20 Most Recent 2004 Chevrolet Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Z71 - Page 9 Questions & Answers

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you filled AF 50% and forgot to burp pout all the air? if that then scan the PCm see why it runs. is AC on too? if yes turn it off,see if fans stop' a new thermostat would have been wise at RAD swap. 8 years old. wrong size RAD put in, No engine size told but RAN matches engine there. with scan took look for DTC errors then push PID button and pick ECT sensor see about 200f, boiling is 265F fans might kick on at ECT of 220F , look and see the real temp. if temp gauge (got one) read random that is air pockets in the coolant loop, not good that ever. we learn how to burp engine correctly and carefully, then when next fully cold engine, cap of RAD neck see AF tool low add it too full and at the overfill bottle <<1/2full here)

I would start by making sure that the timing is correct. With the #1 plug removed, hand crank the engine until you feel compression coming from the cylinder. Then slowly hand crank until the piston is at tdc. The timing mark on the balancer should show at 0 tdc. If not, the balancer may have slipped . The distributors rotor should be pointing to the #1 cylinder terminal. The firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 .

Check the headlight switch. https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm/4.3L-5.0L-5.7L/headlight-switch-test-1990-1994-page-1 And use a scanner to see what codes are in the computer for the service engine problem.

A very small leak is indicated by the computer which is usually the gas cap. When you change the cap make sure that the threads in the tank are clean. Spray a little wd-40 on them.

well the battery is now dead (or only discharged !) cause #1 ALT/Gen replaces WRONG, see here 10,000 times. more www. driving a car the ALTERNATOR produces all Electrical power. 100amps x 13v is 1300watts, and runs ALL> when it dies the battery is sucked dry/dead/ discharged. 1; remove neg lug from battery or BOOM (100amp fuse BLOWN) 2; remove ALT 3: new one back connected same. 4: battery NEG lug back bingo no BOOM.! every SM manual of every car tells that;. you said didn't want to start but I guess you meant starter is dead, or clicks only or will not spin fast as it must. the 15mins is dead accurate, for 50 years driving seen this happen as ALT goes dead at night, in the day engine runs 30min to 1hour dead ALT , HEADS off the blow fuse is just bay fuse or worse, a fuseable link, oddity not fun to fix. ever. thus step 1, no engine told but let me look on uSA car thjis. 2010 not AVEO5 there it is but what it looks like, hummmmmm

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most drain plugs are on the bottom of the radiator with a drain **** . The drain could be on bottom front, back or bottom. Again its on the bottom Good Luck Mike L.

Connecting or even touching reverse polarity damages the electronic modules. You will need a good auto electrician to connect a pro grade scan tool and check all the sensors and modules.

Your cheapest option will be a salvage yard. New, it is $86 because it is part of the control stalk. remove it completely and see if you can fix the spring and latch mechanism in it.

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Brake Lines parts diagram and parts suppliers. Garages will make the lines and fittings in the shop. https://www.google.com/search?q=1991+chevy+1500+brake+line+diagram ..

Check the distributor for water. Check all of the electrical connections to make sure they are dry. Check a spark plug to see if you are getting a spark by pulling off a plug wire, holding it close to a ground source and cranking over the engine.

