Subaru Forester - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 4

Impossible to diagnose without the trouble codes. Get the codes read and post here. ALWAYS start by reading the trouble codes to get a starting point.

Could be a faulty switch or a wiring problem. A dealer or authorized repair shop can answer the question about what is wrong and provide a cost estimate to repair it.

Take it to your parts store and have the code read. They make those lights for a reason...helps you identify the system failure

Did something fall down in one of the vents? Sounds like a blend door is not able to fully move for some reason. If it's still under warranty take it to the dealer.

indicates that it is the booster or second ,a faulty brake master cylinder boosters can be repaired for considerably less than that or get a good unit from the wreckers /junk yards get a second opinion from an accredited brake specialist shop

Try disconnecting the battery and ensure it is fully charged, recharge if necessary. Leave it disconnected overnight if possible. Unlock and open the car, fit the ignition key and switch on and then reconnect the battery (leaving the door open). This has worked for me. I hope it works for you.

The brake pads are okay? Alternator and pump belts are okay?

Getting all the air out is actually quite simple. Fit the thermostat. Make absolutely sure you know which way it goes in: ask the dealer if you are unclear. Put it in backwards and it does not work properly. Fill the radiator, and start the engine and let it idle. In about 5 minutes, the thermostat will open and the coolant level will go down. Stop the engine, fit the cap and top up the coolant. Now, squeeze the top hose, say, 10 times: you'll hear the coolant gurgle a bit. Remove the cap and top up the coolant. Start the engine and repeat. Eventually the gurgling will stop and all the air is out of the engine. Usually takes 2 or 3 iterations. Do the final top up and take it for a run.

AWD problem? Maybe, it depends on whether your car is a manual or automatic. Manual: clicking and rattling is commonly bearing wear in the transfer case. There's three bearings that have to replaced. The transfer case can be removed without taking the transmission out. Automatic: The car is normally front wheel drive, and sensors control the transfer case (NOT the same as the manual) AWD clutches to connect the rear drive. This clutch system may be the issue. The symptom is more commonly a grinding sound when turning. HOWEVER ... The knocking /clicking sound you feel in the steering wheel is the important diagnostic. This is often caused by a worn front axle INNER CV joint. What happens is the wear makes the CV jam as it rotates. Wear can result in steering wheel shimmy, similar to an out of balance wheel/tire. It can also result in heavy steering on turns. It's simple to check. Jack up each front wheel, and check for rotational slop between the axle and the CV carrier on the transmission. Anything more than 2mm means youneed new axles.

If you had this done, you paid for it to be done right. Take it back and have it redone.

Sounds like the starter bearings are seizing up.

the low cost fix would be to use an oil additives. I recommend lucas from experience with a few oil burning subarus I have owned. The link is for the high mileage formual as I found it worked better. http://lucasoil.com/products/engine-oil-additives/high-mileage-oil-stabilizer

is the cabin filter new? id check that. might be restricting air. if not then control unit might be faulty. it could also be those cable that change where the air should be.

You have a dead battery. The procedure to fix it is as follows: 1) Charge battery. 2) check alternator belt tension. If loose, tighten or replace. 3) If still no start, replace battery.

The CEL and Cruise blinking is the error indication. Could be any of several issues. 1. The gas cap is loose, or leaking. This is a VERY common error and is written up in the owners manual. The fuel filler neck could have a leak or rust hole. 2. A small exhaust leak on the "donut" gasket in front of the catalytic converter can cause a"cat inefficiency error", fixable by replacing the donut. For an '07, it unlike that the $200+ fuel/air O2 sensor or the cat needs replacing.

Is your check engine light on? If it is yo can have it check to dee what code is stored. This should help lead you to the problem.

I think it's a ground problem or a fuse problem. The simplest way to fix a ground problem is to add another ground wire from the negitive on battery to the engine block. (assuming it's a negitive ground vehicle. 99% of cars are) You may have to look at your wire bundle that runs to the lights that are out and check the connection on the wire that runs to the frame. That's your ground wire. To check your fuses, see your operating manual. Hope this helps. Good Luck.

check the coolant temp sensor , fuses , relay and fan for operation if electric fans if manual fan replace the viscous fan hub have a pressure test done on cooling system to check for cracked tanks or other leaks over 5 years old and never changed the water conditioner (antifreeze/boil concentrate ), consider replacing the radiator

Any chance of a head gasket leak? Is the coolant level still full? These were known for head gasket issues. Coolant is a closed system and level will not drop unless there is a leak. Make sure there is no air in the system. Replace the radiator cap to make sure that it is operating properly.

It could be that the return port in your brake master cylinder is blocked and it takes a while after you stop to bleed back. Col