20 Most Recent 2003 Toyota ECHO - Page 2 Questions & Answers

try a new oil control valve it worked for me good luck

under the dash on the drivers side

Your selector door is stuck. These are operated 3 ways Vacuum actuator Line could be disconnected or crimped or actuator is bad Electric Bad connection, Cable cable clip unhooked from door Door is under dash passenger side Hope this helps Mike

If your thermostat is staying open then it won't get hot in the cab,if the heater is bad,it will leak and fog up the window,another cause could be the blend door is stuck close,or the valve is stuck close and antifreeze can;t circulate thru the heater core.When you first start your car does the thermometer on dash go up then cone down,if it is then thermostat is good.

Make sure there is no air in the system, take the radiator cap off and let the engine idle for half an hour, as the air comes out the coolant will go low, ad more coolant and then close the cap on also make sure the resevour bottle is at its mark.

please refer attached image

There are numerous things that will cause this problem. If the check engine light is on, have the codes checked to see if there is a problem the computer has found to cause this issue. Even without the check engine light on, there may be a code stored. You can also do a visual inspection under the hood for any disconnected hoses causing vacuum leaks. These are the best places to begin with diagnostics

replace the crank sensor

the bulb might be out on the service light in which case you will have to remove the cluster and replace the blub. a/c you will have to go to a shop to get looked at. most likely you have a leak somewhere in the system

Is there battery voltage at the vent valve solenoid ? Does the PCM turn it on ?

Pull up the diagnostic trouble codes. Please Check the following areas: 1. ECM power source circuit and ground circuit. 2. Crankshaft position sensor 3. Camshaft position sensor 4. Ignition system 5. ECM 6. VC output circuit More over check the ignition confirmation signal on number 2 wire while cranking the engine. Thank you for visiting Fixya.

Get bigger wattage bulbs fitted,or check that the dimmer switch is turned down low.

There are other problems if you could get it to autozone some how there are error codes that could be read from the ECU Are you getting fuel to the fuel rail? You could try some gas on the air filter and see if it would fire. That would confirm a fuel system problem.

There is a valve on one of the heater hoses that allows heated water to flow through the heater core when you select heat. With heat selected and car warmed up check to see if both of the hoses feel warm. If not then water is not flowing through heater core and valve may need replaced or heater core is stopped up.

http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f8038015e

It should stay on a few minutes than go off, does it go off after a while?

which one, accessories, or cam? oops cam is CHAIN> accessories drive belt:

1. make a drawing of routing.
2. remove tension via adjuster or tension-er per FSM
3. remove belt
4. attach new belt per #1
5. set tension to spec. stated in FSM. some are set real tight.
6. done.

wow toy shows route on parts page, nice note 2 belts on some engines http://www.oemtoyotapartsgroup.com/a/Toyota_2003_Echo1500CC-16-VALVE-DOHC-EFI--AUTOMATIC2-DOOR/_52014_5774050/V-belt/160867-1605-141460.html so when the mech opens hood, he looks for the tension method first;. (a real tensioner device or is it just the alternator slides. etc. this is first. they used 3 alternators that year. power steering pump adjuster a/C compressor adjuster. we look and see that in about, 1min flat. so do that first. there are some engines with stand alone tensioner devices some are automatic others are manual set. the FSM covers all this if serious about DIY, why not buy one or log into alldata.com for 15 bucks and read.

Your actuator is bad on the vent door, that switches from cool to hot. some units have several of these, some only have one