1997 Toyota Corolla - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

There are a couple of fuses and a relay that deal with the blower motor. Below is a picture of the fuse panel layout (the fuse panel in the right side kick panel). The 2 red arrows are the locations of the 2 fuses I am talking about and the relay that is marked with the yellow arrow is the location of the blower motor relay. Hope this helps.....

If you had the struts done, you should have had an alignment done asap afterwards. If you didnt, that could be why the struts have gone bad already.

http://www.manualowl.com Hope this helps! Jimmy

check fuel pump fuse and relay also the fuel injection fuse and ecu fuse, if they are ok remove the back seat and you will see a cover remove the cover and check for voltage at the pump plug and ground, you hear the pump work if not need new pump

Yes, but there is no point to doing so. Just use ordinary oil and change that and the oil filter at the minimum intervals.

The temperature switch that turns the fan off and on is located at the bottom of the radiator and has an electrical connector on it.

there is no switch, theres a relay and a temperature sending unit. its either one of those or a bad connection causing the issue.(or the fan motor is burnt out) you can test by check to see if power is reaching the terminal with a test light or voltmeter.

For a 1997 go with 10w40 or 40 or even 20w50,or 10w30 or 30.As long as it get change you should have no problem.

P0125 indicates engine temperature too low to go into closed loop. The 1st thing I'd check is the thermostat.

if the line doesnt show with the timing light the crank is 180 D off tdc it can be a baer to change but should run fine any way.

the timing marks is just a line on the harmonic balancer and the other should be on the timing belts dust cover.

This is an engine/ carburation problem, it cant be anything else. The ECU may have a fault or a crank sensor is playing up or the fuel pump or an air flow meter or throttle switches. Take it to someone with engine diagnostic equipment not transmission or brakes.

either the drive belt is loose (squeal noise) or the oil is low (squeak or click noise) or the pump is worn (rattly), try refreshing the fluid and checking drive belt tension before replacing the more expensive components

so many things cause inefficiency. Ensure you have a good engine to start with ie good compression, not burning oil. ensure the spark plugs and ht leads are good, try some injector cleaner. have the car tuned or remapped at a qualified service station.

not quite sure what you want for an answer but a second hand or new replacement part seems in order here. please clarify if you need more help.

I am pretty sure you just lift the whole thing up and pull it out? let me know if you still cant remove it.

You have a fuel leak, its as simple as that you are going to have to trace it to its source. As it's only after starting it is likely to be forward of the fuel tank. check injector pipes and fuel filters etc.

It will be part of the differential section. Usually easier, quicker and cheaper to source a second gearbox. Gearbox's are full of gears believe it or not, but also spring parts etc. They are not for the amateur to overhaul and often require specialised tools.

Oil is unlikely to be leaking out of a spark plug, more likely leaking on to it. Many things can cause this including a damaged head or leaking cover gasket. If oil is truely leaking out of the spark plug then your engine is either very worn or your valve oil seals are shot

when you turn the key can you hear the fuel pump hum just before you start. Immobilisers and knock sensors will disable a fuel pump. It could just be a faulty pump. Some knock sensors can be reset others have to be changed.If you can here the fuel pump then look to your HT leads, distributor cap and plugs, in that order. It's most likely the HT leads