20 Most Recent 2003 Honda Accord 2.4 LX Questions & Answers

dismantle to gain access to bulb, replace with appropriate bulb

may be the fan relay not working

That's how to do it. Make sure seatbelt is not allowing the seat to pivot.

Sounds like you did a good job checking the obvious areas. The next steps are to check the cooling temp sensor and the fan switch. Use a multimeter to check resistance at both cold and hot temps.If the switch is open at COLD, it should close when HOT in order to activate the fan. If it remains open all the time, you need to replace the switch. You can bench test the switch rather than trying to test it mounted in the engine.

Your heater core is partially blocked. I know you flushed it, but you can't get all of the sediment out and make it flow under low RPM because of the blockage caused by scale and oxidation caused by minerals in water/coolant. Try to flush it again using CLR, and if that doesn't work, you'll most likely have to replace it. Hope this helped!

One thing that happens on older Hondas is that the fuel pressure bleeds off when they sit overnight. The fuel pump puts out 40 psi, and the system is supposed hold that pressure when the car is off. The check valve is weak. Then you try to start it and with no fuel pressure it takes awhile to start, and may run rough for a few seconds. To see if this is the cause, on your first start of the day, turn the key on but don't try to start it. When all the warning lights are on. The fuel pump will run for 2 seconds, then turn off. If it is quiet enough, you might hear it, or the main relay clicking off after 2 seconds. Cycle the key on for 2 seconds and then off, do this 5-6 times. Then try to start it. If it starts right up, you know the problem. Most people just accept this, because the check valve is part of the fuel pump, and this isn't cheap.

Consult the manual... you may have assembled something incorrectly the e cable may be adjusted wrong,

Could be jar the starter with a hammer or metal rod the brushes could be sticking.

Djkzjxjcjcjxjdjjdjddjjdjdjjdjdjdjddjdj

Check to make sure your parking brake isn't slightly lifted up otherwise your brake fluid is low

hi not on changing the mechanical part the ecm and transponders already match as long as u dont have to change ecm no program is required ex if u have a four cyl and u installed a 6 cyl u need new ecm that wont match including the wiring and ecm that would have to be programed to match bcm body computer module danny

Code 123 is for a problem with the throttle position sensor circuit.

