Complete system shutdown. Opened fuse box under hood pushed down on fuses and everything was ok for a few days. Keeps doing same thing but now shuts down right after it starts. Push fuses back down and does the same thing.

From what I can find out you have two boxes. One inside the vehicle however I don't think any of these are the culprit because power would be somewhere. Another under the hood. The only one that would cause a complete failure in this box is the main fuse. I believe you blown what is called a fusible link. It is either part of the positive battery cable or between cable and fuse box under the hood

It's in the Power Distribution Box under the hood. May also be called the Fuse/relay Block. The cover over the box should show the location of the automatic shut down relay. Turning the key to on causes the computer to activate the relay, sending power to the ignition coils and the fuel injectors.

Relay clicking in the fuse box or relay box near it, find which relay and the problem associated with it. The gas thing is from the ECM being reset, it has to relearn running the motor.

To try to help I need to know a few things . 1) when you say you went over everything under the hood did that include checking all main fuses ? Checking for fuel and or fuel pressure and checking for spark ? 2) when trying to start car are all dashboard lights coming on? Pleases repost as I will advise to help find the issue

No diagrams? I'm working on a '95 cherokee, the cover on the box has a complete diagram on the underside. On the '95, there are 10 maxi-fuses, and 6 mini-fuses. What is the number designation of the fuse? Likely the numbers may not agree with mine, but I could try to help. By the way, if you have your owner's manual, it would show all fuse and relay descriptions and locations, both the under hood box and the under dash fuse block.

Similar problem due to wiring on ASD (automatic shutdown relay) not connected tight to terminals on underside (fuse box under hood). I encountered this problem repeatedly after a mechanic (national chain) kept removing this wire for some reason (eventually causing computer to fry). Also related problem misfiring/backfiring/bogging down under certain driving conditions I traced to the battery sliding into computer wiring harness and disrupting sensor input/output signals. Placed 1" spacer on rear clamp to push battery forward, which cured this problem.

YES IT CAN SHUT IT DOWN. GET A GOOD FUSE TESTER, TEST ALL THE FUSES UNDER THE HOOD & INSIDE THE VEHICLE. TURN ON THE IGNITION SWITCH DURING THE FUSE TESTING

Well I would start by trying to identify which circuit has the bad boy on it. Under the hood is a small block of large current fuses, and under the dash there are a bunch of lower current fuses. If you have an ammeter and know what it does put it in line with the battery and with the ignition off pull the large fuses out one by one until the amperage drops to almost nothing. Now you know which major circuit has the bad egg, so you put that fuse back in and go inside the car and pull the smaller fuses on that large fuse circuit until again the amperage drops to almost nothing. Now you have a very small selection of gadgets on that small fuse, one of which is the bad boy. Frequent offenders are the circuit which keeps airbag suspensions active, lights in the trunk and glove box, things related to remote starting and automatic/remote door locks. If you do not have access to an ammeter you can do this more slowly by simply pulling the fuses one by one each night until you find the one which, when out, leaves the battery charged for the next day.

It's location is in the fuse/relay box under the hood. It's a 20 amp fuse in position 23.

If the fuse is OK there's a fuel pump shut off switch located under the the glove box just above the carpet. To reset it, turn the ignition switch off, push the button on the switch, then turn the ignition on wait a few seconds then turn the ignition off.

Hope this helps

Well last night I went under the hood, opened the fuse panel and removed the "Memory"/Audio fuse, in my car it was yellow and only pulled up, not out, it was a "20". I left it out for a few min, pushed the fuse back in and everything is fine now, just have to reset my clock.

Hope this helps all!