V6 cranks fast the cranks shaft but engine does no start or run or stay running, there are 50 causes, !!!! I guess you tied 25 of the 50. your shop has no idea at all how to test modern EFI cars.! sorry. not at all , he is a PRO GRADE guessomanicac, and now you are broke $$$$$$$ in a REAL ASE shop they use tools that test for it ALL, NOT GUESSING EVER. have spark?, no not just 1 cylinder but all must work and not wired backward/. AND 6 hV WIRE NOT CONNECT WRONG ,FIRING ORDER MUST TO KEPT, CHANGE CAP 1 WIRE HV AT A TIME TO NEW CAP SO TO KEEP DIRECTION AND ORDER CORRECT. fuses are first all must be good. EFI can not run a bad engine ever, weak yes bad NO, that be magic. compressesion at spec or over 150PSI x6 and all equal near. cats not melted, vacuum test cranked proves that. EGR not stuck open or it will not want top start, or only sputter like mad. scan next, the PCm is cutting dead the pump if relay is not energized on purpose. A VOLTMETER TO RELAY PINS PROVES THAT EASY. the PCM will cut fuel if spark is detected by it to be bad. BY DESIGN. The same is true if TPS fails and signals Wot ALL THE TIME. GROUND WIRE TO TPS CUT OFF DOES THAT EASY. it kicks is wrong dead wrong, it must run for 3 seconds and repeat the spray 3second, and crank then repeat 3 times, hear the engine run until the spray there burn dry so this engine bad. KICK TO MEAN MEANS NOT RUNNING FOR 3 SECONDS. EACH TIME TIMED, WE CAN DO IF OVER AND OVER. IT WILL RUN FOR ABOUT 3 SECONDS, AND WE LISTEN TO IT RUN DOES ENGINE SOUND GOOD? IT MUST OR STOP HERE. PARK YOU WALLET NOW. spark good,. timed right? OMG DISTRIBUTOR REMOVED AND NOT PUT IN CORRECTLY TIMED TO TDC 0deg TDC #1 firing, on compression stroke not the exh. stoked, a real tech uses timing light to make sure spark is timed right, not guessing ever on distrib engines. I bet they now added more parts bad or put in wrong. now 2 or 3 more problems not just 1. test spark at the single coil pack, only, pulled from distributor end lots of techs now never seen distributor in there life or only photos 20 years old. it must be timed by you, test the coil first then do static time as the manual sows then when running later do the exact timing adjustments at hot idle. and last FUEL: fuel is LaST never first of go broke super fast. ENGINE GOOD, AND SPARK GOOD ALL 6 AND TIMED TO SPEC. the ECU cuts fuel; many ways. 1: fuseS blowN, 2; IMMO LAMPS GLOWING WRONG OMG NEVER SEEN IMMO ? 3: eCU , SEES SPARK BAD SO CUTS ALL FUEL (ON PURPOSE) 4: TPS BAD (WIRES)_STUCK AT WOT AND ECU CUTS FUEL, AGAIN ON PURpOSE. 5: CMP DEAD CAM SENSOR 6: CPK DEAD CRANK SENSOR. NOW THAT SCAN TOOL. CONNECT TOO, KEY ON SCAN IT SEE STORED ERROR GOT P03XX ERRORS. CRANK IT FOR 5 SECONDS , KEY RELEASED NOW , NOT OFF SCAN AGAIN ,SEE dTC BINGO. IN ALL TESTS BATTERY KEPT FULLY CHARGED USING A BATTERY CHARGER, 5-20AMPS RATED, TELL THEM DISTRIBUTORS CANNOT BE THROWN ON. EVER. IT MUST BE TIMED AND SPARK FIRING ORDER NOT LOST. THE SERVICE MANUAL TELLS HOW, RTM<? BEST PRACTICE HERE IS PUT ENGINE CRANK PULLEY AT TDC MARK 0-DEGR. AND #1 CYLINDER FIRING, NOT EXHAUSTING BUT TOP OF #1 COMPRESSION STOKE THEN REPLACE THE DISTRIB. 1 WIRE AT A TIME, OLD TO NEW AND SAME HV TOWER TERM THEN INSERT DISTRIB SO ROTOR POINTS TO #1 TERM HV TOP. AND LOCK IT DOWN. good luck not going broke find a 40 + year old tech that worked distributors back 20years ago and win. kids now have no clues.(many) avoid them . find gray hairs, win.

Spark plug gap will usually not cause the engine to stall out. This vehicle should be fuel injected. The idle is controlled by the computer. How did you set it up? Have you scanned the computer for trouble codes to point you in the right direction? Check for vacuum leaks.

You'll need to know how big the fuel tank is on your truck. They used different sized tanks depending on the box or body fitted. I think the standard body box was a 26 gallon tank and the long body box was a 34 gallon. This will help you work out your actual miles per gallon. That model's factory figures have it at between 12 to 13 mpg average. How and where you drive your truck can also affect you fuel consumption quite a lot, City driving, Hard accelerating, Lots of steep hills where you drive and Driving Off Road all can ruin you MPG figures. Using the your numbers that does seem a little lower than it should be. When was it last given a full service? Have you changed fuel supplier, (different gas station). All of these affect MPG Do you have any warning lights on the Dashboard? Use the comment button below with more information and I'll try to help you more. Using your numbers here's the math. 26 gallon tank - half tank = 13 gallons. 34 gallon tank - half tank = 17 gallons. You got 104 miles. Sum used is 'Miles achieved divided by the number of gallons used'. (26 tank) 104 divided by 13 = 8 Mpg. (34 tank) 104 divided by 17 = 6 Mpg.

it's not bad , 99.9999% of the time (PCM/TCM, BCM?) which one? no country told or engine you have or transmission A/T? or what drive train is in the car, not told , and the cost , varies all over earth, (radically)

1. used
2. new
3. rebuilds

• find a real shop
• get them to diagnose it
• then buy parts, in that order or go broke super fast you will.

It is between 9 and 13 psi Hope it helps.

The security system does not disable the starter, it disables the fuel system. I would make sure the cable connections are clean and tight. If so, I would have the starter tested.

Hi, this could be due to a bad starter, battery, inverter or something else. Please get a jumpstart and take your car to the nearest autozone so they can give your car a free diagnostic scan which will print out a list of all of it's issues. Thank you.