Vehicle Inspection required drive cycles.

It's called a drive cycle, and yes, there are certain parameters that the ECU stores for calibration. In many states that require yearly vehicle inspections, they will make sure a drive cycle has been completed before passing inspection, just to make sure that someone hasn't cleared the codes to get the check engine light to shut off to pass inspection. A simple trip that includes some highway speeds and start & stop driving is usually sufficient to complete a drive cycle.

It's not the battery itself that's the issue. When you disconnected the battery to replace it, you cleared all the data from the computer. The computer then runs a self test of all systems to determine that they are functioning properly. There are several systems to be tested, and until they pass the test, each system is classified 'not ready'. Some system tests are done very quickly, with only one 'drive cycle', and they become 'ready'. Some systems require multiple drive cycles, and take longer. For some vehicles, specific criteria have to be met. On my vehicle, before the vapor recovery system can be tested, the fuel tank has to be between 1/4 and 3/4 full.

Some testing stations (depending on state) require all systems to be 'ready'. Some require a specific number to be 'ready', e.g., seven of nine. Find out what the requirements are, and which systems still need to complete testing, then check with a dealer for your make/model to see what is required to complete testing for that (those) systems.

Drive cycles vary by manufacturer. It can be as simple as driving at highways speeds for a certain number of miles, or it can bea number of times the vehicle is started and warmed up, then turned off to cool down. A new car dealership service department may be able to tell you what the drive cycle is for your particular vehicle. Anytime you clear the computer on your vehicle, either by using a scanner, or removing power from the computer, you must go through the designated number of drive cycles to reset the computer diagnostics. It's a lousy system, and the auto industry should be required to conform to some kind of standard for all vehicles, regardless of make and model. But, for now, it's not clear exactly what you need to do to achieve the required drive cycles. If your inspection has expired, keep the documents you received when your vehicle failed the last test, just in case you get pulled over by the police.

After a certain amount of drive cycles at certain temps & lots of other perameters, the vehicle does a self test to see if the fuel system holds vacuum for a period of time. Depending on how long it holds the vacuum determines if it is ok or leaking fast or slow. Usually it is a rotted line or fuel tank filler neck. You probably will never smell gas fumes or notice any loss of fuel economy. Some states require that you can not have a check engine light on to pass its state inspection.

Some vehicles require very specific drive cycles (called "drive traces" if you perform them on a road simulator or dyno) to activate certain self-checks like the catalyst and EVAP monitors. As a general rule, doing some stop-and-go driving around town at speeds up to about 30 mph followed by five to seven minutes of steady 55 mph highway speed driving will usually set most or all of the monitors. Consequently, if you're checking an OBD II system and discover that one or more of the monitors have not run, it may be necessary to test drive the vehicle to set the remaining monitors.

You should talk to a good emission tec, if this is not throwing a code, it is hard to say if that one of the components could be bad. O2,pump,convert, HeO2, every part of the emission system.

With a 1000 miles, and doing what is says above just before the test, and ending driving at the test
should be plenty. If it is not, you will have to have each emission part checked, or when the computer
is plugged in it might show a code that did not trip dash light.