Subaru Outback - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 8

First of all did she run over something that has stuck under the car? Check and see if you have a clunking in one of the wheels Could be a brake in a wheel has come apart. Try and see if it does it again and some one stand beside the car as it moves slowly to find out where the noise is coming from. May not be serious and again it could be. If she drove on snow it could even be a build up of ice and snow. You are not clear what kind of noise and very hard to answer.

Check the power steering fluid and see if it is empty, if it is, refill and see if the problem persists. If full, then refer to your dealership and they will run tests for you.

start with replacing spark plugs an wires and possibly distributor cap. It may be flashing because it may be misfiring and if its misfiring and your car isnt running correctly your going to fail your emissions. Here is a link that shows you the process in how its done cheers! the other link is a good straight search about what your going through and alternatives resources that are available to you at your disposal. Subaru 2 5L Spark Plug Replacement Google

you can fix it some just pull out and some you need a wrench then the wires just pull off by a new one first

There is much written about these clocks failing on the Subaru forums. The fix for most is to repair bad solder joints inside the clock, or replace the clock.

once a month

some engineers include this feature as a child safety device to prevent the child from exiting a moving vehicle Normally it locks the doors at around 10 klms per hour or above but if it is happening immediately on turning the key ,perhaps you should see a service agent as it could be a developing fault or can be adjusted

Try replacing both tail light bulbs with LED bulbs available at most auto parts supply stores. If screw in be sure to place a dot of anti-seize compound on the threads. LED bulbs more fault tolerant as they need considerably less amperage to illuminate.

Quite likey you just have a bad o-ring. before condemning the pump, look inside the PS fluid tank while idling. If there are bubbles/foam in the fluid, you probably just need an o-ring on the suction hose adpater on top of the pump. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/40884-how-does-air-get-into-power-steering-system.html

Did you try to clean the lens of your optical reader? A typical product is selle dy Amazon and most retail stores Memorex CD and DVD Lens Cleaning Kit Tutorial to use a cleaner is shown in youtube How to Clean CD DVD Laser Lens in Computer How to clean DVD or CD player or recorder lens Sony RCD W500C how to clean car audio player and much more, just do a google search for Youtube Clean Car DVD Lens

Check your fuses. I think all the circuits you mentioned are on the same fuse.

Both high and low beams quit or just low beams?

Some cars are simply like that. You may find that holding the gas nozzle lifted just a bit helps. I've been living with that same issue for 20 years.

A stuck thermostat is the most common cause of overheating, that would also contributed to the hose failure.

