Subaru Loyale - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 2

1342...pix here. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/13894-ea82-firing-order/ ...lucky results.

Is the sound coming from that wheel or the other one?

i have the same prob low and hi dont work changed relay, checked fuses... i have power at the relay (LB)

you might have a block catalytic converter

Low oil could definitely cause this trouble. When a vehicle gets low on oil, the friction increases and that causes the pistons to move slower. Slower moving pistons means lower rpms which in turn slows the vehicle. If this condition remains, the parts will not only wear prematurely, they will actually begin to weld themselves together. I would suggest you go to a local mechanic and have a compression test done. I hope it all turns out well for you.

The fuel pump relay is driver side, under dash, above brake pedal, mounted in steering column support bracket on 1991 Loyale this relay also performs an ignition system function

Had the exact same problem and went through the whole dance. Traced problem to relay under the dash , combination ignition/fuel pump relay. The relay was "clicking" but was internally bad, it would not engage circuit for the ignition. Power was indicated at coil and fuel pump would run but the circuit was not complete through the computer to power the ignition sensor in the distributor. I actually had to "gang" 2- 12 vdc coil automotive relays to replace the original relay. Caution... if you decide to gang 2 relays be sure to separate the two circuits, one relay for ignition, one for fuel pump and tie the coil wires together.

Head gasket can be replaced. If crack in the block it depends on how bad it is, where it is and how much you want to put into it once you find it....if it is there. Discolored oil cap goo can be a hundred things. Have compression checked.

There is a very common problem on these early 90's Subaru's, for no reason, the main fusible link in the under hood fuse box next to the drivers side strut tower loves to blow. The symptoms are: no crank, no power to any accessories, completely dead when key is turned to any position as if the battery is disconnected. I had a plastic baggy with about five main fusible links in it, just in case one decided to blow during a trip. Here is a handy picture of what to look for. Replace it even if it looks good, most of the time the wire is toast and it looks fine.

When you say limps along, is it like the brakes are engaged?

most cars can be towed short distances(around 25-30 miles without damage in an emergency..but if the car is towed across country and it is all wheel drive, you need to put the entire car on a flatbed trailer..u-haul rents them..and they require a frame hitch to pull it..usually a stout truck or you can also rent one of their trucks to pull the trailer..

If the starter does not engage you will hear the "growling" in the cab which is usually the fuel pump and is a normal noise, more apparent because of the lack of engine noise. First thing to check is the wiring to the starter under the hood. If it is ok could be contacts in the starter solenoid , starter brushes or a"dead" starter. I would try tapping the starter with a SMALL hammer or the end of a I/2 inch breaker bar while having an assistant turn the key to attempt starting. Stand on driver's side, If spare is mounted under hood, remove spare. The starter is visible and can be tapped from there.

Sounds like the alternator died and shorted out a main fuse.

1. Hi Mike, maybe something got stirred up and lodged in the fuel filter? Maybe the fuel pump finally went? Can you hear the relay click and/or the fuel pump run when you turn on the ignition? Maybe some critter gnawed it's way through a wire or two; they really seem to like our Loyales. I just had one do this because the battery connection was good enough, but then slipped away.

trace the wire

you don't have many options right now, here is what you can try. if the cable broke on the dash end, try to removing the release latch from the dash and grab the remaining part of the cable with locking pliers.if the cable broke at the hood latch end. you will need to pry the latch open in the same direction that the cable release operates.this might be possible with a long flat screw driver with the grill in place. to accomplish this try finding photos of the latch online to see how the mechanism operates. there will be two levers one with the cable attached the other is the safety. the cable lever needs to be released for the hood to open

www.car-part.com

clean the idle control valve with carb or throttle cleaner.and cleanthe butterfly in your throttle with throttle cleaner.or remove throttle body and clean it.do not take apart .

Its got a drain somewhere can you find the sound?

most engines you do