I need to replace the belt tensioner on a 2000 Chysler Caravan with a 3.0L engine, with a/c. I would appreciation a diagram for properly installing the serpentine belt, and some instructions on how to replace it and the belt tensioner. Thanks so very much.

Fig. Fig. 11: Accessory drive belt adjustment-3.3L and 3.8L engines
All of the belt driven accessories on the 3.3L and 3.8L engines are driven by a single serpentine belt. The belt tension is maintained by am automatic tensioner.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise the front of the vehicle and safely support it with jackstands.
3. Remove the right front splash shield.
4. Release tension by rotating the tensioner clockwise.
5. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
6. Proper belt tension is maintain by the dynamic tension.
7. Install the right front splash shield. Lower the front of the vehicle.
8. Connect the negative battery cable

ccessory Drive Belt

Accessory drive belt adjustment-3.3L and 3.8L engines
Click to Enlarge

All of the belt driven accessories on the 3.3L and 3.8L engines are driven by a single serpentine belt. The belt tension is maintained by am automatic tensioner.

1. Raise the front of the vehicle and safely support it with jackstands.
   

2. Remove the right front splash shield.
   

3. Release tension by rotating the tensioner clockwise.
   

4. Remove the belt and install a replacement.
   

5. Proper belt tension is maintain by the dynamic tension.
   

6. Install the right front splash shield. Lower the front of the vehicle.
   

Please rate highly if this helps. Good luck.

3,0L 2 Valve


Item Part Number Description 1 3A733 Power steering pump pulley 2 8620 Drive belt 3 2E884 A/C clutch pulley 4 6316 Crankshaft pulley 5 6B209 Drive belt tensioner pulley 6 10344 Generator pulley

Item Part Number Description 1 10346 Generator pulley 2 8678 Belt idler pulley 3 3A733 Power steering pump pulley 4 8620 Drive belt 5 2E884 A/C clutch pulley 6 6B209 Drive belt tensioner pulley 7 6312 Crankshaft pulley 8 8509 Water pump pulley

3.0L 4 valve

3.0L And 4.0L Engines

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. With the vehicle in neutral, position it on a hoist.
3. Remove the splash shield.
4. Rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner clockwise for 2001-2004 models and counterclockwise for 2005-2006 models. Remove the belt.
5. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Serpentine Belt
All Navajo and B Series Pick-up engines utilize one wide-ribbed V-belt to drive the engine accessories such as the water pump, alternator, air conditioner compressor, air pump, etc. Because this belt uses a spring loaded tensioner for adjustment, belt replacement tends to be somewhat easier than on engines where accessories are pivoted and bolted in place for tension adjustment, such as the MPV. Basically, all belt replacement involves is to pivot the tensioner to loosen the belt, then slide the belt off of the pulleys. The two most important points are to pay CLOSE attention to the proper belt routing (since serpentine belts tend to be "snaked" all different ways through the pulleys) and to make sure the V-ribs are properly seated in all the pulleys.



Fig. Belt routing diagram-3.0L engines







Fig. Belt routing diagram-4.0L engines


Although belt routing diagrams have been included in this section, the first places you should check for proper belt routing are the labels in your engine compartment. These should include a belt routing diagram which may reflect changes made during a production run.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable for safety. This will help assure that no one mistakenly cranks the engine over with your hands between the pulleys.
   

Take a good look at the installed belt and make a note of the routing. Before removing the belt, make sure the routing matches that of the belt routing diagrams. If for some reason a diagram does not match (you may not have the original engine or it may have been modified,) carefully note the changes on a piece of paper.

1. For tensioners equipped with a 1 / 2 inch square hole, insert the drive end of a large breaker bar into the hole. Use the breaker bar to pivot the tensioner away from the drive belt. For tensioners not equipped with this hole, use the proper-sized socket and breaker bar (or a large handled wrench) on the tensioner idler pulley center bolt to pivot the tensioner away from the belt. This will loosen the belt sufficiently that it can be pulled off of one or more of the pulleys. It is usually easiest to carefully pull the belt out from underneath the tensioner pulley itself.

1. Once the belt is off one of the pulleys, gently pivot the tensioner back into position. DO NOT allow the tensioner to snap back, as this could damage the tensioners internal parts.
2. Now finish removing the belt from the other pulleys and remove it from the engine.
   

To install:

1. While referring to the proper routing diagram (which you identified earlier), begin to route the belt over the pulleys, leaving whichever pulley you first released it from for last.
2. Once the belt is mostly in place, carefully pivot the tensioner and position the belt over the final pulley. As you begin to allow the tensioner back into contact with the belt, run your hand around the pulleys and make sure the belt is properly seated in the ribs. If not, release the tension and seat the belt.
3. Once the belt is installed, take another look at all the pulleys to double check your installation.
4. Connect the negative battery cable, then start and run the engine to check belt operation.
5. Once the engine has reached normal operating temperature, turn the ignition OFF and check that the belt tensioner arrow is within the proper adjustment range.

Hope helps (remember rated and comment this).