P0170 Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank 1) OBD-II Trouble Code Technical Description Article by Dale Toalston ASE Certified Technician Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank 1) What does that mean? This code is one that surfaces with certain makes of automobiles more than others. In writing this article I've added Mercedes-Benz-specific info since it seems that M-B (and VW) are most prone to having this P0170 surface along with misfire codes or other fuel trim codes. P0170 means there was a malfunction in the computer's control of the air:fuel ratio. It also indicates that the fuel trims reached their limit of adding fuel while trying to compensate for a actual or perceived rich condition. When the fuel trims reach their rich correction limit, the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) sets a P0170, indicating a problem or malfunction in the fuel trims. It may also have a P0173 referring to the same malfunction but on bank two. Symptoms Symptoms of a P0170 DTC may include: MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) Illumination Start and stall Poor fuel economy Black smoke at tailpipe Hesitation/misfire at idle or under load Causes Potential causes include a vacuum leak, unmetered air leaks Fuel saturated engine oil Leak in turbo air charge hoses (if equipped) Possibly bad O2 sensor (If Mercedes, may require adaptation with M-Benz compatible scan tool.) Oil contamination in MAF connector or O2 sensor connectors. Also check ignition coils, cam and crank sensors, and oil sensor for leakage contributing to oil intrusion in wiring harness. Defective MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor (especially on Mercedez-Benz and other European autos. There are a lot of problems with aftermarket MAF sensors.) Defective fuel pressure regulator Leaking camshaft adjuster solenoids (Mercedes-Benz). NOTE: for some Mercedes-Benz models there is a service recall for a crankcase vent hose located under the intake manifold. It should be checked for leaks/cracking and also operation of check valve in the hose. The check valve should flow only one way. Possible Solutions It should be stated right off the bat that the most common problem associated with this code is the MAF sensor or air mass meter. This is especially the case with Mercedes-Benz and Volkswagen and other European cars. At time of writing, you don't normally see this code with American-made cars, and minimally with Asian, and, to be honest, I have no idea why. It appears to me that the PCM (powertrain control module) logic used by some European car manufacturers to set a P0170 (or P0173) fault code simply isn't used by American vehicle manufacturers. It is more common to see P0171, 0174, 0172, 0175 codes set with regard to fuel trim malfunctions on American cars. There is very little information on the setting conditions for a P0170, or P0173, but what information that is available almost seems to be a redundancy of the P0171,4,2 & 5 setting conditions. I'm sure there's a reason for it, but I can't get anyone to tell me what that is. The similarities between them may be why we don't see this code surface on domestic vehicles very often. It's simply unnecessary. So, simply put, if you have a P0170, your PCM noticed that the fuel trims reached their rich correction limit. Basically it's adding fuel to try to compensate for a lean condition, real or perceived. If you have this code and access to a scan tool, observe the MAF sensor reading in grams/sec. The reading will be different for different automobiles, so get a good spec. I'm going to stick with what would be normal for a Mercedes (1.8L), since they have the bulk of the trouble. Expect to see at idle 3.5-5 g/s (ideally). At 2500 RPMs with no load it should be between 9 and 12 g/s. On road test, at WOT (wide open throttle) it should be 90 g/s or well above. If it's not in specs, replace it. Be careful of Ebay MAFs. Often they don't work according to OE specifications. If the MAF checks out and there is no oil intrusion at the connector, check fuel pressure and ensure that there are no leaks at the regulator internally or externally. Check all vacuum hoses and confirm none are cracked, disconnected or missing. Make sure there are no vacuum leaks at the intake manifold gaskets or tears in the air supply hose. If the engine is turbo charged, be sure the hoses are in good condition and have no leaks. Leaking turbo pressure hoses could cause a rich condition. Inspect the condition of crankcase vent hose under intake manifold and operation of check valve in the hose. (In the "What are the causes?" section) If there doesn't appear to be any problems with the fuel pressure, MAF or vacuum hoses, then inspect the O2 sensor connectors for oil intrusion. A bad O2 sensor could cause a P0170, or P0173. Repair cause of oil leak and replace oil-fouled O2 sensor. Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0170 Copyright © OBD-Codes.com

You can use a ohmmeter. Test two and compare results. Any "open" circuits are bad.

The window regulator is bad , happens on all vehicles ! You need to take door panel off first !Here is a video how to do it. How To Install Replace Remove Door Panel Subaru Outback 00 04 1AAuto com Can't find a video for the Subaru regulator so added one for a Hyundai , mite be close ! How To Install Replace Front Power Window Regulator 2001 06 Hyundai Elantra

I assume you mean the bumper cover. There's a set of two-piece plastic clips along the top of the bumper. Pry the center section out then the outer piece can be removed. There's more clips along the bottom LH and RH sides. And, there's an M6 bolt in the top of wheel arch end of the cover. You should then be able to remove the cover. The bolts to remove the bumper internal are now accessible.

This is odd.. I take it your front parking lights are working? The reason why I ask is that they are on the same circuit as the rear tail lamps usually. If both front and rears aren't working, check the fuse. If the fuse is good, replace the relay. If only the rears aren't working, check the ground wire for the rear wiring harness to the rear lights. This is still odd as your other lamps usually use the same ground point. Finally, if you aren't the first owner or you recently replaced the bulbs.. did you use the proper bulbs? Some bulbs have two filaments called 21/5 Watters. Some vehicles use special connectors for the bulbs that be inserted in either orientation, but will only work both filaments when inserted properly. Try reversing the lamps inside the connectors, one at a time please between tests.

Front CV joints, especially if the thumping is worse when turning to the left or right.