Subaru Loyale - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 9

Usually when this happens the charging system is acting up. Have the alternator tested when this happens. Also check your battery cables to see if they are tight and clean.

could be air intake problem. check for vacume line loose or air filter needs changed. maybe fuel filter.

Hi.

I think fuse n.15 is radiator fan, in that case there is either a short in fan contacts, or the fan motor is shot and it is drawing too much power.

Check wiring harness to cooling fan, and test fan motor to see if it starts.

Most of the axles I have pulled out only take a good pull straight out from the transmission. You may have to use a pry bar, just put it between the end of axle and transmission to pop it loose. The rotor side should push back through after you remove it from the a arm.

I would change spark plug and wire on #2

more likely your rocker arms--you may have a failing hydraulic lifter. What engine do you have?

Welcome to FixYa.com,
Fuel pump is in the tank, Regards, Lee Davidian

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figure 1


Fig. Fig. 1: Fuel pump assembly mounted under the vehicle-1.8L engine

1. Release the fuel system pressure. Do not reconnect the fuel pump harness.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Raise and support the vehicle safely on jackstands.
4. Clamp the middle portion of the hose connecting the fuel tank pipe and the pump to prevent fuel from flowing out of the tank when unfastened.
5. Loosen the hose clamp and disconnect the hose.
6. Remove the three pump bracket mounting bolts and remove the pump together with the pump damper.

To install:

1. Install the fuel pump and damper, and tighten the bolts securely.
2. Install the hose and tighten the clamp screw to 9-13 inch lbs. (1.0-1.5 Nm).
3. Install the pump bracket in position to the vehicle body and secure it with the bolts.

Take care to position the rubber cushion properly.

1. Connect the pump harness.
2. Connect the negative battery cable and test the fuel pump for proper operation.
3. Check for fuel leaks.

TESTING

1. Turn the ignition ON and listen for the fuel pump to make a growling sound. Turn the ignition OFF .
2. Release the fuel system pressure. Disconnect the pump harness and crank the engine for 5 seconds or more. If the engine starts, allow it to run until it stops. Turn the ignition OFF and install the fuel pump connector.
3. Disconnect the fuel hose at the fuel pump.
4. Connect a gauge in-line using a T-fitting.
5. Start the engine and measure the fuel pressure. If the fuel pressure is not 36-50 psi (248-344 kPa), replace the pump.
6. Release the fuel system pressure and remove the gauge.

in this case i would say you have broken valve/s.adrian,,,

Look for missing grounds in the dash

Then your clutch is shot. Not a small problem.

Recently priced jobber clutch @ $350.

Takes quite a few shop hours to switch one out. 6 and up.

If you haven't easily identified this problem, then I suspect you're not going to be changing your own clutch.

It should be on the drivers side near the brake master cylinder. It should be metal with a hose going to an elbow on top and a hose going out the bottom.

The pneumatic cylinders at the back lose pressure, this is why it sets low. The height is adjusted by varying the air pressure in them so most likely the regulator has aged, its seals are no longer doing their job and the air escapes. The clicking is the air compressor being kept almost continuously activated.
The pneumatic suspension must be completely overhauled - this is a long and complicated job for a shop.

80 to 90 weight gear oil is used in the manual trans.

With out knowing more details, My first thought would be to change the fuel filter. A good tune up always help's. Have a good day.

toward the back of the engine, underneath a little rubber cover, if you look under the hood, it is right on top back toward the firewall. The cover has got a little tip on top to grab onto and pull up. Only a couple of inches long and rectangular in shape. It sits right on top of the engine where it bolts up to the transaxle.

higher Octane than what is recommended will just make matters worse, have u changed the fuel filter and had the electronic engine control ystem checked for codes, this is what needs to be done to get to the bottom of this problem.

Front seating area, driver side, under dash, above brake pedal, mounted in steering column support bracket

i hope this helps you

no your temperature sensor is broken. thats what gives the gauge the reading. you may need a thermostat for different reasons. did you know why the car overheated?

it could be a bad driver door master switch or bad window motors, the best way to pin point the problem is to remove the door panel off every door that doesnt work and then test for power and ground while hitting the switch, if it has power and ground then motor is no good,start there, another option is to test for power and ground at the switches,