20 Most Recent 2001 Toyota 4Runner Questions & Answers

For many of the 90's and 2000's Toyota various models - Camry, Tacoma, 4 Runners, Corolla, and some other models overheating is usually caused by temperature sensitive fan switch on the radiator not operating. Electric fan on the radiator should operate when temp above 200 degrees. Less often the control relay 90987-03003 is defective. Check if bubbling in the radiator smells like exhaust. That would indicate a blown head gasket. A jumper wire from your marker light positive to the lower contact in the fan control relay socket will operate your fan when parking lights are on. The larger vehicles with more powerful radiator fans will need a hefty jumper from a headlight positive to avoid overheating the lighting wiring. Make sure the engine is off and warmed up to check the radiator core with your hand to see if it is getting circulation. If it is all cold the thermostat might be stuck.

Disconnect the battery cables are wait a minute then reconnect the cables. You will reset the switch. I had this problem in my 4Runner and it solved the problem. Sometimes for month, sometimes for a day, sometimes for an hour. But its a cheap fix.

have it reset by a scanner quicker safer and costs nothi9ng at auto parts shops

You need to know if it IS misfiring. Does it shake at idle? Typically I recommend experienced techs deal with misfires. the code should say P030x, with the X being the number of the cylinder it believes is misfiring (No, computers arent always right about which cylinder. USUALLY, but not always.) Lets assume it says CYLINDER 3. (Only your scanner will tell you for sure, 3 is an example we are using for now). You could try disconnecting cylinder 3 ignition coil plug at idle. On a good cylinder that is NOT misfiring, you will hear and feel the engine run rougher and slow down when you unplug its coil or injector. Thats because it WAS contributing until you unplugged it. Your v6 engine idles at say 600rpm warm when its running good. If you unplug any 1 cylinder, youve lost 1/6 of the engine output (actually more due to dead weight drag from that cylinder, but not important for now). SO, if you find the cylinder it says is misfiring, and it loses rpm when unplugged, its probably doing SOMETHING or trying to. If you unplug it and zero change heard or felt, that cylinder is likely dead. Heres where it gets hard. Could be literally dozens of things that take some familiarity and experience to ID. bad spark, bad fuel mix, bad spark plug, oil fouling, low compression, leaky valves, blown headgasket, leaking intake, EGR leaking at idle, wrong weight of motor oil (some cars) and the list goes on. An experienced drivability tech can usually narrow it down or find it in 1 hour or less. If you are learning as you go, you could take many hours, and still miss things that trained eyes and ears wont. Start by figuring out which cylinder. If it idles smooth (No shake at idle, and if you clear code and start it and let it idle the light never comes back till you drive over 75 as you stated), then I strongly recommend a professional check it. If it idles rough and you know which cylinder, you can try taking out that coil and spark plug if you know how, moving them to another cylinder that isnt misfiring, then clear the code and drive it and see if the same code resets or a new code for the other cylinder sets. If the code is the same, you have deeper issues not worth explaining here. If the code moves to the new cylinder, then 1 or both of the 2 parts you changed are likely at fault. You can replace them an very likely fix the issue. Again, I strongly recommend professional help. But that may get you started.

Hello, it's most likely a bad front wheel bearing or an out of balance driveshaft, worn u-joints, if the vibration shakes the whole truck have the driveshaft looked at for bad u-joints

it is a common problem across the automatic vehicle range and can be diagnosed from the fault codes take it to an accredited auto transmission specialist shop for a proper diagnosis and repair /quote it is a relatively easy fix in a specialist shop

For what?

don't stop! lol sounds like battery could be the problem or is there enough fulid in the transmission?

Does not have a cabin air filter, even though a number of retailers sell filters they claim include this year model. Cabin Air Fliters began with the 4th Generation 4Runner (2003). You are a 3rd Gen.

All except the brakes sound like fuses failing, or wires breaking. A quick check of the fuse box should remedy those. What do you mean by "the brakes"? does the pedal go to the floor without stopping the truck? do the brake lights not come on? is the brake indicator on the dash on? need a little more to go on

Flashing too fast means that at least one exterior bulb isn't working. IF its an intermittent problem, once bulb could not be making connection at times. next time its flashing fast, stop the car and look to see which bulb isn't working. Replace that bulb, clean the socket at the same time

It is the top of your motor where your throttle tube connects to the engine..it covers all six cylinders to get air to them...basicly there are three main parts of an engine..the block that holds the Pistons,the intake manifold on top and the exaust manifold on tne sides to allow Pistons to exaust..I hope this helps..if your looking to change replace gaskets..faily major job..good luck..

Turn to defrost,the bottom bottom with a funny picture.

stock? or non stock? stock cars have like 2 to 6 radio options, all covered in the FSM "factory service manual" (helm.com) or at alldata.com, DIY for $15 access. if non stock visit your cars radio maker web site. get manual. free. same answer for all cars. or go to any car store, buy the radio harness connector kit. in kit is drawing that , bingo names each wire. and color. all cars made same answer. posted like 100 times now,... so... search.

Have you checked the wiring? Everybody does this, Throw on parts and throw away good parts, I did it way back when. You can spend the money for another ECM and then spend more to have it programmed. This could fix it, not say it wouldn't. But you already dumped a lot of money in to it. Invest in a volt/ohm meter, learn to use it. You can get good wiring schematics at , alldatadiy.com. And it gives you plenty of info to use the meter and understand the schematics.

Check your brake fluid level, you might be low or out. If you're out, you're probably going to have to bleed the braking system due to air in the lines. Neither of the options are safe so I wouldn't recommend driving. If you need to take it somewhere I would tow it. Brakes aren't the only thing that helps stop cars :)

your squeel sounds like a belt or a pully. first inspect yous belts for wear and cracks if they look ok try buying a can of belt dressing at your local auto parts store and applying to one belt at a time when idleing until belt stops squeeling.. IF your squeel remains try lubercating pullys with a spray luburacant. The brake problem sounds like roters are warped or rusted badly .the solution would be to have roters turned if turnable or replaced with new pads. if this was helpful please leave good feed back