check all fuses first. all under dash and hood.also if car has immoblizer, make sure its light is not showingthat it is blocking starts, RTM read the op guide. its there.lost? get one they are free.LX model, great fact. non here ever do.. bravo. and 2.4L !!!id not buy toilet paper from the ZONE, end rant. my guess above is , random no Crank?answer, you got Zoned ! first off, the reason you failed is the total lack of diagnosis or books(FSM) showing you how it all works, working blind and toolless is a total shoot.my guess is they finally found it at the dealer.?if the alternator is dead, the battery goes dead and then the starter can never receive pull power to run. dead, starter (no crank) is the end play.when any car ( is this a A/T car?) if the starter is dead, the firstthing to do is wiggle the silly shift lever. see if the PRNLD switchis bad and KILLIING the start key line. (ST) if not?, i connect my $10 voltmeter to my battery,is there 12.6vdc there (that magic number means 100% charged)aka.SOC state of charge, if not the battery IS discharged (warm weather #) so I chargeit with ,yes, a battery charger and behold the engine starts.lets pretend it does not start, but does hold 10v cranking.yes, then battery is good.but say, the starter is dead, so i then hot wire the side connector on the starter, the solenoid small pin, (remove wire , Faston conn.)the starter works. and cranks engine (keys in pocket)yes, good starter (engine didnt start ,keys in pocket reason)no, the ZONE POS is dead. i have 10v to 12v to starter lugat all times. bad starter, (assumes engine not seized)now pretend power to starter 12v is ok and the key line works hot wired, i then know the key line is dead. (or intermittant)so check this line to the PRNL switch, on side of the slushpump A/T , it shows. i have no key line power, turning the ign, key. to start. so find the input pin to PRNL and it goes to 12v, when i key on, bingo, bad PRNL switch, lets way it fails input test.so the line to the key is bad, cut or the key switch it self is bad.in cars, anything can fail, using the correct schematic takes youto the point of failure, for the cost of $10 meter. do not buy zoned parts, go to anyone else, NAPA is best, or Honda, $$$ or , pepboys, or advanced auto. or O\'reallys(puns) never buy zone, they sell china noname parts. some of it is pure junk (IMO) and or horrid rebuilds by NON PRO.\'sbtw the car does have a starter relay, and was clicking, a hint thatthe key start position is ok.the PRNL actually enables the starter relay. the relay must close key ST position, and you must getsmall black-white wire to the starter (can sag to 11v)if not the relay is bad. or the power to the relay is weak.what i do is check all 4 wires on the relay, pin 2 and 4, 11v to 12v cranking, in the north pole , may be 10v.sag.no locaton stated or out door temps,, all important....pin 3 goes to ground voltage 0 to 0.5v only when cranking.pin 4 will read the same cranking as pin 2 and 4, if not the relay is bad. keep in mind the starter solenoid goes dead below 8v.if fact the solenoid will chatter at 8v. we never let it get there. ever.if in the north pole, we use a huge CCA rated battery, to make sure it starts down to -40f. , ok now the alternator, whew!the alt.key on, does the charge lamp glow? if not fix that now, I start the engine, the charge lamp must go out, , if not fix that next.the battery voltage,running is 13.3, to 15vdc..if not the alternator is out to lunch (DOA) or bad wires, bad grounds. or other reasons, (ask)now zoned 2:id bet dollars to donuts Zone cant check this new tech, fancy alternator, (it uses PCM (EFI brain) ) logic and controls.the PCM connects to the alt and partially controls the internalregulator of the ALT.the ALT has its own 100amp fuse under hood, (box)if blown , dead alt.The PCM runs the dash charge gauge via CAN communications .personally id never plug any Zoned part in to my PCM (ever price a new PCM>?)btw fuse 18 also kills the ALT. it kills the regulator dead. and many other things,the fsm shows all this.... read the FSM> Im looking now..... last , did you ever consider using a scan tool, and see of it reportserrors, it can report power loss on many newer cars, in fact , many places...... (that is why the say take it to honda to use the smarter scan tools, with factory codes....)last , your car has a ELD, in the cab fuse box.Electronic load detector, (can and will go bad)it detects higher loads and shifts the ALT, to more ouput power.(saves fuel , dig?) but one more part to fails as all do some day.if you need full docs, cheapgo to alldata.com it\'s all there, with full schematics.the above is a wild guess, if i had car , id see lots of other symptoms and follow a whole new path.the above is just to show some common tests, and paths.RECAP:1: stay out of the Zoned. (IMO) lowest price means nothing...2: get the FSM and see the truth. or alldata.com or michells3: get a meter and find the failure path.diagnosing this advanced, fuel saving alternator is not easyguessing is not going to work most the time.parting shot, there is no honda ELD schematic, and it measures the 100amp line to the battery for drain factors.if that part fails there, then the starter can fail.the ELD allows for the first time , that it can effect both charging and starting. the only path is to use a voltmeter to see the illegalvoltage drops. before working on any of this, (removing things) pull the negativebattery terminal lug. so you dont blow up the a battery at the first accidental short you cause, or cause a huge load dump.causing expensive PCM death. (etc)http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYVWmQE5tDk

When you have a situation where a vehicle like your Honda TRX 300 starts only when you release the start button or when using the kick-start, it's often indicative of an issue with the ignition switch or wiring. Here's a step-by-step troubleshooting guide you can follow:

1. Check the Ignition Switch: Sometimes, the ignition switch can malfunction, causing intermittent starting issues. Make sure it's functioning properly by checking for any loose connections or signs of damage.
2. Inspect the Wiring Harness: Over time, the wiring harness can degrade, leading to electrical issues. Look for any frayed wires, loose connections, or damaged insulation. Pay close attention to the wiring around the ignition system.
3. Test the Ignition Coil: The ignition coil generates the spark that ignites the fuel in the engine. Use a multimeter to test the resistance of the ignition coil. Refer to your vehicle's service manual for the specific resistance values. If the ignition coil is faulty, it may not provide a spark consistently.
4. Check the Spark Plug: A faulty spark plug can also cause intermittent starting issues. Remove the spark plug and inspect it for any signs of fouling, such as carbon buildup or damage to the electrodes. Replace the spark plug if necessary.
5. Inspect the Kill Switch: The kill switch is designed to shut off the engine by grounding the ignition system. If the kill switch is malfunctioning or stuck in the off position, it can prevent the engine from starting or cause intermittent starting issues.
6. Test the Starter Relay: The starter relay sends power to the starter motor when you press the start button. Use a multimeter to test the continuity of the starter relay. If it's faulty, replace it with a new one.
7. Check the Battery: A weak or faulty battery can cause starting issues. Test the battery voltage with a multimeter. It should read around 12 volts or higher. If the battery voltage is low, recharge or replace the battery.
8. Inspect the Starter Motor: If the starter motor is not engaging properly or is worn out, it can cause starting issues. Check the starter motor for any signs of damage or wear. You may need to remove it for a closer inspection.

By systematically checking these components, you should be able to diagnose and fix the starting issue with your Honda TRX 300. If you're uncomfortable performing these checks yourself, it's always a good idea to consult a professional mechanic for assistance.

That sounds like fuel issues. Check for fuel.

You need to have your car hooked to a scan tool that will tell you what the error is the computer is seeing.