20 Most Recent 2003 Nissan Sentra GXE Questions & Answers

Visit the on-line store, known as reliable-store, they have the repair manuals. I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem. 2003 Nissan Sentra

Follow top radiator hose to engine block, remove clamp, pull hose off, take bolts off replace thermostat reattach everything and top off with coolant.

There is a small plastic clip that holds it in. These break apart and let the rod slip out. Some parts stores carry a package of them, different sizes. Just a note. I have run into where they don't a certain car I'm working on. Had to go to the junk yard to get them. It's been a while, but dealers never sold them.

First pull the fuel filter and check that. There is a video that shows how to check pressure at the firewall. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8qweNkBp5All.

I am right now experiencing and dealing with the same problem. My car is a 2005 Nissan Sentra 1.8. I first changed the thermostat, but that is not necessary in many cases. Remove the radiator cap and wrap a paper clip around the center of it, just under where the flat piece of metal retains the rubber seal. (See image below.) This will allow water and air to escape the radiator and go into the reservoir. Put a hydraulic jack under the front of your car in the center (there is a factory 'nipple' there for just this use). Jack the front of your car up until the front tires just leave the ground (best done on hard, flat surface). This will allow air to travel up the motor & head, out through the hose and exit the top of the radiator and into the reservoir. Be sure the radiator is full of anti-freeze/coolant. NOT just water, because you will have to go through all this again before winter. Place the 'altered' cap on the radiator and start the car. Let the car run until the temp comes up to normal operating temperature. The coolant should now fill the reservoir. Now, turn the car off and do nothing else, for now. Wait until the motor is cool and the coolant in the reservoir should go back into the radiator. DO NOT allow the reservoir to get empty, or air will enter again and you will have to repeat all this again! If you keep enough coolant in the reservoir tank, the cooling motor will draw pure coolant/anti-freeze back, leaving the air out. When the motor is cool, be sure the coolant level in the reservoir is at the "Cold" or "Min" mark. Start the car again and watch the reservoir through the filler hole. You should begin to see air bubbles exiting into the tank. This is GOOD! Allow the motor to run at idle until you see no more air bubbles (probably 10 minutes or more). Add coolant as necessary as the level will probably drop a little as the engine's fan comes on, causing negative pressure in the motor/radiator. Make sure the reservoir coolant tank level is at "Hot" or Max" and turn the motor off again. After repeating this process two or three times, the heater will probably put out a "little" heat, but not a lot. If the heater begins producing max heat, your job is probably done. With the paper clip still in the radiator cap, put it out on the road, where you can get it up to speed (55 - 65 mph) and watch your temp gauge. At some point, the temp should drop down to normal and the heater work good again. The key is getting ALL the air out of the motor and head, without drawing the air back inside. When everything is good (hopefully running cool and heater working), allow the motor to cool down (COLD) and remove the paper clip from the radiator cap. Do this ONLY when the motor is COLD, or you could create another air pocket. Do not add coolant/anti-freeze to the radiator at this time (REALLY!). Just replace the cap and add fluid to the reservoir, if needed.I hope this helps you.Ron

If it runs fine and no codes are present. It's ok

Might be a stupid question but have you replaced the radiator cap?

do you have a temp gauge or light? make sure the radiator is full, if you have a gauge start the engine and let it idle for about 15 to 30 minutes and see how far the gauge will go up but if it almost reach the dangerous zone turn the AC on and see will the gauge move back down to normal zone if the gauge do move down that mean the cooling fan is working with the AC on but if the gauge do not go down with the AC on that mean the cooling fan is not working you can check the cooling fan by connecting the red wire to the + post on the battry and the black wire to - post on battry and if the fan work it is good then check the cooling fan relay and wiring.

Located in the passenger side. Under the dashboard

If the car has a chip key, the ignition may not recognize the key. Try another key or read the trouble code and the chip reader may not be working.

Firstly you need a wiring kit, you need to run a power wire from the battery to the amlifier with a fuse no more than 18 inches from the battery. You will then need to run an rca and trigger wire from the headunit to the amplifier. You then need a short power run to ground the amp that needs to have a secure attachment to the chassis

I'm going to assume that the motor is turning over and not firing-if this is the case you probable have a bad fuel pump-or clogged fuel filter-Denny

no car told, maker, model , year and engine optionno countryl told . wow,not told does the starter crank the engine over fast.that is first, or it will never start or run.cranking is first.check all fuses.?vast Nissan cars and trucks are sold all over earth and are not the same. if it does crank the crank shaft pulley fast then if gas enginecheck for spark. next.fuel tests are last.my car can be started 3 waysKey cranked.push started (in 2nd gear manual transmission)or gravity started off a hill.so as you can see there are 3 ways to start some cars.my guess is it cranks fast.fuses gooddash Gauge not on "E"nobody put diesel in the GASOLINE tank or water there from ECO pranks.spark fails doing the 100 year old now, classic test, using test spark plug>fueling dead but instant start spray works for 3 seconds.watch scotty Khttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzghttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg

This is not a model that we know in North America. Your local dealership will have one, or you can order online. This link should find sources near where you are. https://www.google.com/search?q=2000+Nissan+KA24DE+replacement+Vehicle+Speed+Sensor ..

I need code for this serial, same radio, Thanks PP2787HB 0091600

The firing order for the Nissan Elgrand equipped with the VG33E engine (1999 model) is 1-3-4-2, starting from the front. Nissan 3.3L (199 cu in) firing order - diagram & guide ' REREV

It could be numerous problems - consult a reputable shop - you need someone that knows what they are talking about to physically look at the car to solve the problem - will save you a lot of time and expense. ????

Probably the fan got blocked with some debris and caused it to draw too much power, that caused the fan controller to fail. Or, the fan controller has failed, has a bad connection etc. Check the cabin filter if it has one, for a blockage.

Hello, Malcolm. It seems like you are facing an issue with the alarm system of your Nissan Primera P12 from 2002. Based on the symptoms you've described, it does sound like there might be a fault with the alarm system or the central locking mechanism. Given that you have already tried a few troubleshooting steps such as disconnecting the battery and replacing the micro switches, it might be a good idea to further investigate the alarm system itself. Since the hazard lights are flashing without any audible alarm sound and the central locking is behaving inconsistently, there could be a fault in the alarm control unit or wiring. One possible cause could be a faulty alarm module or a loose connection in the wiring harness related to the alarm system. It's also worth checking the condition of the alarm siren to ensure it is functioning properly. Considering that the issue seems to have improved after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery, it's possible that there is an intermittent fault related to the power supply or a reset of the alarm system. If the problem persists, it might be best to consult with a professional mechanic or an auto electrician who can perform a more in-depth diagnostic test on the alarm system to pinpoint the exact cause of the issue. In the meantime, if you experience the hazard lights flashing again, try to document when and under what circumstances it occurs. This information can be helpful in diagnosing the problem more accurately. I hope this information helps, and I wish you the best of luck in resolving the issue with your Nissan Primera P12. Feel free to reach out if you need further assistance or have any more questions.