Hello,
I am having the same problem and cannot locate the fuse box, I already removed the coin drawer too. I was unable to see the diagram that you sent the other person with the same problem. Is there any way that you could send it to me a little bigger so that I can find my fuse box? Please help!! Thanks in advance.
SA
First you'll need to look under the left side dash, below the coin holder on the driver's side.(lay on your back)
Locate a narrow black plastic cover with fuse markings on it. It pops out with a flat screwdriver inserted in the left side slot. A pain to reach but one you get the hang of you'll be OK.
I suggest pair of long nose pliers (small one) to pull out the fuses.
Good luck.
Traynor67
Posted on Nov 12, 2008
my friend lost his cover box that had the diagram on the fuse box under the steering wheel, and i was hoping you had a picture of it. if you do could you send it to [email protected]. Thanks
Hi.. I sent the information that you request at your EMAIL.
Thank you for use fixya...
Posted on Oct 22, 2008
We have a 2003 Corolla, which we bought used a couple of years ago. It runs great, except that there seems to be a problem with the catalytic converter, causing the orange "check engine" light to remain perpetually on. We get it turned off periodically, and then it goes right back on.
Two questions:
1. Does having the light on for a prolonged period of time cause any damage to the car? We were told that it does interfere with regulation of gas use, and may cause the car to be less fuel efficient, but can it hurt the car, long-term, in any other way?
2. One mechanic suggested a cleaning process for the catalytic converter that will cost about 100$. Is there any chance that that could actually solve the problem?
thanks!
If you haven't replaced the O2 sensor that is causing your check engine light to come on by generating a fault code in the ECM, replace it first. Cleaning the Catalytic Converter is not the thing to do. Replacing the faulty sensor will pay for itself in the long run with the better fuel economy you will get.
Posted on Aug 14, 2009
Suddenly can't get my gas tank open because the interior fuel tank lever isn't operating on my 2003 Toyota Corolla CE. Any ideas (other than prying it open with a screwdriver) on how to get the tank door released?
check in the trunk for an emergency gas door release, also check in the ownersmanual and it will direct you where to find this.
Posted on Jan 05, 2010
what is the socket size for a Toyota Corolla axle nut?
It is a 30 mm 12 point socket not 6 point
Posted on Oct 09, 2012
2005 toyota corolla ac is not working
the ac clutch relay fails often. It is located in the fuse box next to the battery under the hood. it is labeled M/G CLT. You can buy one from rockauto.com for $11. You can test by swapping the relay in the fuse box with a similar one. also clean or replace the cabin air filter located behind the glove box.
Posted on Aug 25, 2010
My trunk wont close the latch is hitting it just wont close what should I do!
on the sides of the trunk there are rubber stops they screw in and out. Try screwing them in and this should fix your problem
Posted on Aug 22, 2010
hood latch will not close all the way
Hi,
Grab a flashlight and a long screwdriver and peer straight down into the hood latch. You should see the end of the hood cable, it's looped in to a metal bracket. Have a helper pull and let go the hood release cable from inside the car, this cable should move to the when pulled, and return when released.
If it doesn't return, the cable is stretched, or a spring is broken from the cable assembly. Here's a quick fix:
Facing the car and using the screwdriver, push the bracket to your left as far as you can. This resets the latch. Drop the hood from about 2-3 feet above the latch. You need to close it with a bit of speed or the release mechanism will just move. It might take a few times of moving the cable and dropping the hood to get it to latch.
Permanent fix is to replace the cable.
Posted on Mar 14, 2011
When I accelerate and reach 3000 RPM my car starts to lag and jerk. If I release the gas then slowly apply it again I can accelerate to roughly 80 MPH. The transmission shifts normally as long as I keep the RPM below 3K. I have put 93 octane and a fuel additive in the gas to eliminate the possibility of bad gas. I have run 2 tanks of gas since it started. It all started after I disconnected the battery to replace the light bulb on the drivers side head light. I have also disconnected the battery a second time and cleaned the contact and ensured they were reinstalled secure. My next thought was the throttle position sensor? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Have the fault codes read. Replace faulty items. Use only genuine items as replacement as non-genuine are not always compatible with the OEM fitted CPU units. This results in the fault codes not cancelling out You may need to have the cpu reset using a code reader tool from disconnecting the battery.
Posted on May 27, 2013
P1300 Igniter Circuit Malfunction / 14 P1305 Igniter No. 2 Circuit Malfunction / 15 P1310 Igniter No. 3 Circuit Malfunction /15 P1315 Igniter No. 4 Circuit Malfunction The 2nd time the light on it read p1305,p1310 & p1315 -ignitor Take to the garage but no solution. Any ideas?
If there is fault code in scanning , Start from easygoing, first check the wiring circuit voltage and the continuity, then the igniter, even then if the fault stays permanent it means the fault in the ecu.
Posted on May 10, 2015
1,816 questions posted
Usually answered in minutes!
1,231 Questions
1,236 Questions
819 Questions
767 Questions
792 Questions