Subaru Forester - Answered Questions & Fixed Issues

It is is intermittent, the reason will be bad connections. First spray that little brightness adjustment wheel with switch cleaner. That is normally the reason. If that doesn't work, check the plugs up behind the dash. https://www.google.com/search?q=2019+Subaru+Forester.+The+Dash+lights+go+dark ..

This explained in the owner's manual, but very poorly. I have asked all sorts of "Experts" from Subaru techs to forum posters, and received a half-dozen different answers.As far as I have been able to determine, operating the "Hold" switch does a couple of things. It is only relevant in "Auto", and not "Sportshift". It starts off in second gear, rather than first. It will hold the car from rolling back on a moderate upgrade.It "seems" to me to "smooth out" the gearshifts.All of this, as far as I can understand, is to avoid sudden changes to traction in snowy / icy / wet conditions. Starting off in first, for example, would cause instant slippage, starting in second is less likely to. Engaging forward gear while rolling backwards, likewise.I am not an expert, nor a mechanic. These are only my observations, and "sifted" knowledge from many different sources...

Changed battery now running lights flash 2000 Forester Quick fix on mine use remote key fob lock door then unlock everything good no more flashing.

I suspect that the tire is old and the steel belts are failing. Pull the wheel off and check the tire for cracks in the tread, any out of round or bulges. Get a new tire (or tires).

I would suspect a bent valve or two when the belt snapped. Verify the belt installation is correct and the timing marks line up. Do a compression test. If a valve is bent, the head has to come off and the valve(s) replaced.

The usual cause is the window motor is worn out. The mechanism (aka regulator) joints are also worn for a 2005. The fix is replace the regulator + motor assembly.

Theoretically, 100,000km but after 80,000 is a good idea to pull them and check the state.

Sound like the auto transmission fluid cooler.

Your mechanic did not adjust the new master cylinder actuator shaft for the correct pedal free- play of about 3-4mm. This shaft can vary in length (normal manufacturing tolerances) which is why there is an adjustment. This is a simple job that takes about 10 minutes. Move the driver's seat backwards, remove the the lower dash panel to access the clutch pedal. The slave cylinder may need rebleeding as well.

Low coolant? Cooling fans not working? Failed water pump? Stuck thermostat.?

if you have any trouble codes remote start wont work other than that notify manufacture or installer to troubleshoot problem

those are not codes those show that you didnt read instructions completely on the use of your scan tool those show that their are codes present depending on unit you either hit next or codes or enter rescan vehicle and continue to next page when those show up

https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/adjusting-headlights.784027/

flush your heater system probably clogged with dirt the coolant shld be circulating continously going to the thermostat in which the heat is responsible for opening the thermostat to allow coolant circulation

Any chance of a head gasket leak? Is the coolant level still full? These were known for head gasket issues. Coolant is a closed system and level will not drop unless there is a leak. Make sure there is no air in the system. Replace the radiator cap to make sure that it is operating properly.

I have a 97 subaru outback and encountered the same problem. It is a security device on all newer subaru's. After changing or charging the battery, leave the negetive battery cable disconnected. Turn the key to the "on" position, then reconnect the negative terminal. This will stop the flashing.

Check the cap and rotor for internal carbon tracking or, just change them. Also, take a look at the coil when its dark and rainy and see if there is any arcing where the coil wire goes into it.

No - bleeding can be done well statically. Use a bleed tool to help get it right. After complete - check vacuum lines to master cylinder for cracks or leaks.

Ignition switch first then look for the ignition relay under the hood.

I have used a flat blade smallest jeweler's screw driver to release connector contacts before when not having the correct contact release tool. The release tools are basically a handle with a thin walled tube at each end, one for socket contacts, the other end for pins. A picture or two of the connector and contacts from each end would be helpful. I hope this is of some help to you.