Tucson, Arizona, USA

Same as any other v-8 dis-assemble the front of the engine to get to the timing cover. Loosen the oil pan bolts to allow the timing cover to be slipped out. unbolt and remove the timing cover. Turn the engine over by hand until the dot on the crankshaft gear( the small one) is at the top 12 oclock position, and the dot on the cam gear(large gear) is at the bottom 6 oclock position remove the old cam gear and old chain. Install new gear and chain with the marks in the same places. Re assemble engine. DO NOT be tempted to just put in a new chain, replace the chain and cam gear as a set, wear on the cam gear will cause the chain to be slack, which in turn causes the cam timing to be late.

I had this same problem in my 02 745i... It's leaking from the internal coolant pipe... a $.05 rubber ring is going to cost you 3-5k easily.

no thats not true
there is a way to change the chain with out all the work.
there is a tool and you have to connect the new chain to the old and turn the engine over until the new chain is wrapped up and back through.
then you just connect the chain back together at the end.
its that simple with the chain install tool.
it keeps all the links a wheel teeth in the same order without disturbing the timing.
if the timing has been disturbed then the whool front of the engine and the car needs to come off.
the radiator support braket comes off in the center opening the whool front end to service the engine block.
you will not need to remove the engine to service the timing chain tensioner and or chain if it has jumped timing or the incorrect service has been performed disturbing the timing.
the ac condesor and the rad fans and the rad all need to bee removed to gain access to the front engine block.allways be very careful when doing service on these cars and never force nothing.all so before you try to turn the belt adjuster screw you must allways release the tensioner bolt in the center or you will i promise distroy the belt tensioner.

hope this helps
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It must be a 2.4. You don't have to remove the chain, just the chain tensioner. You can lock the cams so they don't move with two 5/16 drill bits. There is a big short cut if it is a stick shift, but most GA are automatic. You have to remove the exhaust manifold and timing chain cover and tensioner. The water pump pulley is turned by the timing chain.

This is a job for an experienced technician. Probably about a $300 job. Maybe more.

Here is procedure for 1996:

Removal

1. Drain the cooling system. Refer to Section 03-03 for the procedure.
   

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301).
   

1. Remove the generator drive belt, water pump and power steering pump drive belt, and the A/C compressor drive belt (if equipped). Refer to Section 03-05 for the removal procedure.
   

1. If equipped, remove the three A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley bolts and the A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley.
   

1. Remove the upper radiator hose bracket bolt.
   

1. Loosen the two upper radiator hose clamps and remove the radiator hose bracket bolt. Remove the upper radiator hose (8260) and the upper radiator hose bracket from the vehicle.
   

1. Remove the water bypass hose (8597) from between the thermostat housing and the water hose connection (8592).
   

1. Remove the main wiring harness from the upper engine front cover (6019).
   

1. Remove the eight upper engine front cover bolts and the upper engine front cover.
   

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
   

1. Remove the RH front wheel and tire assembly.
   

1. Remove the four RH outer engine and transmission splash shield bolts and two screws and remove the RH outer engine and transmission splash shield (6775).
   

1. Use Strap Wrench D85L-6000-A or equivalent to hold the water pump pulley (8509) while removing the four water pump pulley bolts.
   

1. Remove the water pump pulley from the water pump (8501).
   

1. Remove the crankshaft pulley (6312). Refer to the procedure in this section.
   

1. Remove the five lower engine front cover bolts and the lower engine front cover.
   
2. Ensure that the timing marks between the crankshaft sprocket (6306) and the oil pump housing line up.
   

18. NOTE: The directional arrow is necessary to ensure that the timing chain/belt (6268) can be reinstalled in the same direction.

If the timing chain/belt is to be reused, mark the direction of rotation on the timing chain/belt.

19. Loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut.

1. Remove the timing chain/belt.
   

Installation
NOTE: Ensure that the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets (6256) and the seal plate are properly aligned. Ensure that the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and the oil pump housing are still aligned.



CAUTION: Pay special attention to the tooth shape of the timing belt. The current timing belts are not interchangeable with the timing belts from the 1993 model year. The 1993 model year uses a square or trapezoidal tooth timing belt while the current model year uses a rounded tooth design. The design change was made to extend the service life of the timing belt from 60,000 miles for the square or trapezoidal toothed belt to 105,000 miles for the rounded tooth belt. If the proper timing belt is not used, the customer may complain of a "whining" noise coming from the engine compartment. If the camshaft sprocket has a square cut in the valley of the gear tooth, it will require a square or trapezoidal tooth timing belt. If the camshaft sprocket has a rounded cut in the valley of the gear tooth, it will require a rounded tooth timing belt.
NOTE: If a new timing chain/belt is to be installed, make sure that the arrow is pointing away from the engine. If a timing chain/belt is to be reused, make sure that the directional arrow that was marked during disassembly is facing the correct direction.

