2008 Toyota Prius - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Might be. Take a look and measure the voltage going to the bulb at the point where it enters the cluster.

Retrieve the trouble codes with suitable scan tool to reach the trouble area.

Could be pebble in wheel hub. Not uncommon.

EVAP Toyota Lexus Systems Function and Diagnostics LDP VSV VPS P0441 p0440...

Check your hybrid drive coolant reservoir for coolant level. top off if needed using only Toyota coolant. Also common for the auxiliary water pump to fail. I think there is a recall free replacement. Check with your dealer if your car is included in recall.

the cruise control limits have been exceeded the rad speed drops going up hill, the transmission shifts , that exceeds the rpm so it drops back the gear s shift again and the cycle is repeated nothing really wrong , just incorrect driving practice good practice is to turn of the cruise control when going up hills that puts the control outside parameters for the operation

get the company original service and repair manual from the given link it will help you to fix the problem and also which part should be replaced with part number even you can do it your self http://toolsnyou.com/

what car is it.

Yours may be different but on my 2007 prius I found out that the rattling or clicking type noise came from the dash rubbing against another piece of plastic somewhere up by the windshield. I just lived with it.

You will need to remove the touch screen module and have it repaired or replaced, no other solution to this failure.

1. Start with the key out of the ignition, drivers door is open all others closed and drivers door is unlocked. 2. Perform these steps within 5 seconds. A. Insert the key into the ignition and Pull key out twice (Do NOT Turn) 3. Perform these steps within 40 seconds. A. Close then open the drivers door twice. B. Insert the key into the ignition(Do NOT Turn) Pull key out. 4. Perform these steps within 40 seconds. A. Close then open the drivers door twice. B. Insert the key into ignition and leave it in ignition. C. Close the drivers door. D. Turn the ignition to ON (Do NOT Start) then back to OFF. E. Remove the key from the ignition. 5. Within 3 seconds, the power door locks should lock then unlock automatically indicating successful entry into programming mode. Return to step 1 if the locks do not cycle at this point. 6. Perform these steps within 40 seconds. A. Press the lock and unlock buttons on the remtoe simutaneously for 1.5 seconds. B. Immediately after letting go of the lock and unlock buttons, Press the lock button by itself and hold for 2 seconds. Within 3 seconds, the door locks should lock and then unlock once indicating successful programming. If the door locks cycle twice, repeat steps A and B in step 6 as the remote was not accepted. C. Repeat steps A and B in step 6 for each new remote. 7. Open drivers door.

1 check the 12 volt battery i have replaced 3 car batteries on my 2001 Prius, purchased in 2001 15 years ago, that small battery is the primary battery for all onboard computers and must have 11 volts when starting, I noted a poor response when that battery gets week. 2 check your codes with a scan tool or take it to a shop who will read it for free. Note all codes and write them down codes that start with P3000 and up may indicate something wrong with the Hybird system, common codes like P3011 - P3019 indicates a faulty battery pack. once I got a P011 and P013 with the master warning was on. It was time to replace the Hybird HV battery. 188,500 miles hope this helps

It would need to have the engine running and have an exhaust leak to cause this, it is an unheard of problem in the Prius. Was the car parked and running when this happened?

Check the battery in it could be flat.

I just did this and it was a pain. There are several YouTube videos out there but nit real clear. First remove the cover to the fuse box. Then locate the light housing. The black plastic housing with fins needs to be turned counter clockwise about 3/4- 1 inch or so to pop off the housing. The problem is if the seals are dry it is almost impossible. Don't bang on the fins as they will break. I used wd40 along the top of the seals to penetrate the seals for about 20 min. Wipe up the excess as you don't want oil on any of the new bulbs. Mark the outside and inside of the housing with a scribe line to note your progress with the turn. Sometimes a vacuum will keep the housing from popping out. You can drill a very, very small hole in the housing to release the vacuum and them resell the hole with super glue. To remove the silver looking backing to the bulb you need to turn counter clockwise 1/8 turn and pull. There are two clips that are holding the bulb in place. Push down the side clips and move away from the housing to the outside. Once both clips are released it should rotate backward like a hinge away from the bulb. Replace the bulb with the new one and make sure the bulb is inserted with the long rod on the bottom. I just looked through the lens as I inserted the new bulb. Rotate the clip assembly forward a reattach the clips on each side and reattach the silver electrical connector and turn clockwise 1/8 turn to secure in place. Reattach housing and rotate clockwise to align scribe marks.

you have a bad wire somewhere , or something is freezing

You can replace and or fix it. Before you proceed make sure that there is no open or short circuit in the fuel gauge system.

Yes. You can replace the fuel Sender Gauge assembly.

Problem is resolved, 
I pulled & giggled a couple of fuses, found one fuse that had an extend fuse container was probably not quite seated right. Will notify dealer & replace several working fuses with new. rr