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Because serpentine belts use a spring loaded tensioner for adjustment, belt replacement tends to be somewhat easier than it used to be on engines where accessories were pivoted and bolted in place for tension adjustment. Basically, all belt replacement involves is to pivot the tensioner to loosen the belt, then slide the belt off of the pulleys. The two most important points are to pay CLOSE attention to the proper belt routing (since serpentine belts tend to be "snaked'' all different ways through the pulleys) and to make sure the V-ribs are properly seated in all the pulleys. Although belt routing diagrams have been included in this section, the first places you should check for proper belt routing are the labels in your engine compartment. These should include a belt routing diagram which may reflect changes made during a production run.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable for safety. This will help assure that no one mistakenly cranks the engine over with your hands between the pulleys, and that the cooling fan cannot activate while servicing the belt(s). NOTE: Take a good look at the installed belt and make a note of the routing. Before removing the belt, make sure the routing matches that of the belt routing label or one of the diagrams in this book. If for some reason a diagram does not match (you may not have the original engine or it may have been modified), carefully note the changes on a piece of paper.
   
2. For tensioners equipped with a 1⁄2 in. (13mm) square hole, insert the drive end of a large breaker bar into the hole. Use the breaker bar to pivot the tensioner away from the drive belt. For tensioners not equipped with this hole, use the proper-sized socket and breaker bar (or a large handled wrench) on the tensioner idler pulley center bolt to pivot the tensioner away from the belt. This will loosen the belt sufficiently that it can be pulled off of one or more of the pulleys. It is usually easiest to carefully pull the belt out from underneath the tensioner pulley itself.
3. Once the belt is off one of the pulleys, gently pivot the tensioner back into position. DO NOT allow the tensioner to snap back, as this could damage the tensioner's internal parts.
4. Now finish removing the belt from the other pulleys and remove it from the engine. To install:
   
5. While referring to the proper routing diagram (which you identified earlier), begin to route the belt over the pulleys, leaving whichever pulley you first released it from for last.
6. Once the belt is mostly in place, carefully pivot the tensioner and position the belt over the final pulley. As you begin to allow the tensioner back into contact with the belt, run your hand around the pulleys and make sure the belt is properly seated in the ribs. If not, release the tension and seat the belt.
7. Once the belt is installed, take another look at all the pulleys to double check your installation.
8. Connect the negative battery cable, then start and run the engine to check belt operation.
9. Once the engine has reached normal operating temperature, turn the ignition OFF and check that the belt tensioner arrow is within the proper adjustment range. Fig. 1: Often the underhood label will display the serpentine drive belt routing
   Fig. 2: Relieve the belt tension by pivoting the automatic tensioner away from the belt, then remove the belt
   Fig. 3: Verifying serpentine belt alignment in the pulley
   Fig. 4: Fig. 1 Accessory V-belt routing (alternator) — Mazda MPV 3.0L engine
   Fig. 5: Fig. 2 Accessory V-belt routing (power steering) — Mazda MPV 3.0L engine
   Fig. 6: Fig. 3 Accessory V-belt routing (A/C compressor) — Mazda MPV 3.0L engine
   

this is not a dificult job but it can be alittle teadious. This is straight from the maintainance manual

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Because serpentine belts use a spring loaded tensioner for adjustment, belt replacement tends to be somewhat easier than it used to be on engines where accessories were pivoted and bolted in place for tension adjustment. Basically, all belt replacement involves is to pivot the tensioner to loosen the belt, then slide the belt off of the pulleys. The two most important points are to pay CLOSE attention to the proper belt routing (since serpentine belts tend to be "snaked'' all different ways through the pulleys) and to make sure the V-ribs are properly seated in all the pulleys. The first places you should check for proper belt routing are the labels in your engine compartment. These should include a belt routing diagram which may reflect changes made during a production run.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable for safety. This will help assure that no one mistakenly cranks the engine over with your hands between the pulleys, and that the cooling fan cannot activate while servicing the belt(s). NOTE: Take a good look at the installed belt and make a note of the routing. Before removing the belt, make sure the routing matches that of the belt routing label. If for some reason a diagram does not match (you may not have the original engine or it may have been modified), carefully note the changes on a piece of paper.
   
2. For tensioners equipped with a 1⁄2 in. (13mm) square hole, insert the drive end of a large breaker bar into the hole. Use the breaker bar to pivot the tensioner away from the drive belt. For tensioners not equipped with this hole, use the proper-sized socket and breaker bar (or a large handled wrench) on the tensioner idler pulley center bolt to pivot the tensioner away from the belt. This will loosen the belt sufficiently that it can be pulled off of one or more of the pulleys. It is usually easiest to carefully pull the belt out from underneath the tensioner pulley itself.
3. Once the belt is off one of the pulleys, gently pivot the tensioner back into position. DO NOT allow the tensioner to snap back, as this could damage the tensioner's internal parts.
4. Now finish removing the belt from the other pulleys and remove it from the engine. To install:
   
5. While referring to the proper routing diagram (which you identified earlier), begin to route the belt over the pulleys, leaving whichever pulley you first released it from for last.
6. Once the belt is mostly in place, carefully pivot the tensioner and position the belt over the final pulley. As you begin to allow the tensioner back into contact with the belt, run your hand around the pulleys and make sure the belt is properly seated in the ribs. If not, release the tension and seat the belt.
7. Once the belt is installed, take another look at all the pulleys to double check your installation.
8. Connect the negative battery cable, then start and run the engine to check belt operation.
9. Once the engine has reached normal operating temperature, turn the ignition OFF and check that the belt tensioner arrow is within the proper adjustment range.

