Check the transmission system
I guarantee you it's your Throttlebody, same thing happened to me just replaced it with a used one off of eBay and now runs good and I cleared the codes with a scammer
It depends on what you mean by electronic thermostat wire. I assume you have the L322 Range Rover with the BMW M62 4.4 litre V8 petrol engine. It has a heater in the coolant thermostat which causes the thermostat to open further when the engine gets too hot.. The wiring to this often fails due to coolant leakage into the cable. Disconnecting it will make no difference to the running of the engine. (On mine, it has been disconnected due to corrosion).
SOURCE: wiring a 2004 range rover
what is wrong with the car,, that you need to rewire. the wiring for suspention is independant.
SOURCE: online owners manual 2000 land rover range rover hse
Do a serch on Google for RAVE. This is the land rover workshop manuals. The owner manuals are included.
MickyDrew
SOURCE: 2004 Land Rover Freelander - Engine Shakes
Hydraulic lifters? I have been racking my brains for this one. Lifters will sometimes pump up when cold and then lose pressure as they get worked. Would explain why your camshaft died. Suggest you look at old camshaft, see the cams that were worn and replace those lifters. Only thing I can come up with!
SOURCE: Have a 2004 range rover with p122b code output speed sensor
This might sound odd, but it could be the gearbox output shaft bearing. If the transmission sounds noisier than it did, this could be the issue. Only way to check is to take off the transfer box. Not a major job, but takes a while. Some good fault code readers will read transmission codes, and allow you to see in real time what the sensor is doing - if the sensor suddenly loses signal, then it is very likely to be the a bearing (output shaft bearing most likely) that is at fault, causing the sensor ring to move too far from the sensor. Best guess, but could be other things, so don't go taking that transfer box off without getting a road test with a good fault code reader on it - or find someone with a portable oscilloscope and put that across the sensor - you should be able to see nice square wave pulses - if they get bigger and smaller (variable amplitude), that's your problem. If not, the fault lies elsewhere.
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