IMR - Inlet Manifold Runner valve

not necessarily
have a compression test done first to eliminate the gasket
other points are: - the inlet manifold v motors use a passage in the inlet manifold to cross water between the heads at the back
if your motor is a v motor (not included in the question ) then there could be a corrosion hole in the manifold letting water in to the combustion chamber
corrosion in the head that is allowing water to the inlet manifold --won't show up in a compression test as it will be on the inlet side of the valves
any problems such as a blown head gasket , cracked head or corrosion in the combustion chamber will result in overheating of the engine so the problem ( if the compression test is good ) will be corrosion in a part that is connected to the inlet manifold such as a EGR valve

Well basically, you remove the intake plenum and replace the gasket and reinstall the plenum. Here are the steps:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the remote jumper terminal located at the right strut tower.
2. Remove the air inlet resonator and tube.
3. Remove the throttle actuator cables from the throttle arm and bracket.
4. Disconnect Secondary Runner Valve (SRV), Manifold Tuning Valve (MTV), Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), Idle Air Control (IAC) motor electrical connectors.
5. Remove the electrical connector and the Intake Air Temperature/Manifold Absolute Pressure (TMAP) sensor.
6. Disconnect vacuum hoses from the Secondary Runner Valve (SRV) reservoir, Speed Control reservoir, and PCV.
7. Remove right and left intake manifold supports.
8. Remove support brackets at the intake manifold front corners and MTV.
9. Loosen upper fastener attaching throttle body to support bracket.
10. Remove clips attaching EGR tubes to intake manifold.
11. Remove intake manifold bolts and manifold
12. Remove old gaskets, Clean gasket surfaces, and install new gaskets.
13. Reverse steps to reinstall manifold

Hi, I have pasted the procedure from autozone.com below. Because this requires removal of the intake manifold, please be as sure as possible that your starter needs replacement. If you have any doubt, please let me know what your symptoms are and what troubleshooting you have done that led you to believe your starter is bad. Also, if you have any questions about the procedure below, please let me know. Thanks for using FixYa.

Removal & Installation

Disconnect the Negative battery cable

Relieve the fuel system pressure (you can do this by placing a rag over the schrader valve on the fuel rail and pressing in the valve stem--just be careful not to spray fuel on your eyes).

Drain the cooling system.

Remove or disconnect the following:

• Intake manifold heat shield

• Sight shield
• Coil module connectors from the coil modules located on the valve covers

• Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose and valve from the valve cover
• Fuel regulator vacuum tube
• Vacuum tubes from the AIR solenoid
• Fuel inlet and return lines
• Fuel rail bracket retaining nut at the rear lift bracket
• 2 pushnuts attaching the engine coolant heater wire and set it aside, if equipped
• Fuel injector electrical connections
• Fuel rail and injectors
• Plenum duct clamp at the rear of the intake manifold, loosen
• Intake manifold bolts and the manifold

Clean the manifold mating surfaces.

Remove or disconnect the following:
Starter electrical connectors Starter motor

Fig. View of starter motor removal and wires

To install:

Install or connect the following:

• -S- terminal wire. Torque the nut to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
• Starter electrical connectors. Torque the nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
• Starter motor
• Mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).

Fig. Intake manifold torque sequence- 4.6L engines

1. Grease the inside edge of the rubber plenum duct.
2. Position the intake manifold by performing the following sub-steps:
   1. Place the rear of the intake manifold into the plenum duct.
   2. Place the front of the intake manifold downward on to the cylinder heads.
   
   
3. Install the intake manifold bolts and torque to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) in the sequence illustrated. DO NOT torque the intake manifold bolts when the engine is HOT or at operating temperature.
4. Make sure the plenum duct is fully attached to the rear of the intake manifold and tighten the plenum duct clamp to 20 inch lbs. (2.25 Nm).
5. Install or connect the following:
   
   Fuel rail and injectors and tighten the rail retainers to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) Fuel injector electrical connections Alternator coolant pipe/surge tank pipe and position onto the fuel rail studs Engine coolant heater wire onto the studs and install the pushnuts, if equipped Fuel rail bracket retaining nut at the rear lift bracket and tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) Fuel inlet and return lines Vacuum tubes to the AIR solenoid Fuel regulator vacuum tube Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve and hose to the valve cover Coil module connectors to the coil modules located on the valve covers Sight shield Intake manifold heat shield Negative battery cable
   
6. Fill and bleed the cooling system.

Hi!!
These are the steps to follow to remove the Starter Motor and the Intake Manifold. If you follow them you'll have no problems when the job is done. Pay special attention to the pre-installation steps for the Intake Manifold.

To Replace the Starter, Remove or disconnect the following:

1. Negative battery cable
2. Intake manifold
3. Starter electrical connectors
4. Starter motor

View of starter motor removal and wires


To install, Install or connect the following:

1. -S- terminal wire. Torque the nut to 35 inch lbs. (4 Nm).
2. Starter electrical connectors. Torque the nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
3. Starter motor
4. Mounting bolts. Torque the bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
5. Intake manifold
6. Negative battery cable

INTAKE MANIFOLD
PRIOR TO REMOVAL:

• Relieve the fuel system pressure
• Drain the cooling system.

Remove or disconnect the following:

1. Negative battery cable
2. Intake manifold heat shield
3. Sight shield
4. Coil module connectors from the coil modules located on the valve covers
5. Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose and valve from the valve cover
6. Fuel regulator vacuum tube
7. Vacuum tubes from the AIR solenoid
8. Fuel inlet and return lines
9. Fuel rail bracket retaining nut at the rear lift bracket
10. 2 pushnuts attaching the engine coolant heater wire and set it aside, if equipped
11. Fuel injector electrical connections
12. Fuel rail and injectors
13. Plenum duct clamp at the rear of the intake manifold, loosen Intake manifold bolts and the manifold
14. Clean the manifold mating surfaces.

Intake manifold torque sequence- 4.6L engines




PRIOR TO INSTALL:

• Grease the inside edge of the rubber plenum duct.
• Position the intake manifold by performing the following sub-steps:
• Place the rear of the intake manifold into the plenum duct.
• Place the front of the intake manifold downward on to the cylinder heads.
• Install the intake manifold bolts and torque to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm) in the sequence illustrated. DO NOT torque the intake manifold bolts when the engine is HOT or at operating temperature.
• Make sure the plenum duct is fully attached to the rear of the intake manifold and tighten the plenum duct clamp to 20 inch lbs. (2.25 Nm).

Install or connect the following:

1. Fuel rail and injectors and tighten the rail retainers to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
2. Fuel injector electrical connections
3. Alternator coolant pipe/surge tank pipe and position onto the fuel rail studs
4. Engine coolant heater wire onto the studs and install the pushnuts, if equipped
5. Fuel rail bracket retaining nut at the rear lift bracket and tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
6. Fuel inlet and return lines
7. Vacuum tubes to the AIR solenoid
8. Fuel regulator vacuum tube
9. Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve and hose to the valve cover
10. Coil module connectors to the coil modules located on the valve covers
11. Sight shield
12. Intake manifold heat shield
13. Negative battery cable
14. Fill and bleed the cooling system.

Good Luck!! A HELPFUL - 4 THUMBS - rating for this solution would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for using FixYa.