Timing chain is only available in the 3.3L and 3.8L engines.

Yours has a belt. (if you're SURE its a 3.0L)

Here is the info on changing it...

3.0L Engine
The timing belt can be inspected by removing the upper front outer timing belt cover.
Working on any engine (especially overhead camshaft engines) requires much care be given to valve timing. It is good practice to set the engine up at TDC No. 1 cylinder firing position before beginning work. Verify that all timing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets are properly aligned before removing the timing belt and starting camshaft service. This serves as a point of reference for all work that follows. Valve timing is very important and engine damage will result if the work is incorrect.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the accessory drive belts. Remove the engine mount insulator from the engine support bracket.
3. Remove the engine support bracket. Remove the crankshaft pulleys and torsional damper. Remove the timing belt covers.
4. Rotate the crankshaft until the sprocket timing marks are aligned. The crankshaft sprocket timing mark should align with the oil pump timing mark. The rear camshaft sprocket timing mark should align with the generator bracket timing mark and the front camshaft sprocket timing mark should align with the inner timing belt cover timing mark.
5. If the belt is to be reused, mark the direction of rotation on the belt for installation reference.
6. Loosen the timing belt tensioner bolt and remove the timing belt.
7. If necessary, remove the timing belt tensioner.
8. Remove the crankshaft sprocket flange shield and crankshaft sprocket.
9. Hold the camshaft sprocket using spanner tool MB990775, or equivalent, and remove the camshaft sprocket bolt and washer. Remove the camshaft sprocket.
10. To install:
    
11. Install the camshaft sprocket on the camshaft with the retaining bolt and washer. Hold the camshaft sprocket using spanner tool MB990775, or equivalent, and tighten the bolt to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
12. Install the crankshaft sprocket.
13. If removed, install the timing belt tensioner and tensioner spring. Hook the spring upper end to the water pump pin and the lower end to the tensioner bracket with the hook out.
14. Turn the timing belt tensioner counterclockwise full travel in the adjustment slot and tighten the bolt to temporarily hold it in this position.
15. Rotate the crankshaft sprocket until its timing mark is aligned with the oil pump timing mark.
16. Rotate the rear camshaft sprocket until its timing mark is aligned with the timing mark on the generator bracket.
17. Rotate the front (radiator side) camshaft sprocket until its mark is aligned with the timing mark on the inner timing belt cover.
18. Install the timing belt on the crankshaft sprocket while keeping the belt tight on the tension side.
19. Position the timing belt over the front camshaft sprocket (radiator side). Next, position the belt under the water pump pulley, then over the rear camshaft sprocket and finally over the tensioner.
20. Apply rotating force in the opposite direction to the front camshaft sprocket (radiator side) to create tension on the timing belt tension side. Check that all timing marks are aligned.
21. Install the crankshaft sprocket flange.
22. Loosen the tensioner bolt and allow the tensioner spring to tension the belt.
23. Rotate the crankshaft 2 full turns in a clockwise direction. Turn the crankshaft smoothly and in a clockwise direction only.
24. Align the timing marks. If all marks are aligned, tighten the tensioner bolt to 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm). Otherwise repeat the installation procedure.
25. Install the timing belt covers. Install the engine support bracket. Tighten the support bracket mounting bolts to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm).
26. Install the engine mount insulator, torsional damper and crankshaft pulleys. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 112 ft. lbs. (151 Nm).
27. Install the accessory drive belts and adjust them to the proper tension.
28. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
29. Run the engine and check for proper operation. Road test the vehicle.

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Edit a video on this job. That is right you do not have to remove the alternator! You go in from underneath. Here’s a video on the job that I made about a week ago.Works for 1998, 1999, 2000 & 2001 Dodge Caravan’s, town and country and grand Voyager’s. https://youtu.be/CrG8vBuy4xE

2.0L Engines
See Figures 11, 12 and 13
The accessory drive belt for 2.0L engines has no provision for manual belt adjustment, since these engines use an automatic belt tensioner. Drive belt slack is taken up by the automatic tensioner.
Movement of the automatic tensioner assembly during engine operation is not a sign of a malfunctioning tensioner. This movement is the tensioner self-adjusting and is required to maintain constant belt tension.
The belt tensioner has a belt length indicator. If the indicator marks are not between the MIN and MAX marks, the belt must be replaced.
Fig. 11: Drive belt routing-2.0L SOHC engine with A/C Fig. 12: Drive belt routing-2.0L SOHC engine without A/C Fig. 13: Drive belt routing-2.0L DOHC engine

What engine do you have? The 3.3 and 3.8 engines have a single serpentine belt, and a belt tensioner, so no adjustment is needed. Did you replace the tensioner, and want to know how much to torque it? countrycurt0