1997 Toyota Corolla - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You must have air in the brake lines. You will have to bleed the lines to get the air out. You will have to locate the bleed valve near each wheel. It is easier to take off the wheel so you can see everything. The brake line will have a drain screw near the place that the line goes into the brake caliper assembly. You will need a helper. Loosen the screw a bit then have your helper press the brake to the floor. Fluid and/or air will come out. While they hold it to the floor, tighten the screw so it won't such air back in when the brake peddle is released. With the brake pedal released, open the drain screw again and have the helper press the brake to the floor again. Repeat this until no more air comes out when the brake pedal is pressed. Then move to the next wheel and repeat. During the process make sure that the fluid in the master cylinder does not run out. The level will drop each time you bleed some of it from the bleed valve (or drain screw or whatever you want to call it). It helps to open the drain screw just enough to let a little fluid out. You won't waste as much that way. By time you get through with the last wheel the brake should not go to the floor anymore.

Hi two questions first. Is the pedal operating normally? Will the lever select gears with engine off? If so the clutch will need replacing.

If you are able to perform the visual inspection yourself, first apply the emergency brake and/or secure the wheels with a wheel chock then raise and secure the hood. Next, locate the transmission shift cable. (depending on the model of the Corolla it may be on either side of the engine compartment) Visually inspect the cable to ensure the cable hasn't been disconnected. Next, locate the transmission fluid dip-stick. Remove the level indicator from inside the tube to gain a visual of the fluid located at the bottom most portion of the indicator. The color/condition should be a burgundy/wine color. If there are no obvious differences in these two inspections have the vehicle taken in to the nearest service center to receive an in-depth transmission diagnosis regarding internal failure. (Only mention transmission diagnosis and symptoms to the repair shop) Best wishes.

The fastest way to get code is really going to toyota in service drive and they should do it for free.

That code is for the Throttle Position Sensor. It is bad. Replace it. That part would cause the abs to change modes too.

Oxygen sensors bad.

goto youtube you answer is prob there

You don't say what make of car but it's about the same for all. Your problem is the choke adjustment. The choke raises the idle when the car is cold and after warm up drops to normal. You are doing the chokes job when you hold the pedal down, once its warmed up the choke no longer functions till cold again. So check the choke and the high idle speed adjustment. Simple fix. Hope this helps mike

Fuel filter, spark plug wires if applicable, dirty injectors

low grade 87

Google an owners manual & look in there

I hope this gives you what you need

alternator is not charging battery

Hi, Try adding a bottle of oil stop leak.

pry the dome light cover off. remove and replace bulb

Probably a broken vacuum line. Listen for a sucking sound while running. Spray some carburetor cleaner in possible leak locations if u hear a change in the engine ur leak is in that area also spray near the intake manifold gasket areas and intake tube.

If the transmission has ever been low on fluid it could have ruined the differential. This will make a whining sound going down the road. You could have wheel bearings going out as well. You can check those by getting up to the speed in which the noise is clearly audible, then swerve the car back and forth. Obviously we're not trying to crash the vehicle so you don't have to be overly aggressive here, just back and forth. If the sound changes pitch or goes away then it's a wheel bearing.

it is a sealed unit it can only escape from a blown seal.

The rain probably caused a carbon track somewhere in the ignition secondary. Use a bright light and examine the coil packs. Your'e looking for a narrow track of carbon.

stalls, the engine. ! STalls is the best word) do all lamps in dash and all things electric die too????????? if the brake lamps are shorted this blows ITS fuse and will not stall any EFI. no way (wrong fuse, in slot , i lied) my guess is, you are losing 12vdc electrical power. (should be obvious) is the battery charged to 12.6vdc rested, (keys in pocket) or 10. is battery voltage 13.3 to 15vdc at all times running, if not BINGO. my post assumes the battery is dead and the brake lamps is like the last straw (3amps) that brock the camels back. or there is huge corrosion in a power fuse box feed. seen vast on old cars. have nice photos too. of the horrors of green death..