2001 Toyota Echo - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues
My 2001 toyota echo is cutting out bad I just
Try replacing the spark plug wires if you did not change them when you did the plugs. It is very important that you pull one and only one spark plug wire at a time to keep them in the correct order or your car will misfire. You should change your fuel filter every 30k miles and they are usually about $20. Try the wires first and see what happens.
How to change the oil and oil filter on my echo
Toyota recommends 5W-30 and if you look closely you should see it printed on the oil filler cap itself. I have been changing my own oil like over 25 years and equally important if you want to keep your Toyota Echo engine in good running condition is hidden under a silver cowl that has like 10mm bolts you need to unfasten this metal cover on order to get a oil filter wrench on the actual oil filter. By the way, hopefully you are replacing it with a genuine Toyota oil filter as they are relatively inexpensive like $3 to $5 and removal counterclockwise is probably the most difficult part of an oil change, besides dumping the dirty oil into a container and cleanup to me is the filthiest part- but hey you saved like at least $10 or more by Doing It Yourself...
Hope the Above Info Helps!
We broke the lugs on our toyota echo how do we
Lugs?. I guess are the wheel studs(Im in australia)
First see if toyota sells the lugs separately, if yes you can use a punch to remove the last broken bit, the new ones are installed by packing with washers and using the wheel nut to pull them back into place.
If you cant buy lugs separately, you will need a new hub from the dismantlers
My name Tommy V, I have a 2001 Toyota Echo, the CK
The EVAP cannister is part of the emissions system. Excess exhaust runs thru it-purge flow is when it is released. Check all the vacuum lines going to it. I don't you will find a parts listing for a purge flow valve or vent or solenoid. Your light will probably come on again shortly.
Poor accelleration and vibration
can be anything from bad gas to vacuum leak to internal engine malfunction need t0o have car scanned most auto stores offer this service for free such as auto zone / advanced auto check ur local area the trouble code will help in fixing ur problem good luck
I purchased a 2001 toyoya echo-37000 miles-had sat
yes they have hydraulic lifters, what you could do first is buy some new oil, and some engine flush, and new oil filter, all easly done by a diy novice, try that first it could save you some money, but 200 is verry good deal.hope that helps
I recently purchased a used Toyota Echo 2001 with
The first thing that needs to be done when experiencing shaking at certain speeds is have the wheels balanced.
This is a simple procedure that any repair shop should be able to do for a reasonable price.
Try that and check back if the problem continues.
Good luck.
Random misfire suddenly ocured after disconecting battery
Hello,
Ensure the battery conection is good...clean the battery conection thouroghly and re-connect. If you have a volt/Ohm meter, the resistance between the post and the terminal, should be less than 5 Ohm's.
On another note; the POS battery terminal is also the input to the ECM...a bad connection could eventully cause a check engine light and can also cause a total intermittent electrical failure (symtoms would be a bump that could occur two or three times in a five mile trip and not be consistant; meaning the same trip the bump might happen seven times...or not at all),
Thanks for trying Fixya.com
Mike...
Break peddle to the floor no resistence behind it,
First of all, don't drive with the brakes this way...
Sounds like you've lost the hydraulic pressure in the brake system.
Check the following:
1. Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir to make sure it's full of brake fluid. If not, top it off with the recommend brake fluid.
2. Try the brake pedal again, with the car running in PARK, press a few times and see if the pedal "firms up".
3. If it does, press and hold the brake pedal with the motor still running. Look to see if the pedal slowly sinks to the floor or if it's a bit "mushy" or feels ok.
If the pedal sinks to the floor, you've got a major leak in the brake system. This could be from one of the wheel cylinders, from the disk brake caliper piston, a damage brake hose, brake line, a faulty master cylinder, power brake booster.
The best way to check is a visual inspection. Look around each wheel- look for fluid leaks, for signs of fluid where you park, on the axles, under the hood near the brake fluid reservoir, etc.
If after the fluid is topped off, you get a mushy pedal, I would suggest getting the brakes "bled". Bleeding the brakes simply means getting all the air out of the brake lines. (Air compresses where brake fluid won't- if the pedal is mushy it's got air.)
If you've not done brake work before, I highly recommend taking it to a local mechanic to help you out. You really want to KNOW that your brakes are going to be there when you need them. So if in doubt have a mechanic check it out.
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