Subaru Forester - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals - Page 10

May have to hook it up to a scan tool capable of testing for Theft Deterrent codes

You can have worn bearings on the pinion gear and/or worn universal joints.

Check the transmission fluid, make sure it has plenty in it. You didn't mention what year it is but if you have very many miles on it the fluid should be changed around 25 thousand miles. The filter on the transmission could be clogged. With out seeing the car it is hard to tell. You should be able to get a code if there is a transmission problem. Have someone hook a code scanner to and see. I hope this is helpful. Giving such information as mileage, regular maintenance, year, make model, all help us give you a better diagnosis.

Try disconnecting the battery for 1/2 hr. Or take it to the dealership for a diagnosis.

The lights will illuminate for two seconds when the ignition is turned to the on position The lights will turn on and then off when the engine is started The lights may come on and stay lit after the engine has started then turns off when the vehicle reaches about 25 mph / 40 kph The lights may come on during driving but then turn immediately off. - - However, do not hesitate having the computer codes and system checked by your Subaru specialist. Good luck.

Hello, it is most likely the vehicle speed sensor. There is only one and should be mounted on the passengers side in the upper center section of the trans. The Subaru pin-point test says: Step 1-Is the vehicle an automatic?...No, then go to step 3- Does the speedometer operate normally?...No, Then check speedometer and VSS. I own two Subys and I've replace the speed sensor on one of them, I haven't seen to many gauge pods go out but it's not unheard of. But it's a lot cheaper to try a vehicle speed sensor than it is for a gauge pod. I hope this info helps!

No such device. It sounds like you are not getting fuel. Try this: * disconnect the battery for about 30 seconds. This will reset the ECU, which causes it to re calibrate the engine management. Check if the ECU is throwing any sort of error code. Your fender bender may have damaged some wiring, or the repair may have left something disconnected.

If it were a large leak, the vehicle would idle fast, then the iac would reduce to stabilize the issue. We have had a few units needing the tank system smoked. Was this a part of the smoke job you received?? There is a bleed or purge valve in the rear which is hard to smoke and tell if it is defective. With out the entire values, it would be very difficult to diagnose over the net. Good luck

The problem with answering that question is that not enough CVT's have been on the road long enough to really do a good analysis of their longevity. I know that if taken care of, a conventional automatic transmission can go the distance. My mothers car was a 2004 Nissan CVT which has almost 200K and hasn't faltered one bit. You have to think about which one would be more expensive to repair/replace out of pocket. Which one is cheaper to service/maintain, I do know that CVT fluid is more expensive than conventional auto trans fluid. I personally like feeling the car shift, and the conventional would be my choice at that point based on aesthetics. I hope this info helps!

Have you checked the bulbs? Fog lights go through bulbs regularly around here.

Light bar? Third party device? I'd recommend the MFG website for their installation instructions if there are none that came with the new part. Or try the store you bought the part from.

you only do a computer reset when the check engine light is on if you have an obd2 scanner at your disposal, you can reset the computer that way AKA clearing any stored trouble codes in the computer

almost any automotive parts store has them

There are separate flashers for directional and emergency lights so they might not flash at the same rate.

Measure the voltage on the alternator. Should be about 14v. Then measure on the battery. If its not the same, then the wire from the alternator to the battery is open. Look for a 60 or 80A fuse in the fuse box. Run a heavy gauge wire from the alternator to the battery and see if the charging works.

check aerial connection loosing

Most autoparts stores carry them or try filepeep.com or manualslib.com

Have you checked the oil,checked to see if dipstick and fuel cap are tight.Do you have oil spots on driveway? Those are the first things I would check,if oil is on driveway is it coming from the oil pan.It 'seems" it May be tied in with the oil change from 2 weeks ago

Do headlights work? Do they get dim when you hit the start position, if so battery has bad cell. Bad batteries might be OK after charging and running the car for a time but will discharge after car sits for maybe longer than a half hour. Usually a bad cell. Take to auto parts store, they will load test it for free.

If your battery is good you have a current draw somewhere. Do you have any aftermarket or non Subaru things installed? Like a radio, remote starter or a hardwired GPS or the like? If improperly installed they are often the cause of a draw on your battery. I've seen batteries that test good with a load tester after taking a full charge but will still not HOLD a charge. If there's no aftermarket stuff installed, I think you most likely have a bad battery.