Running the fault codes at an auto spares shop will give you the codes that are causing the problem
if you run low on fuel it could cause a pump problem but as you drove it home after the problem , I doubt i f it is the pump
SOURCE: choking and stalling while running and then will not start
Might be dirty fuel filter change the fuel filter see how it runs.
SOURCE: how hard is it to replace a intake gasket on a 1994 olds cutlass supreme.3.1 6 cyclinder
It is not an extremely difficult job. time consuming consuming... I've done a 3.4 intake manifold job, which in my opinion (plenty will disagree) is a little easier than a 3.1 manifold. there are just more steps involved with the 3.1 intake.(I haven't had to change the intake gasket on my 3.1 (yet)) If you haven't already, invest in a haynes or chilton manual, whip out your sockets and your gasket remover, and prepare to do battle...
oh, as far as how to tell before you break down the engine... are you having any drive ability problems? Surging idle, stalling... try this, take propane torch (DONT LIGHT IT) but open the valve and let the spray the propane around your intake manifold with the engine running. If the idle drops or the car stalls, there is your intake leak. That trick also works with intake cleaner too.
you may have to remove your push rods to put your new gasket on. Just loosen the rocker arm nuts/bolts and pivot your rocker arms out of the way. If you do remove your push rods, push them into some holes in a cardboard box so that you can replace them EXACTLY in the same position that you got them from. To remove old traces of gasket, you may have to get some spray on gasket remover, let it sit 5 min. then get at it with your scraper. (be careful, remember our engines are aluminum, you don't want to scrape too hard and scar the mating surface).
After you get all the old gasket off, clean the mating surface with intake cleaner or lacquer thinner. your gasket kit may have come with end seals. if it did not, remember to run a line of RTV sealant on the front and rear ridges of the engine block between the heads (before you install the intake gasket.)
When you re-install your lower manifold, coat your bolts with pipe thread sealant. when you install the lower manifold, tighten the vertical bolts first, then the angle bolts- it will keep the manifold from wiggling around on the gasket.
After you get everything back together and all snug, i would buy some GM top engine cleaner (liquid)(dealer only( part# 1050002) or some sea foam from your local parts retailer. I know this is to clean the carbon and sludge from your intake and your cylinders, but guess where the remainder of the solution ends up? Yep, in your oil. That should clean up any residue you had from the milkshake effect.
To use the GM engine cleaner, just disconnect your favorite vacuum hose leading to the intake (some people just use their brake booster hose) and put it down in the bottle of liquid while the car is running. (don't let the vacuum **** the liquid too fast, you don't want to risk problems. you may have to keep your hand on the throttle to keep it running. when the can is empty, let your car stall or just cut it off.
Let your car sit about 2 hours, to give the cleaner time to really work. Start your car, let it run for about 20 mins (there will be PLENTY of white smoke, your car is burning off the cleaner and the carbon).
Then change your oil. good luck and hope this helps.
Ok, you're going to need to buy, borrow, or rent a torque wrench. For 3.1 engines 1995 and earlier, rocker arm nuts should be torqued to 18 ft-lbs.
The wire brush probably did less damage than I do on a regular basis with a gasket scraper :D so you should be okay. If you've already drained your oil, (which I suspect you have) then I would just use the wal-mart brand while you do the GM engine cleaner thing.
Don't add the cleaner to your oil, just let a vacuum hose, **** it into the intake. Plenty will get in your oil. Getting into your oil and cleaning up the gook is just a fringe benefit. What the cleaner actually does is it cleans up your entire intake path (manifold, injectors, & valves)... I think you'll be happy with the throtle crispness, once you're done with the engine cleaner.
Oh and for your coolant system, just get some Prestone radiator flush, and follow what the bottle says. If your system is really gooped up, Prestone also has a Super flush for a little extra :2cents:
SOURCE: I need to replace turn signal switch on 97 olds cutlass supreme.
Disconnect the battery to do any service on the steering column or front radiator areas.
SOURCE: how to replace water pump on 95 olds cutlass
This will probably be easiest water pump you'll ever have to replace. Since its bad it probably has leaked enough coolant out that you wont even have to drain the radiator. Use a half inch breaker bar to take tension off the belt at the tensioner(below the power steering pump), remove belt. The pump is the closest pulley to you when standing in front of the car. Use a 10mm wrench or socket to remove 4 bolts on the pulley, and then there is I believe 6 8mm bolts that hold the pump onto the housing. Give the pump a tap with a hammer, and the pump will come right off. If the gasket is still attached to the housing scape it off using care not to gouge the surface. you should cover the inside with a rag so no pieces fall into the system. Use some RTV sealant on the new gasket(light coating) both sides, let it cure for 5 mins, then reinstall gasket and pump. The bolts don't take much torque but make sure they are good and tight. Now reinstall the belt and fill the radiator. Give the sealant about an hour to really set-up before you start the engine. With radiator cap removed start the engine let it warm-up and fill the radiator as needed. Replace the cap, fill overflow tank to proper level and take it for a ride watching the temp gage. All should be good. If the temp is high after a mile or 2 their is probably air in the system that needs to be bled out.
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