Subaru Forester - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support - Page 4

Try this linkie: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f151/help-wanted-buy-used-forester-scared-common-problems-51255/

Sounds like your in tank pump isn't working.....and you have no fuel pressure at the fuel rail on the engine. See if you can tell that it turns on when you turn the key on....I'm not familiar with Subarus so I don't know if you can hear them spin up or not......Most any shop can tell you if you have fuel pressure at the rail....the other way is to loosen the fuel line at the rail and turn the key to on ( not crank) and see if you have fuel leaking from the loosened connection.

Check oil level and colour in the box if black or sludgy then change if not then look to torque convertor issue

Hi,if you are talking about the harf-shaft,try putting the car on axle stand and turn the wheel by hand see if the shaft spins strait,hope this was some help,hope you sort it.

Most likely, yes.

it could be something simple or even dangerous. I would look at tire to see if it is wearing uneven, jack it up and see if wheel is tight on hub. Look at lug nuts and see if tight. No joy? Unless you know how and have proper tools for front end repair take to shop

High speed vibration in steering is typically caused by an out-of balance wheel. I suggest having your wheels balanced.

What is the problem, it just bolts down over the spark plug.

I did find this link which may or may not apply to your Subaru http://www.stanleysubaru.com/blog/2014/november/18/why-are-my-lights-still-on-why-wont-my-lights-turn-off.htm

Go to autozone or similar and have vehicle scanned for codes. This will give you a idea what's wrong.

A Friend of mine had a Forrester and I'm sure he was told that the belt should be changed around 90 to 100K as a precaution. You don't want it breaking in the middle of no where. Apparently its a pretty expensive job. I would ring around a few Auto repair shops. 50K seems a bit early for such a job.

That most likely is the brake lights staying on because the brake light switch under dash is out of adjustment and the brake pedal is not touching the button to shut it off. Possibly the spring is disconnected that pulls the pedal up against the brake light switch button. Check this out.

a auto radio shop would be the first choice they can give you a estimate with options. Dealer will just offer to replace.$$$

If the oil level on the engine dipstick is correct, and you used the correct oil, then it is unlikely that you have done anything to damage you engine, however it is normal to also change the oil filer when you change the oil, did you do this. How did you check that the transmission oil was at the correct level and how did you top it up. If the oil has been regularly changed at the correct interval, and the engine has not done huge miles, then it is unlikely that you need to do an engine flush. It is easy to do yourself, as you use an engine flushing oil, run the engine for a short time, and then drain this and put regular oil back into it.

Without seeing them my experience says they are clips that have two pieces. Simply put a screwdriver in the slot and turn like u do a screw but be very careful these are very fragile. When they are almost out pull cover off

could be condensation leaking from a small hole. I have seen some mufflers with a hole about 1/16" just for that purpose. It would do you some good to try and pinpoint exactly where it is coming from. Also, if you are not loosing any coolant, probably nothing to worry about. For coolant to come out exhaust, in most cases, you would have to have coolant entering a cylinder and it would show up in poor performance, very white smoke out exhaust while driving, and lose of coolant.

If it can be jumped at the solenoid then I would check out the ignition switch or the actual key cylinder insert. Some key inserts have plastic tabs on the sides or end and these will wear over time

At 213K km, there's wear in the valve guides (== more oil consumption), the O2 sensor(s) are getting tired, and the plug wires and plugs are old. All these can cause the jerkiness. Changing the plug wires would be a good start, followed by the plugs, unless thus has been done. A tired O2 sensor usually sets the occasional 420 error code. You could also try resetting the ECU. What this does is place it into a learning mode, and the jerkiness may disappear for a while. If it does, it means the ECU is running the engine around the edge conditions. Replacing the O2 sensor may help, but don't do it unless you get an error code. Also, check for exhaust leaks on the "donut" connection after the catalytic converter. Even a small leak can cause the O2 sensor to report "off" conditions.