Top 20 1997 Toyota 4Runner Questions & Answers

Scan for DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes). Too many things it could be. What is the anti-theft light doing? We don't guess at replacing parts, we diagnose. Here are some guesses. https://www.google.com/search?q=1997+Toyota+4Runner+keeps+shutting+off ..

In the link https://www.google.com/search?q=1997+toyota+4runner+2.7.+Head+bolt+torque+sequence ..

sounds like you have a dead battery - does the starter solenoid click when you turn the ignition to the start position?

This might be a bearing or cv joint. Raise one wheel and see if you can wobble it.

Abs system must be scanned for trouble codes.

not sure if this link will help you out but have a look... How to replace the spark plug seals on 1997 toyota 4runner 6 cyl 4 wheel...

Be sure you have the crankshaft mark and cam mark are still in position. They do NOT move, EVER. If the were to move, it would throw the cam timing off, and THAT's not supposed to EVER happen. Running it with cam timing off will not work. It won't run. As you can well see. IF it's moving, there's something else wrong, like most likely the tensioner is malfunctioning and not keeping the belt tight.

you are missing a number or letter from the code when you post again include make , model, year and type of equipment

old timing belt stretched you only hand turn twice get number one cyl up on compression stroke both vales closed piston to top of stroke put the cam with the tooth out to align marks try again unless you are 180 deg out should be right

most likely it was a blocked fuel filter. get it plugged into a diagnostic to give you a code. or once is cleared by the computer it might not come back at all

It has a low oil sensor that will disable the ignition if more than a quart low . It could be a bad ignition switch, I just had to replace one on a Ford bronco that was doing the same thing. Also it is probably time for a fuel pump ( fuel starvation)

if all you heard is a click when turning your key and after a few try's it will crank then the starter contacts are worn out, you can replace them easy or just get a new not rebuild starter. one more thing put a volt meter on your battery and crank your engine if voltage drops below 10.5 v battery may be at fault or starter is drawing to much current.

To understand you the car runs but when you engage drive it doesn't move however if you move the selector from 2 wheel drive to 4 wheel drive it does move is that correct logically if that is the case the auto transmission is working but the drive to the rear wheels is not functioning That would point to a problem in the , diff connection ( broken rear axle ) by engaging 4 wheel drive you are moving by the front diff only

Recheck the wires at the starter you might have left one off or you could have shorted out the main circuit breaker.

front seal --remove harmonic balancer/ front pulley if it is a belt for the cam shafts set it on tdc no1 piston so that all the marks line up then remove the belt and the bottom pulley to get to the seal if it is a chain the seal will be after the balancer if it is a rear main seal, remove the transmission and flywheel best advice is to get a workshop manual for the vehicle and follow the directions and photos closely

Your evaporator core needs to be replaced .

you have to do it each door individually check on the switches. remove each door switch and test it using a multi tester.

You need a punch and hammer to back off the security bolts that hold the lock cylinder to the column. The heads of the bolts twist off at the factory leaving a smooth head. You have to back them out with a sharp point canter punch and a hammer.

Check the plugs and wires closely. Corrosion and a wire that is breaking under the coating cause high resistance.

the shell or the heater element that pulls out? we can not guess this. you must say better is the symtoms, element missing, dead? what?