Top 20 2001 Toyota Tundra Questions & Answers

No it is controlled by Idle Speed Control. It is usually mounted on throttle body.

what about the servo/solenoid or wiring for reverse

Yes, you need to turn the heater on HIGH heat and the blower on high.. this will allow all the coolant to flow through he heater core and hopefully purge the air out of the system.. DID you reverse flush the entire coolant system.. including the radiator and block,, WITH the hoses off of each.. THE air is sometimes hard to get out... let it sit in the driveway and get hot..(with the radiator cap off)..watch the coolant level and keep it full..when it starts to over flow.. put the cap back on..(MAKE SURE the reservoir is OVER FULL-topped off) and then shut the engine off.. wait until the engine is COLD before opening the rad. cap... the radiator should be full and have no air...CHECK and see how much coolant was sucked out of the reservoir...

To reset it lock and unlock the drivers door with the key.

If the radiator hose has collapsed like that it is time to replace it. You may as well replace the other hose also. .

Toyota Tundra Service Repair Manual 2000 2001 2002 2003 get your car fix right now

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CarGurusGet fast answers to your Toyota Tundra questions from experts in the CarGurus automotive ... My 2000 tundrasr5 4.7l 4x4 wont start! Thought wasn't getting fuel because tries to turn over but wont. ... Tundra Dead Battery, How Do I Open The Door Or Hood To Recharge? ... 4wd Hi Light Flashing, But Will Not Engage.

If the radiator or reservoir cap is on, the radiator is bad.

selection actuator is not fully engaging the dog gear in the transfer case check for full operation could be the teeth are worn tapered and are working back out of mesh

Check the blower motor resistor. If it is open/shorted, the fan will not work. May also be an issue with the control switch as well on the dash. I would suspect the resistor before any controller problems

If it has known good spark and fuel pressure try spraying carb cleaner in the throttle body while cranking engine to see if it will crank.

You may be in a pickle here. Most ignition cylinders require the key to turn for removal. If the key will not turn, there will usually have to be some damage created to the lock cylinder or housing to perform the replacement. You may end up replacing more than just the cylinder. I would have a shop perform this replacement to keep damage to a minimal

Try starting fluied if it start it's not getting gas becafull the can can catch fire if it doesn't start then u have n ign problem

The coolant temperature sensor signal to the computer determines fuel injection ratio. When it fails the car will be slow to start and a strong odor of gasoline. turn it off and it will start as normal. A failed sensor will also cause stall at idle speed and poor gas milage. the sensor is located near the top radiator hose connection at the thermostat housing.Use a 19 MM deep well socket.

Be sure your fuel filter and pump are working well.

doing that (reverse battery,) blows up very extensive electronics. fuse that look good can be in fact bad. A pro never guesses, we use a magic $8 tool (walfart) called volt meter to find them. every time. no guessing. the the mains are huge too bad you never told what exactly what you did., 1: removed battery plus cable first (wrong) and wrench hit steel>? 2: installed the battery backwards, boom" 3: removed the alternator , hot or starter (boom) know what you did ,tells me which fuse blew., for sure. the voltage will be on both sides of fuse. if fuses is good,some need key on to be hot. (rare exceptions) some cars have fuse links that look like wire are are NOT. you have no power to the radio ,now, the voltmeter is 0v there. so you back up from there but why why not start at the travesty area, the battery and check all PDC fuses first for 2 x hot each. need a ASE TRAINING video have it. fuse that look bad are fuses that look good,can in FACT be bad, gawd made is a meter and bingo we are all blessed with truth.

Well according to the owners manual, anything from low up to the last mark is normal. I think they mean anything from the low mark up half way is normal for idle. If the gauge stays near L at idle and while driving, you could have low oil pressure or a gauge problem. A mechanic would check pressure with a mechanical gauge. Normal for most engines is around 25-40 psi at idle and 30-60 psi when driving.

Rockauto, JC Whitney, on online.

Hey Who ever , I included a diagram of it WOW your going to want to dive into the deep end of an EMPTY pool , go to auto zone library (its all free) log in ,list your vehicle an go to repair guide and then vehicle repair then to heating & cooling look to left of page and click on heater core GOOD LUCK. Woody oh ya the dash has to come out

if you follow the 2 wires from the blower motor back along the wiring it goes to the resistor. it should be within about 8-12" of the blower motor.