Rover 45 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

engine lights indicate a serious problem that if unattended will cause costly repairs removing fuses achieves nothing so keep your mate well away from the car if you want to save money you will have to get a scanner to read the fault codes ( free from many auto spares shops ) and work on the fault from there by removing fuses , it is possible that the immobilizer has been activated so you will need the scanner to reset it to get it going again

It is depending on your experience and the location of the alternator. You'll need the proper tools, and it is recommended to remove the alternator and take it in when you purchase the replacement to be sure you get the right one. Also, you won't be charged for the core because you will already have it there. Be sure to disconnect the battery before starting the job. Some alternators are really buried in the engine compartment, so you may need to remove other components to gain access. You'll also need to remove the serpentine belt, so be sure you know how to do that.

You need to be more specific, but the manufacturer may be able to provide the wiring diagram.

think the wire to the starter motor is damaged ?? try turning ignition on and running a wire from + on the battery to the small wire on the starter motor ?? and remember do not leave the key in with the door open as this will activate the immobilisor ,open the window ?,Seem to remember their is a relay for the starter motor in the power distribution box under the bonnet maybe the low side of the circuit in this relay has burnt out causing the short who knows ,with my head under the bonnet i would sort this in minutes as these cars are quite simple but the better ones had honda engines

not 100% sure but think there is adjusting screw if you remove the rear ashtray

very easy. remove interior door panel and plastic damp shield. the mechanism needs to be released from the glass 2 clamps 10mm head bolts i think you may have to reposition the glass for access, disconnect electric connector. the unit is held in place by 8mm head fixings5 off i think,keep the glass in place at top with strong tape or a assistant. remove the complete mechanism out of the door through the holes in the door. you can then seperate the motor from the reg. mechanism.

sound as if the antilock brake mechanism is kicking in. check level of brake fluid. get Quikfit or similar to check it over

See prev ans

Get car on a scanner to check codes. May have a vacuum leak or inlet man gasket fault

Depends on what engine is fitted. If its Honda unit it will be the distributor unit which is overheating. Replace it. If not Honda unit, get car scanned first for DTC faults

See prev ans

If red light is flashing on crank, the immobiliser is on. Engine will crank but not fire. See my prev and for new fobs or get expensive auto elected to come and fix on site

If it's cable drawn it's most of the time at the selector switch most vehicles now these days are vacuumed drawn and u will have a vacuum leek search for a broken or cracked hose

try to bleed the system, if you have presure the clutch master cylinder is ok, but if the slave cylinder retracts by it self after holding the pedal , the slave is the problem, the slave is on the transmission, pushes the fork, the master is at the pedal where you apply the force.

google it and look for pictures. Or, Youtube it

if your car one it will be on the bulkhead, under the bonnet adjacent to the clutch pedal. I thought your car had a cable though.

70 k miles or 5 years