NOTE: A new timing chain/belt has three white timing marks that indicate the correct timing positions of the camshafts and the crankshaft. These marks will help ensure that the engine (6007) is timed properly. When the engine is properly timed each white timing mark on the timing chain/belt will be aligned with the corresponding camshaft and crankshaft timing mark on the sprocket. Because the white timing marks are not evenly spaced you will need to refer to the following illustration for proper timing chain/belt placement. There should be 40 timing belt teeth between the timing marks of the front and rear camshaft sprockets and 43 teeth between the timing mark on the front camshaft sprocket and the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket.

NOTE: Verify that the camshaft timing marks are aligned with the timing marks on the seal plate, and that the crankshaft sprocket timing mark is aligned with the timing mark on the oil pump (6600).

Install the timing chain/belt starting at the crankshaft sprocket and moving around to the camshaft sprockets following a counterclockwise path. Do not allow any slack in the timing chain/belt between the timing sprockets. After all of the timing marks are matched up with the timing chain/belt installed, slip the timing chain/belt onto the timing chain/belt tensioner.

1. While holding the timing chain/belt tensioner with an Allen wrench, loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut.
   

1. Allow the timing chain/belt tensioner to put pressure on the timing chain/belt.
   

1. Use an Allen wrench to turn the timing chain/belt tensioner 70-80 degrees clockwise and tighten the timing chain/belt tensioner nut to 43-58 Nm (32-43 lb-ft).
   
2. 
   
   1. Rotate the crankshaft (6303) clockwise twice and align the No. 1 piston to Top Dead Center (TDC) on its compression stroke.
      
1. Apply 98N (22 lbs) of force on the timing chain/belt between the rear camshaft sprocket and the timing chain/belt tensioner.
   
2. NOTE: An assistant may be needed to adjust the timing chain/belt.
   
   While holding the timing chain/belt tensioner steady with an Allen wrench, loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut. Remove the Allen wrench and adjust the timing chain/belt tensioner as follows:
   
1. Install a 0.35mm (0.0138 inch) thick and 12.7mm (0.500 inch) wide feeler gauge as shown.
   

1. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to position the feeler gauge between the timing chain/belt tensioner and the timing chain/belt

1. Tighten the timing chain/belt tensioner nut to 43-58 Nm (32-43 lb-ft).

1. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to remove the feeler gauge from between the timing chain/belt tensioner and the timing chain/belt.

1. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise twice and align the No. 1 piston to TDC on its compression stroke.
   

1. Apply 98N (22 lbs) of force on the timing chain/belt between the rear and front camshaft sprocket.
   
1. Measure the timing chain/belt deflection. Timing chain/belt deflection should be between 13-15mm (0.51-0.59 inch). If timing chain/belt deflection is not within specification, repeat steps 3-11. If the timing chain/belt cannot be adjusted to within specification, the timing chain/belt will have to be replaced.
   
1. Position the lower engine front cover and install the five lower engine front cover bolts. Tighten the five lower engine front cover bolts to 3-5 Nm (27-44 lb-in).
   
1. Install the outer timing chain/belt guide and the crankshaft pulley. Refer to the procedure in this section.
   
1. Position the water pump pulley on the water pump and install the four water pump pulley bolts
   
1. Use Strap Wrench D85L-6000-A or equivalent to hold the water pump pulley, and tighten the four water pump pulley bolts to 16-21 Nm (12-15 lb-ft).
   
1. Position the RH outer engine and transmission splash shield and install the four RH outer engine and transmission splash shield bolts and two screws.
   
1. Install the RH front wheel and tire assembly. Tighten the lug nuts (1012) to 98-118 Nm (72-87 lb-ft).
   

If it has not broken or jumped timing you simply remove the valve cover and timing chain tennsioner. Then cut a link out of the old chain on top of the cam gear, then you attach the new chain with the supplied master link and slowly rotate the engine until the old chain has run out and the new chain is in it's place. It's best to have a helper to rotate so you can hold the chain against the cam gear. Once this is done recheck the can timing and do not let the chain slip or you will have to pull the injection pump and retime it. Even if you do it's easier than removing the front cover! Good luck!

you cant . you have to open up the front of the engine. and every gear has to be in time. buy a repair manual for this car and it will show you how.