Subaru Forester - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 6

check fuses and relays --have car scanned for trouble code --if you tested the sensors and are good --check your wiring and connections --hubs /wheel bearings --

Forester wheel lug torque spec is 89 lb-ft.

Have you performed a OBD2 fault code test? If not do so.

Visit the on-line store, know as reliable-store, they have the repair manuals. I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem. Best Manuals

Nicklaus, shifter lock solenoid, maybe the brake light fuse, Check fuse 16 in the fuse block down in the left foot well. Center fuse in bottom row. If fuse is blown could be bad break light switch, damaged wires,corroded bulb sockets,etc. Have checked out by a good technician.

it sounds like timing skipped a tooth

No. Brake light has nothing to do with that. You probably have some more damaged wires somewhere. Rats mice and squirrels can do major damage to wiring harnesses and often chew them in multiple places

is the Check Engine Light on? many newer cars will illuminate several lights and disable systems if the ECU records a DTC.

Your symptoms pretty much indicate a transmission failure.

You can't rebuild this or any other modern catalyst.

Could be loose or bad connection at the battery, starter, ground wire to frame or motor. May be ignition switch do you show a check engine light. If you are totally loosing power it may be clearing the code. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wivr5T6HKdY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E7h5KaX2-Y8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=552j9w0WKEw

Gaylene Green, If you already had a heating issue... just skip over all this meaningless RE-Torque "STUFF" If there was no overheating before this procedure... I would suggest either the WRONG GASKETS were used... or they were somehow reversed blocking a water passage). TORQUE has two ways to go... Too loose = leaks (water and/or combustion) Too TIGHT = Broken bolt/stripped threads If it will make you happy Sure... TIGHTEN... and then RE-TIGHTEN... after running. That USED to be the way it was done... until they came out with WONDERFUL "Modern" head gaskets... (tighter... never looser... and NEVER (MORE) too tight. If you think your torque is too much... you MUST also follow the REVERSE torque pattern when loosening (else risk a fractured casting (FOR REALS)). Although I seriously doubt the desired effect... The answer is SURE...!! Go for it... Re-Torque... (Could not possibly hurt... unless you do it wrong!) Just not sure of the "OVERHEAT" diagnosis... sounds more than a bit odd. *** If there is any previous history of overheating... I would pursue that as an INDEPENDANT issue. Thermostat, defective water pump... radiator cap... or crusted up radiator (any or all of the above + rotten casting plugs in the engine). Head torque... Naaah.

Master switch or motor bad

You may have mistakenly drained the transmission fluid. Was the oil reddish in color?

Then you do not have them correctly adjusted.

I assume you mean the cooling system overflow reservoir is emptying out and you need to keep topping up the coolant level. This means you either have an external leak or internal leak in the cooling system. Yes that is a big concern because the cooling system is critical for your engine. There can be numerous causes and you need to have the loss of coolant investigated. If the cooling system loses fluid as it is doing your engine can overheat and if this occurs you will experience very expensive engine damage. So have it checked out by a professional very soon. In the meantime ensure that the cooling system is topped up to the correct level and monitor the coolant temperature gauge on your instrument panel which should stay below the half way mark.

Check your oil again, its low

Hi,it sounds like you have damaged your own battery . I would get a auto electrician to pinpoint the failure or someone who can check your battery to see if its holding a charge and if its ok you need to move on to say the alternator.

2014 2015 Subaru Forester Complete Workshop Service Repair Manual for the easy solution download the pdf file

Undo the outer axle nut, then undo the strut (two bolts) and fold the upright outwards. You can then get the axle put of the hub, then out of the diff.